Top 10 1996 Jeep Cherokee Questions & Answers

i just had the same exact problems as zeeladys. It was the crank sensor shorting out and causing the short to shut down circuits in the pcm, volt gauge, fuel gauge, no spark. Locate the connector to the crank sensor, it runs beside the distributor, with the key to the on position unplug the connector and see if the gauges come back on. If so, simply replace the crank sensor and ur off and running

You can try simply wiggling the balancer and see if you get lucky. A few taps with a rubber mallet may convince it to come free. Worst case get the kit. You should not need to remove the radiator. Do make sure that you have the engine blocked so you don't lose your timing mark placement.

Hello and welcome to FixYa
The interior lights wont turn off cant because it can't get a conncetion definitely a headlight switch issue common problem for that make
Part # 05137535AA Headlight Switch Probably a dealer item very simple to change this yourself. Hope this gets you going.Please Rate Me. And you can always Ask Me.

try taking your tilt steering(steeringwheel) and check which setting its on if the tilt steering is all the way down click it up to the next setting and then try your low beams if that still doesn't work try it one more click up you might have a short or pinched wire in your wheel colum

Jeep Cherokee 1984-1998
Alternator - Removal & Installing

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the drive belt.
3. If necessary, remove any splash shielding for easier access to the alternator.

Fig. 1: For easiest access to the alternator assembly, first remove the splash shield mounting fasteners...



Fig. 2: ...then swing it out of the way for access to the alternator assembly



Fig. 3: View of the alternator electrical connections-(A) battery positive, (B) field terminals, (C) wire harness hold down, (D) ground terminal

4. Tag and disengage the alternator wiring.

It may be necessary to remove the alternator and mounting bracket from the vehicle as an assembly.



5. If equipped, remove the front alternator assembly mounting plate.



Fig. 4: Remove the six nuts and bolts that secure the front mounting plate to the alternator assembly



Fig. 5: Remove the front alternator assembly mounting plate from below the vehicle

6. Unfasten the alternator mounting and pivot bolts and remove the alternator.
7. If installing the original alternator assembly, push out the pivot bushing as illustrated.



Fig. 6: After removing the alternator assembly front mounting plate, remove the front engine-to-alternator bracket mounting stud



Fig. 7: Remove the two alternator bracket-to-engine mounting bolts



Fig. 8: Remove the alternator and mounting bracket assembly from the vehicle



Fig. 9: If re-installing, the alternator has a pivot bushing on the pivot arm that should be pushed out before installation



Fig. 10: Mount a C-clamp and 18mm socket on the alternator pivot bushing...



Fig. 11: ...then compress the C-clamp until it pushes the alternator pivot bushing out


To install:

8.Mount the alternator to the brackets with the nuts and bolts. Tighten the two mounting bolts and nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
9.If the alternator and mounting bracket were removed as an assembly, install the assembly into the vehicle.
10. If removed, install the front mounting plate.
11. Engage the alternator electrical connections.
12. If removed, install the splash shield.
13. Install the drive belt and attach the negative battery cable.


More details for testing and diagnostics you can revies:
- Section-8A-Electrical-95xj8a
- Section-8B-Battery-Starter-Generator-Service-95XJ8B

I hope help you whit this, good luck (remember rated this help).

Review this document:
- Section 8WL Wiring Diagrams General Information - 95XJ_8WL
- Section 8WR Wiring Diagrams - 95XJ_8WR

Good luck (remember rated this help).

Jeep Cherokee Limited Crank, No Start
Q. Hi! The Jeep has periods when it will not start for a couple days (cranks fine but won't fire), then it will mysteriously start again. A friend suggested that it may be the CPS - I checked it has 200 oM - when I'm cranking by hand it's little bit changing - it should be OK. But again, wouldn't this also effect the engine during those times that it was running?
This problem occurs during rainy and sunny weather so I don't think it's a moisture or water intrusion problem. Is there any part of the ignition system that only affects starting that could be causing this problem?

• 1989 Jeep Cherokee Limited
• 4.0 liter
• Automatic transmission
• 170,000 miles

I found some forum where some guy had the same:
"I am having the same or similar problem with my wifes 1990 Cherokee. I have found a place that tests the ICM. It may take a while to find a place in your area. I suggest you go in person and talk to the people in your better parts stores.
I have been unsuccessful so far in finding the fault. My ICM has been tested twice and passed both times. I have power to the ICM and the coil checks within parameters. This has been a very frustrating problem for me. I'm about ready to drive it off a cliff and call it a day. Good luck."
So my question is; what is the reason of that? Thanks for help...
Pawel
A. This was a widespread problem for Chrysler and they issued a couple of TSBs to address the problem. The first was:
Models:
1989 MJ & XJ Bodies
Subject:
4.0L No-Start, Hard Restart, or Engine Die-Out. Vehicles Equipped With Automatic Transmission Only.
Index:
DRIVEABILITY
Date: December 29, 1989 No.: 18-57-89 (C18-23-9) P-14 Body Code Legend:
MJ - COMANCHE (RWD, 4WD) XJ - CHEROKEE/WAGONEER (RWD, 4WD)
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some 1989 vehicles equipped with the 4.0L engine and automatic transmission may experience an engine no-start, hard restart, or an engine die-out. This condition may be caused by low signal strength from the crank position sensor due to a larger than desired distance to the flywheel sensing ring.
DIAGNOSIS:
Check to see if the vehicle has a slotted crank position sensor:

1. If the vehicle is equipped with a slotted crank position sensor (see Figure 1), check to see if the CPS grommet on the top of the transmission bell housing has been updated (see Figure 2). If the CPS grommet has not been updated, replace the CPS grommet per the Repair Procedure outlined below.

If the vehicle has a slotted crank position sensor and new CPS grommet, do not install a new sensor, but reinstall the slotted sensor that was on the vehicle and verify that it is good using procedures in the 1989 Jeep Service Manual 81-370-9045 on page 14-87.

1. If the vehicle does not have a slotted crank position sensor already installed, then proceed with the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:
1 Crank Position Sensor (slotted) P/N 83100067 1 Crank Position Sensor Grommet P/N 83100068 REPAIR PROCEDURE:

1. Turn the ignition switch to the "OFF" position.
2. Disconnect the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) from the engine harness.
3. Raise the vehicle using a lift.
4. Remove the old CPS and grommet.
5. Install the new CPS grommet.

NOTE: THE NEW CPS GROMMET MUST BE REPLACED SO THAT THE MAXIMUM SIGNAL OUTPUT CAN BE OBTAINED FROM THE NEW CRANK POSITION SENSOR.

1. Install the new Crank Position Sensor and loosely attach the retaining bolts.
2. Firmly press down on the slotted hole side of the CPS until it bottoms on the machined lip of the bellhousing. While holding the CPS down against the bellhousing, tighten the bolt on the slotted side of the CPS to 16 ft.lbs.
3. Tighten the remaining attaching bolt to 16 ft.lbs.

NOTE: MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR IS COMPLETELY BOTTOMED ON THE MACHINED LIP OF THE BELLHOUSING AND IS AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE FLYWHEEL SENSING RING WITHOUT CONTACTING IT.

1. Secure the lead of the CPS to the retaining clip on the bellhousing to prevent its contact with the exhaust manifold.
2. Lower the vehicle.
3. Connect the CPS to the engine harness.

If this repair has been made, or hasn't fixed the problem, the other TSB is 18-54-89 REVISION A recommending cleaning of the throttle body assembly, DIY: Cleaning Throttle Bodies, and replacement of the PCM.
PARTS REQUIRED:
1 ECU (Automatic Transmission) P/N 53007842 1 ECU (Manual Transmission) P/N 53007843 1 Mopar Choke and Linkage Cleaner P/N 4549619

The lid is missing

It is in the fuse/relay block under the hood, called the Power Distribution Center. A rectangular box-looking fuse and relay block with a cover held down by plastic clips. Underneath the cover should show the location of all the fuses and relays in the PDC.

This ASD relay gets the feed power to it from a 30 amp fuse that is also in the same center as the ASD relay. It is in fuse slot #20, so if the relay has no power to it on the power-in terminal, you can then check this 30 amp fuse. Both the fuse and that one terminal at the relay are "hot at all times"- a direct source to battery power.
So the key doesn't need to be on- use a test light or voltmeter to verify battery voltage both at the fuse terminal and then, with fuse plugged in, probe all terminals where the relay plugs in to find the one terminal that has voltage. One of them, the power feed, is hot at all times. If you ground a test light, you can light up the test light at the one terminal that must have power. It is the power side portion of the relay, feeding the ignition coil, the injectors, lots of other things too, all spliced off from that one power-out terminal of the asd relay. The other terminals in the relay are the control side or "coil side", what turns the relay on to send power out. The ignition switch and the engine computer together control the asd relay.

rtm? no symptoms so i must guess, ill say , cant shift. and is not park lock out causing that.
want to read the manual or me to you.'?
ill guess you.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

click 1996 to 2001
it replaces like all cables do
detach both ends and remove it. if clamps seen those too.
what matters is adjustment is needed.

some have 2 cables, one to gear box and one to ignition switch.
Chapter 21, page 150 states
REMOVAL
(1) Shift transmission into Park.
(2) Remove shift lever bezel and necessary console
parts for access to shift lever assembly.
(3) Disconnect cable at shift lever and feed cable
through dash panel opening to underside of vehicle.
(4) Raise vehicle.
(5) Disengage cable eyelet at transmission shift
lever and pull cable adjuster out of mounting
bracket. Then remove old cable from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Route cable through hole in dash panel. Fully
seat cable grommet into dash panel.
(2) Place the auto transmission manual shift control
lever in "Park" detent (rearmost) position and
rotate prop shaft to ensure transmission is in park.
(3) Connect shift cable to shifter mechanism by
snapping cable retaining ears into shifter bracket
and press cable end fitting onto lever ball stud.
(4) Place the floor shifter lever in park position.
Ensure that the pawl is seated within the confines of
the adjustment gauge clip.
(5) Snap the cable into the transmission bracket so
the retaining ears are engaged and connect cable end
fitting onto the manual control lever ball stud.
(6) Lock shift cable into position by pushing
upward on the adjusting lock button.
(7) Remove and discard the shift cable adjustment
gauge clip from the park gate of the shifter.

easy?