20 Most Recent 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Page 10 Questions & Answers

Use ATF+4

Do not use Dexron or Mercon

have u got relays if so try checking them they might have co me loose

You should be able to get one on cd on the internet I got ones for vitaras montereys troopers and terranos so worth a try.

check oil level when hot with engine running and shift in reverse

if you've got a few $$ to risk ,try some synthetic oil with new filter ...it often work good for these kind of noise as long as it is not a loud knoking nois ...if it is only a fast clic clic nois it will probably work!

go online to haynes automotive manual website and you will most likely see the complete diagram there. if not go to your local library and you can get the info there.

it will have some oil in it /but if you are not useing it for a/c you do not need any in it .it will free wheel.

Wow. You're going to need to buy a repair manual, and find some good Jeep forums online.

Depends on which engine you have. If it is a 4.0L it should change out the same. This one must be removed from the bottom of the vehicle. Pay particular attention to the belt loosening technique in the maual which adjusts with the power steering pump.

If it leaks 134 it will leak R-12 .I have changed hundreds of systems over to 134 without any complaints. Don't let the 94% eff rating of 134a scare you because that does not mean that your ac system will lose 6% cooling ability .A large class 8 truck or maybe a high roof van black on black and poor insulation might tax the system in the 90% range on 100 degree days but most systems never get close .
134a high side pressure will be about 18% higher so most systems you need to change the high side cutout.The R-12 electric fan switch will be ok just make sure it is engageing the fan when the pressure comes up.You must check the condensor in front of radiator to make sure air flows easily thru it.On systems where the hoses screw on each side of the dryer I replace the dryer .Drain oil from compressor and replace with 134a oil .Replace that bad valve core (with ac valve core not a tire valve) Now very very important vaccum the system and if no loss of vaccum in 20 min charge with manufactors recomended amount of oil and freon.If a system is low on freon (cycling in & out on low pressure switch) you can add a pound of charge with those small cans of same type freon no problem but when there is a leak and the charge has been lost or changing freon types you must pull a vaccum to properlly charge the system. If you just charge R-12 or 134a your system will have traped non -condensables and a large drop in cooling ability. Hope this helps. Harold

It means you probably need pad and/or shoes done..

youll have to take the sleeve from around the steering column the switch is held in place by a little button you will have to look at the knew switch to know what youre looking for you will also need the key in the ignition you can do it.

if there arent any screws visible then its probably snapped in place all you have to do is pull firmly on the outer most edge and it should release you may need to use a flat head screwdriver.

There are many possibilities. Look from the resevoir and there will be several hoses. Just check those for cracks, signs of wear or breakage. Its a matter of check all the hoses til you find the one with the crack. Also if the hoses are too old they will get dry and crack and will leak that way too. Hope it helps!

I've had this same problem. First of all, replace your radiator (or coolant recovery tank) cap. If this doesn't fix the problem, check your hoses for leaks that could be letting air into the cooling system.

If the coolant is eruption is violent upon shutting off the engine, check your oil to see if you've got a chocolate milk like look to it. If the engine is completely cold, unthread the oil drain plug just a little until fluid starts to escape. It may be coolant that comes out, or it may be oil. Finally, rent a Block Tester from Autozone (It's $25.00 refundable upon return of the tester) and some Block Test Fluid ($8.99). Run the engine until on the high side of operational temperature with the radiator (or coolant recovery tank) cap removed. Insert the rubber cone into the filler neck and place the aspirator (bulb) on top of the tester. Squeeze repeatedly (yet slowly) for two minutes. This will pull air from the coolant into the tester and eventually the fluid will either remain blue, turn green, or turn yellow. Depending on the fluid, it will turn green or yellow. If it turns either color, you have emissions/combustion gases in your coolant. Unplug one cylinder head's spark plugs and repeat the test to see if that cylinder head is the problem, replug and repeat the test with the other cylinder head. This will tell you which side of the engine is leaking the gases into your coolant.

Positive (green or yellow fluid) test means that your head gasket is blown, or you have a cracked/warped cylinder head or engine block.

NO i use 20w50 in all my cars and trucks with over 75'000 miles. its just thicker. look for somethingt else. tune up air filter fuel filter last but not lease plug wires

may not have any thing to do with what u replaced ,,,unless the harmonic balance has relutor on back side ,and wassnt lined up with crank shaft sensor/and it would have damaged harmonic reluctor and sensor

take the panel off once you can see the crank you will have to undo the window from the guide only a few bolts or rivets for that.the crank should be bolted on the door take the screws out pull it through the opening and reverse the process to put it back in. hope this helps

Check the fuel injectors and rails for clogging or maybe a seized up ECU. my only other thought is that your throttle position sensor may be shot.

is it diesel engine?if so chech ur heater plugs