1985 AMC American Motors Eagle - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Thank you for this tip. There are a lot of 4x4 that use vacuum to engage the front drive.

you can easily the repair and service manual from the given link http://toolsnyou.com/

Go to the AMC Eagle Den and sign up for the forum, then ask this question there. Great place if you want to keep your Eagle up! Welcome to the AMC Eagle Den

Replace the valve cover gasket and use black RTV to seal it.

Replace the jets in the carburetor with 2 sizes larger jets and the hesitation will disappear. FIRST though, look in the carb and open the throttle with your hand at the same time to see if fuel is being squirted into the venturi's, if not then you need to replace or adjust the squirter. This is what causes hesitation on acceleration.

go to alldata.com thay have most everything,as long as the maker had it out there to get

I could help you if you could add some images!

The EGR valve is unserviceable which causes a bad or insufficient fuel control for em-missions......Hope this helps you out........EGR valves are not very expensive.

remove the air cleaner and get a can of carbi clean and spray a small amount into the carbi while the engine is off then start the engine and run it a bit, you can also spray a small amount of cleaner into it when it is running but you will wnat to be carfull not to cause a fire, if you are un shoure it may be best to take it to a mechanic

Low fluid level, or just plain worn out, it is a 32 yr old car....

Loosen the top bolt and use a bar to pry outwards on the alternator till it moves to it's tightest spot to tighten the belt. Then tighten the top bolt while holding the alternator out with the bar. You're done.

Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid, leave the cap off, open bleeder on left front wheel cylinder till fluid begins to come out and close the bleeder. Go to the right front and bleed it, this is gravity bleeding and works fine without a helper to pump the pedal, when fluid starts to come out close bleeder. Now go to the right rear and bleed it the same way. Then lastly, the left rear. Bleed it and you should be done and with a good pedal. If you don't have good pedal, you'll need someone to pump and hold the brake down as you bleed each one from the closest to master cylinder around to the farthest from it in sequence. It's the only way to bleed brakes.

Yeah, You're right on the position of the solenoid, and you hook the side large post to the hot post of the battery with large cable, and the large post on other side of solenoid to the starter with the large cable. The single wire that comes from the starter switch goes on the small post to the front, and if theres a second small post, it doesn't have to nave a wire on it, but normally it is a power cutout to other things that are not needed to be powered when cranking. Use a test light and have someone crank the engine over to test and see for sure which wire is the one coming from the switch before you connect it.

Right turn is green, left turn is yellow, running lights is brown. This is same on all vehicles in the USA.

If starter is good still, Check the battery connections on the battery and at starter. Clean then shiney. Check also the solenoid wire connection from the switch at the starter solenoid. Be sure it's clean and tight also. Then just be sure the battery is up to par.

d/s under dash area

P/S on the motor 232 or a 258

Well you going to need to lift the car and then disconnect the cable from the transmission on the driver side and then inside remove the shifter cover and disconnected from there and reverse the process

I'm presuming that your battery drains over time. If it is a short, the most probable location will be the cig-lighter, if it is not switched out. Some cars leave power to the lighter, even when the ignition is off. Carbon build-up in the lighter can conduct, causing a short.The alternator can also be at fault if it has a defective diode.

any auto parts store should have that light for you!!