20 Most Recent 1994 Jeep Cherokee - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Make sure the switch isn't burned out. I have seen many switchs burn out literally which then takes the resistor out too.

you can clear codes with your obd,or you can unhook your battery for 5 min and hook it back up.I hope this helps you?

With the door open lift the end of the door up and down and check the play in the hinges. Also check for rust at the hinge area.

yes the long block is the same that is th eblock and head the manifolds and accessories will be different so just swap over everything from the old engine to the new

Did you overheat real bad ?
could be a blown HEAD GASKET I hope its not
3 things you need to run
GAS AIR AND SPARK

sounds like an oxygen sensor

Temp sensor is on or next to the thermostat housing on 4&inline 6 cyl. not sure on v6 but likely same. Sensor sends signal to computer, computer sends ground to relay, relay sends power to fan motor. Test fan motor by hot wiring it to the battery. If it does not run it's bad. You can test sensor with an ohmeter. Reading at the sensor (probing both pins) should be near 7,000 ohms cold and should drop to 1,000 or less when hot.It is easier to just buy and plug in another relay if you get to the point where you need to test it. Before testing, check any fuses in distribution center to make sure that the one for the fan is intact. If you do all of above and still cannot get the fan to go on, you will need to check all wiring and connectors for breaks and good connection. Last and most unlikely is that the computer has a problem (so rare it really isn't worth mentioning)

Bad starter or starter Solenoid. Grounded wire between the solenoid and battery or actually a bad battery. I've had batteries that were bad where everything worked until you went to start teh engine then it wouldn't turn over. There are 2 parts to the battery, 1 is voltage which runs the radio, windows, lights and such the other is Amperage which is needed to get the started to work. You can have good voltage but no amperage due to a dead cell. Disconnect the Negative battery terminal, connect jumper cables to a goo running vehicle, connect the positive cable to teh positive terminal and the negative clamp to the negative cable, this take your battery out of the loop, then try and start the vehicle. If the vehicle starts it's your battery if it doesn't then it is most likely your starter or Solenoid.

24 should be a throttle position sensor code. There are component level tests you can do to verify its condition. Part is about $45. Are you showing any symptoms or are you just code checking?

you will have to take the door panel off from inside the car, which might involve removing the seat as well. after that, your should be able to reach the linkage that releases the from the latch and operate it manually by pulling the lever linked to the actual mechanism rather than the handle inside or the door knob outside. I would also recommend spraying the whole mechanism and linkage with PB Blaster or some other penetrating catalyst to help free any parts siezed by corrosion.

Error code 21 is oxygen sensor or circuit.Check the oxygen sensor first and then the circuit. The sensor is on the exhaust manifold or on the exhaust downpipe.Its purpose is to measure air/fuel ratios and adjust the fuel that the injectors deliver.Above 80000 miles is the sched. to replace this sensor. Hope this helps

could have a bad water pump or one of the pulleys or a bad wheel bearing should take to shop and let them check it out they should be able to tell u what it is

Check the end joints, the cardan joint and the slip joint to find what's loose.

HI. I THINK THEY RUN ON A RELAY. JIMBO

clean the cables, if still not working, every time you finished using the car disconnected the negative cable from the battery. and then connected it back when about to use it again.

Have your wiper switch checked

I know your not going to want to hear this but your engine is at stake here. Anytime the gauge starts fluctuating it means something is affecting the oil pressure. Even if the oil was low it should still be steady.
Now three things could be going on with the worst being you have crankshaft bearings wearing out but i don't think this is your problem.
Its possible your oil pressure sender unit is bad or the wire to it has an issue, loose or dirty. Its also possible the oil pump is bad. Not knowing the history of your oil services its also possible you have engine sludge. By any chance was an additive used to flush your engine. This can loosen up a chunk of slugde and partially or even completely block an oil passage.
My advise to you is go get it checked out. They will have to monitor ail pressure with a seperate gauge to determine whats at fault.

it could be anything realy!
get it checked again where you had it done last time as timing may have slipped its not uncomman!
a compression check would be a good idea!
as it may be low on a coupleof cylinders!
that will male it shake untill you get the revs up then its not as noticable