Top 10 1999 Saab 9-5 Questions & Answers

Output From Control Module Low

This sometimes can also be related to the internal batteries in the alarm ECU or alarm siren module going bad. If your handy the internal batteries can be replaced without buying a new replacement unit. Otherwise, the entire module must be replaced ($$$). Lastly, you can have a Saab indy or dealer disarm the theft alarm on the vehicle. You retain your keyless operation, but the alarm is not active. This is done in the programming and adjustment menus in the TWICE unit with the Saab Tech 2 computer.
Justin Duthie
Strictly Saab
Melbourne, FL

In order to disarm the alarm system, you need a tech 2 computer (usually Saab indy repair shops or Saab dealers only will have this very expensive computer and the flash cards needed) in order to change the programming in the TWICE theft alarm computer so the vehicle thinks it is not equipped with an alarm system. Two other more expensive options are replacing the entire module, or cutting the module open and replacing the internal batteries.
Justin Duthie
Strictly Saab
Melbourne, FL

One way to check for a blown head gasket, is to simply smell the coolant reservoir. Pop the cap, and see if it smells like raw gas. Every headgasket, I've diagnosed has had this smell, even if the oil is not contaminated. Another way is to hook up a coolant pressure tester, and run the vehicle for 15-20 mins or so. If the head gasket is blown, the pressure will exceed 15 psi. sometimes as high as 25 psi. If there is oil in the coolant overflow tank, the head is cracked, about 90% of the time.
I'm working on a 03 Saab 95 2.3l t. This vehicle smokes on initial start up, then the smoke disapates, and the vehicle is fine. Another mechanic diagnosed it as bad valve seals. I disconnected the pcv system, and the vehicle no longer smokes. If the valve seals have gone bad, the vehicle will smoke on acceleration. Also if the turbo seals are leaking it will smoke more heavily on acceleration.

Sounds like car is in limp home mode which needs reseting ,which may indicate you need a new Di Rail, or throttle body. Is engine management light on all the time if so Needs reseting. Hope this helps.

Strange headlamp problems on Saabs can often be attributed to a failing Headlamp relay. Here are a few common situations:
Issue1 - Headlamp switch will work backwards: Turn on the switch and theheadlights go off and turn off the switch and the headlights will goon.
Issue 2 - High beams will disappear. You will have nohighbeams. Be sure to check the headlight bulbs PRIOR to ordering therelay. Remember however that it is possible for both high beams burn out at the same time
Issue3 - High beams will not work only the low beams will.
Issue 4 - A single bulb setting (low or high) on either side will not work and bulb replacement will fix it.
You can sometimesfix these issues by removing the relay, taking off the cover andresoldering the connections on the relay bottom. To perform this repair, go to my illustrated tutorial at customsaab.com.
In some cases youwill have to replace the relay to effect a long term cure. The aftermarket replacement can be had at Eeuroparts.com for about $60.00:
Name: Bulb Check Relay
Part Code: 4109070A
Brand:
Description: Bulb check relay for any 9000 92-98, 900 94-98, 9-3 99-03, 9-5 all.

KAE (Kaehler) made in Germany.
Price: $59.90

Hi, I have done this and it is not too bad, but will take you about 4 hours if you are good, and longer if you have not done much mechanics.

The trick is to find a reasonably priced turbo, check ebay. There is a dude on there that just does rebuilt turbos. Very good, got mine for $

I have been reading up on turbo replacement procedure and I have found this list: First, there are a couple of questions that I have about the list:

2 air openings, pretty easy to figure out
2 exhaust openings, pretty easy to figure out
3 round openings in the center, all banjo bolts?
1 round / two bolt opening in the center.
1 Hose fitting off of the waste-gate
1 Hose fitting off of the air side of the turbo.

STEP 1 Open the expansion tank cap to release the system pressure.
STEP 2 Raise the car & Remove the lower front cover under the car
STEP 3 Drain off the coolant & Remove the turbo brackets
STEP 4 Loosen the return fitting and the pipe from the turbo to the block
STEP 5 Loosen the oil pipe between the filter adapter and the turbo
STEP 6 Lower the car to the floor & Remove the bypass valve & Unplug the connector from the control valve
STEP 7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector & Loosen the hoses to the turbo
STEP 8 Remove the crankcase banjo bolt from the intake manifold and unscrew the bolt from the cam cover
STEP 9 Move the pipe and wiring aside & Remove the engine lifting eye
STEP 10 Remove the mass air flow sensor and air hose
STEP 11 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield by removing the nut and two clips from underneath
STEP 12 Undo the intake manifold clamp at the turbo & remove the intake
STEP 13 Disconnect the hose clip on the hose between the intercooler & turbo & plug it to keep something from falling in it
STEP 14 Loosen the front exhaust system from the turbo & lower the front exhaust system away from the turbo (DO NOT BEND -THE FLEX HOSE)
STEP 15 Remove the oil pipe from the oil filter adapter & grab the copper washers
STEP 16 Loosen the coolant pipe by the turbo & grab the copper washers & loosen the coolant pipe bolt
STEP 17 Remove the coolant return pipe from the cylinder head & pressure sensor bracket. Once again, Grab the copper washers
STEP 18 Undo the coolant return pipe bolt by the turbo
STEP 19 Undo the nuts securing the turbo to the exhaust manifold. (spray the nuts with WD40)
STEP 20 Install in Reverse


Just did this for the first time. Here are a few hints that may help others.

1) PB BLASTER is your friend. Remove the exhaust top front heat shield and hit exhaust nuts with PB Blaster as soon as you start the job, or night before.

2) Make sure that you have 12mm closed end wrench with AND without ratchet. Also a 1/2 size 12mm socket if you can find / make. These will help.

3) You don't have to remove the oil filter, but there one bolt that it would be nice for. I did not and did manage to get the job done.

4) Take you time. More of finding the right tool combination for each bolt.

5) Two banjo bolts on the turbo were really on there. Needed to use a mini-acetylene torch to eat up.

6) Have extracting sockets and bits ready just in case there are issues getting bolts / nuts off.

Turbo had quite a bit of end-play, but spun fine. Classic symptoms, blue smoke at start up and from time to time when driving. It was also making a bit of noise at idle.

jeffo2 ort11


Also, should get new copper washers. I did not have I have some micro leaks from time to time but nothing bad.

Check your fuses. if all is well, more than likely it is yor fan motor

P 1181 code- long fuel trim max value air fuel lean.possible causes fuel filter clogged or restricted-fuel injectors dirty or restricted-fuel level too low during heavy acceleration events- fuel pressure regulator has failed.not supplying enough fuel- water or alcohol in fuel causing low 02 sensor signal during acceleration.

1. The error code will not appear on the SID. You will need to press the AUTO and OFF buttons at the same time and watch for the code on the ACC Panel.
2. The cost is a tricky question. There are 3 motors in the ACC system so pulling the code is the best place to start.

Its possible that you have the blend door error. I just did this repair a few weeks ago. This was my least favorite repair on the 9-5 yet. It's not hard, but it's not fun.

I see one or two things in your future:
- A broken stop arm,



and/or a broken blend door shaft.



Luckily, there are a lot of good threads on here about how to repair these yourself:
- ACC+blend+door+repair 1
- ACC+blend+door+repair 2

Hope helps.