20 Most Recent 1996 Jeep Cherokee - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Code 172 means the fuel mix is too rich on bank one. If you have a 6 cyl engine there is only one bank of cylinders. The problem could be the O2 sensor or a leaking injector among other things.

Usually transmission fluid. Could be a faulty cooler inside the radiator.

define, on,, there are 2 on positions. one is called ignition on and the next further (spring loaded it is) is called, start or better CRANKING. which one.?

Have you scanned it for codes. The is a crank shaft sensor that could also be the problem. It will set a code. It is located (sitting in drivers seat) at 2:00 on the bell of the trans bolted to the motor. It is a hall effect switch that reads spaces on the flywheel. If you have had any trans work done they may have buggered up the spaces on the flywheel. Or it may be the sensor. Also have you done a good fuel injection cleaning and check each injector to see if it si functioning. Put a long screw drive one each one or a stethoscope if you have one and see if it is clicking regularly.

i may be wrong but that sensor is for the ac not for engine operation and at 113 if its not that hot then the sensor is bad but if its summer its ok,, your engine works with intake air temp

if it dont spin over try taking all the plugs out see if it spins free if so does water come out of any of the plug holes

Hello and welcome to FixYa
The interior lights wont turn off cant because it can't get a conncetion definitely a headlight switch issue common problem for that make
Part # 05137535AA Headlight Switch Probably a dealer item very simple to change this yourself. Hope this gets you going.Please Rate Me. And you can always Ask Me.

check for vacuum leaks,the throttle position sensor and the map sensor to see if they are working correctly.

i believe the camshaft sensor is internal in the distributor on this model and must be replaced as a complete distributor.also be sure to wiggle the connector at the throttle position sensor to make sure a bad wire is not taking down the entire 5 volt referrence circuit.

Jeep Cherokee Limited Crank, No Start
Q. Hi! The Jeep has periods when it will not start for a couple days (cranks fine but won't fire), then it will mysteriously start again. A friend suggested that it may be the CPS - I checked it has 200 oM - when I'm cranking by hand it's little bit changing - it should be OK. But again, wouldn't this also effect the engine during those times that it was running?
This problem occurs during rainy and sunny weather so I don't think it's a moisture or water intrusion problem. Is there any part of the ignition system that only affects starting that could be causing this problem?

• 1989 Jeep Cherokee Limited
• 4.0 liter
• Automatic transmission
• 170,000 miles

I found some forum where some guy had the same:
"I am having the same or similar problem with my wifes 1990 Cherokee. I have found a place that tests the ICM. It may take a while to find a place in your area. I suggest you go in person and talk to the people in your better parts stores.
I have been unsuccessful so far in finding the fault. My ICM has been tested twice and passed both times. I have power to the ICM and the coil checks within parameters. This has been a very frustrating problem for me. I'm about ready to drive it off a cliff and call it a day. Good luck."
So my question is; what is the reason of that? Thanks for help...
Pawel
A. This was a widespread problem for Chrysler and they issued a couple of TSBs to address the problem. The first was:
Models:
1989 MJ & XJ Bodies
Subject:
4.0L No-Start, Hard Restart, or Engine Die-Out. Vehicles Equipped With Automatic Transmission Only.
Index:
DRIVEABILITY
Date: December 29, 1989 No.: 18-57-89 (C18-23-9) P-14 Body Code Legend:
MJ - COMANCHE (RWD, 4WD) XJ - CHEROKEE/WAGONEER (RWD, 4WD)
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some 1989 vehicles equipped with the 4.0L engine and automatic transmission may experience an engine no-start, hard restart, or an engine die-out. This condition may be caused by low signal strength from the crank position sensor due to a larger than desired distance to the flywheel sensing ring.
DIAGNOSIS:
Check to see if the vehicle has a slotted crank position sensor:

1. If the vehicle is equipped with a slotted crank position sensor (see Figure 1), check to see if the CPS grommet on the top of the transmission bell housing has been updated (see Figure 2). If the CPS grommet has not been updated, replace the CPS grommet per the Repair Procedure outlined below.

If the vehicle has a slotted crank position sensor and new CPS grommet, do not install a new sensor, but reinstall the slotted sensor that was on the vehicle and verify that it is good using procedures in the 1989 Jeep Service Manual 81-370-9045 on page 14-87.

1. If the vehicle does not have a slotted crank position sensor already installed, then proceed with the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:
1 Crank Position Sensor (slotted) P/N 83100067 1 Crank Position Sensor Grommet P/N 83100068 REPAIR PROCEDURE:

1. Turn the ignition switch to the "OFF" position.
2. Disconnect the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) from the engine harness.
3. Raise the vehicle using a lift.
4. Remove the old CPS and grommet.
5. Install the new CPS grommet.

NOTE: THE NEW CPS GROMMET MUST BE REPLACED SO THAT THE MAXIMUM SIGNAL OUTPUT CAN BE OBTAINED FROM THE NEW CRANK POSITION SENSOR.

1. Install the new Crank Position Sensor and loosely attach the retaining bolts.
2. Firmly press down on the slotted hole side of the CPS until it bottoms on the machined lip of the bellhousing. While holding the CPS down against the bellhousing, tighten the bolt on the slotted side of the CPS to 16 ft.lbs.
3. Tighten the remaining attaching bolt to 16 ft.lbs.

NOTE: MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR IS COMPLETELY BOTTOMED ON THE MACHINED LIP OF THE BELLHOUSING AND IS AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE FLYWHEEL SENSING RING WITHOUT CONTACTING IT.

1. Secure the lead of the CPS to the retaining clip on the bellhousing to prevent its contact with the exhaust manifold.
2. Lower the vehicle.
3. Connect the CPS to the engine harness.

If this repair has been made, or hasn't fixed the problem, the other TSB is 18-54-89 REVISION A recommending cleaning of the throttle body assembly, DIY: Cleaning Throttle Bodies, and replacement of the PCM.
PARTS REQUIRED:
1 ECU (Automatic Transmission) P/N 53007842 1 ECU (Manual Transmission) P/N 53007843 1 Mopar Choke and Linkage Cleaner P/N 4549619

often times the engine needs to warm up to normal operating temperature. this varies from makes and models. if you cant wait that long, having it idle for approximately 5 - 10 minutes should at least lessen the acceleration problem, but the longer you wait the better it will be on the engine.

Can you adjust the timing on a distributor? If yes, then you don't have a crank sensor

Sounds like tracking does the other tyre have the same problem?

It could also be the bush or trackrod end it is possible that your rubber boot has split and has no more grease inside and you can hear metal against metal.

Its time to take it in tracking first then check the CV joint and all the rubbers for wear if so they need replacing

if its not a bad leak or a small seep a can of stop leak should solve your proublem

lower corner of the radiator, opposite corner of the lower radiator hose. its tucked in and pretty hard to see but its there. grab a flashlight and start lookin. Good luck!