20 Most Recent 1999 Daewoo Lanos - Page 9 Questions & Answers

hi.

say bye bye to the engine if you start it without removing the socket.
if you can see the socket, you may be able to remove it with a magnet.
if not, you will have to remove the sump to get it out.

there are far too many moving parts in the sump, moving at high speed.
if you leave the socket in there, it will get caught in something and could easily destroy the engine.

please go to google andsearch this word 1999 Daewoo Lanos temperature gauge and search by photo u will get the sensore that u have to change it
regard

Assuming that water pump is serviceable, a very good possibility that there is a blockage in the radiator. Also check that the radiator fans actually operates. Should be easy enough to check when the engine has heated up.

Remove the radio and obtain the radio serial number. send this number and your VIN number to daewoousa.com, and they will send back the 4 digit security code.

Dear,,

according to me there is some error with the alternator,

please get the repaired checked again for perfect callibration as it seems to be faulty..


thanx

try checking the throttle position sensor

follow this procedure.
Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Make sure your engine oil is full as per dip stick, if it is then you may have a faulty oil switch and they are sometimes located in awkard spots, your mechanic should do it in half hour (if it is the oil pressure switch)

No
Check with an auto parts store
or another web site

Hello, you will start from middle head bolts and work out to end bolts. Use a crisscross pattern. Set all bolts at 20 ft pounds then repeat to a final setting of 51 -54 ft pounds. Just be sure you do an "x" patern from middle bolts working out. Also be sure you coat th threads of each headbolt with some oil so they torque smooth and accurate.

Check the fuse first, The fuse must be in the main fuse box. The position and function of the fuses is normally marked on the inside of the fuse box cover and also in the owner's handbook. If you don't come right with these, work your way through the fuses looking for a blown one. To ease your search, the horn fuse it should be around 30 amps.

I've never been to London but the dealer should have touch up paint in your factory color. If the damaged areas are larger than 1/2 inch you might ask a body shop for an estimate. An auto detailer might offer a more elegant solution.