ok, first ,, check all the bulbs again, and *** make sure that your hands never touch the actual bulb, these lights will turn the oils from your hands into cooking grease when it comes to these bulbs and cause them to blow out much to early on in their life span, , next,, Pull the light switch ( high beam switch towards you for a quick flash of the head light high beams,, if this doesn't make the high beams come on, your problem is going to be in the switch itself ( what your calling the high beam/turn signal lever) before going to that extreme though,, if you have a junk yard near you, go pull one of the relays off a junked vehicle, and stab it into your system one at a time, it could be something as simple as a relay heating up and disconnecting prematurely due to heat ,, if you don't have a junk yard that you can grab a relay,, here is a link that shows how to check them, But its time consuming http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8t25GjZ6i4&NR=1
If you have a thermometer you can do a poor mans check of your radiator. Go across the fins and record the readings if there is a big difference in readings you have at least a partial blockage and your radiator will need rebuilt.
Also check to make sure that your water pump is in good shape. A bad water pump cost me an engine on my 1995 Grand Cherokee.
When I installed a separate transmission cooler it not only solved problems with my transmission it also brought down the overall temperature my engine was running at.
Hi, I recommend you test the MAP sensor. Procedure is listed below. If the Jeep cuts out when accelerating, this is the usual problem. 2.5 liter engine MAP sensor:4.0 liter engine MAP sensor:
TESTING
See Figures 3 and 4
Fig. Fig. 3: Wiring harness connector terminal identifications for the MAP sensor harness side. Terminal 1 (left), terminal 3 (right)
Fig. Fig. 4: Performing a voltage test with a digital voltmeter on the harness side of the MAP sensor
Backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter at MAP sensor terminal Nos. 1 and 3.
With the key ON and engine off, the voltmeter reading should be approximately 5.0 volts.
If the voltage is not as specified, either the wiring to the MAP sensor or the PCM may be faulty. Correct any wiring or PCM faults before continuing test.
Backprobe with the high impotence voltmeter at MAP sensor terminal Nos. 1 and 2.
Start the vehicle and verify that the sensor voltage is 0.5-1.8 volts with the engine at a normal idling speed.
Verify that the sensor voltage reaches 3.9-4.8. volts at Wide Open Throttle (WOT).
If the sensor voltage is not as specified, check the sensor and the sensor vacuum source for a leak or a restriction. If no leaks or restrictions are found, the sensor may be faulty.
Removal & Installation
If the MAP sensor is mounted on the front of the throttle body, the throttle body must first be removed from the engine.
If the sensor is mounted on the side of the throttle body, the intake air tube must first be removed.
Remove the two sensor mounting screws and carefully pull the sensor away from the throttle body. Be careful not to lose the rubber L-shaped fitting that attaches the sensor to the throttle body.
To install:
Install rubber L-shaped fitting to the sensor.
Place the sensor into position being careful to guide the fitting onto the throttle body nipple.
Install the sensor mounting screws. Tighten the screws to 25 inch. lbs. (3 Nm).
Install the intake air tube or the throttle body as necessary.
this could be the crank position or cam position sensors. Also antitheft device if installed
If check engine light is on do a self test.
turn key off-on, off-on, off-on. the check engine light will blink out codes in pairs of numbers; 5-5 being the end of the test. Or the codes will display on a digital odometer. Do not start the car when doing the test- just turn key until the dash lights come on then one click back for "off".
Google your findings, if any, for possible solutions.
you have a sticky piston in the valve body instead. If the 1st gear solenoid module was at fault it will not even work in that gear at all even manually controlled
I would start by topping off the clutch fluid.If you have replaced clutch the fluid level will drop.There is a bleeder screw at the slave cylinder.Basically you can pump the pedal and hold it down while someone opens the bleeder.Close the bleeder when pressure is released and then release pedal and repeat procedure.Good Luck!
One of the switches must be bad or stuck in the lock or unlock position. Try functioning each switch several times in both directions to see if you can get it unstuck or maybe help isolate which switch it is.
First thing you need to do is check the battery and make sure it has at least 12volts in it. Next, make sure the cable connections are clean where they contact the battery terminals and that they are secure, bot at the battery and at the block and starter. If you find that the battery is low on charge, have it charged and load tested. Most often you will find your problem without going further than that. if not, ask and I'll give you more suggestions.
I would tend to agree its very possible you have a bad starter.You could remove it and have it tested.Most of your local auto parts stores do this for free.
