20 Most Recent 1994 Jeep Cherokee - Page 7 Questions & Answers

You'll need a special tool called a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel. Then the ignition switch is screwed in by tamper proof torx. You'll need tamper proof torx bit to remove the screws that hold the ignition switch on.

i hate to say it but it's usually the little things we overlook. back to basics. make sure the trans fluid level is correct and check to see the condition. make sure it doesnt smell burned and that it's a nice clear red color. did you flush the trans cooler lines out? the bad fluid from the old trans may have contaminated the new trans. then make sure the linkage is correctly adjusted. otherwise, it seems like you may have gotten a bad transmission.

yes but use the fly wheel off the original motor also use original injectors and wiring harness. you may have to change pulleys etc.

the pressure will vary, You'll be approx 20 psi at an idle and 45 psi @ 2500 rpm's. If the car has a lot of miles, you can expect slightly different readings. As long as your reading, I would not worry about it. Also when the engine is cold, you'll always have a higher reading until the temp rises to normal.

well i wish i could say...yes............but i built over 8000 trannys in my life and what you have is internal leakage in the clutch/drum's /packs/servo's in essense the tranny need some TLC and a major rebuild sorry

Check for continuity between the relay terminal and the pump. You may have a bad connection between the wire and the connector itself at either end...that is more common than a broken wire. Some also use a ballast resistor in the pump circuit which should be on the drivers side fender in the engine bay back near the master cylinder.

I would check the ignition switch,it is most likely the problem,the electrical part of the ignition switch,not the key cylinder,it is most likely coming apart on the inside of the switch.

Pull the rear wheels and drums off and inspect the shoes. From your brief description it sounds like one or more of your brake shoes is out of proper position or contaminated with some foreign substance.

If the Engine CRANKS in Park but will not start and ALSO STALLS when Put into PARK You Should Look Very Intensly for a Vacuum Leak-- Also If Service Engine Light is Iluminated You MUST Get the Trouble Codes as this CAN Be DIRECTLY Related to the Problem.

Likely the neutral safety switch has worn out. It is opposite the linkage connection that is on the drivers side, being located on the passenger side of the transmission. The switch is expensive (around $200) but you can usually find one cheaper in a scrapyard or even carefully disassemble yours and clean it up. It will need to be adjusted once finished. You can find adjustment procedure in any chilton or haynes manual. (I'm assuming you have a AW4 trans and not a Chrysler unit)

u should start by checking the bulbs, sometimes it is hard to tell your low beam bulbs are bad until they are both out, if they are both good try wiggling the headlight dimmer switch between high and low beam functions to see if the switch is just worn out. if neither of these presents the problem then u may have an electrical issue that should be diagnosed by a technician

Yes you can drive your jeep on the highway, no you do not have shift on the fly capabilities.Vehicle must be stopped to engage four wheel drive, otherwise you will grenade your transfer case, and you will not like the repair bill that comes with that....at all.Any other questions get back to me...I'M HERE TO HELP!!!

just check all the fuses, could possably be the stork switch.

Hard to say exactly with out checking myself;

Wrong (to low amps) battery, poor condition of battery clamps, loose cables going from battery to starter assembly, battery installed in reverse polarity. Perhaps the NEW battery need to be charged ( storing a battery on concrete (cement) slab will cause a drainage of the battery and it doesnt take long)

Review this
- XJ Service Manual Section-8WL-Wiring-Diagrams-General-Information
- XJ Service manual Section-8WR-Wiring-Diagrams

Hope helped (remember rated this help).

CHANGE THE ELECTRIC COIL , I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AND OR GET A COMPLETE TUNE-UP

buy a chiltons manual from autozone or oreillys has every diagram for the car

there are a couple of thing's that cause this, if u have DRL (daytime running lights) (Canadian models) the DRL module may be defective, if the truck did not come with DRL's then the problem is in the dimmer switch, the dimmer is a part of the turn signal switch and called the "Mulitifunction Switch", the DRL relay module is located above and behind the fuse box if u have one, the turn signal switch is easily replaced by just removing the **** shell plastic covers on the steering column, the screws that hold it on are recessed into the bottom cover, the switch is then easily removed. here is the part number of the switch. This part number is for tilt wheel models.
ACDELCO Part # C6224 {#88923894}
SWITCH,HDLP & HDLP DIMR & PARK & T/SIG & Windshield Wiper & Windshield Washer with TILT WHEEL

turd ****

replace head gasket its letting steam bind up the motor untill it vools down