Question edited for clarity, name of maker and capitalization.
Question moved to category.
For strangeness like that, you need an auto-electrician with a $5,000 scan tool computer that can record the live data when that happens. It will be the only way to diagnose.
Check out the link
https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+lincoln+town+car+ground+wiring+diagram
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You broke it. Driving with the oil light on was VERY poor judgement. A red light means "STOP". You probably ran the engine without oil and the main/rod bearings started overheating and destroying themselves (the screeching you heard). Starting up again and continuing to drive without oil finished the destruction. It doesn't matter how much oil you put in it now, the crankshaft is frozen in position, and the starter cannot turn the engine over.
Sorry, you need another engine.
wash belt with gasoline a no no but sometimes noise will go away do this with a rag and gasoline whit engine stoped turn it to different places to get the whole belt washed off
How do you know it's not a injector ? Could have a burnt transistor or driver in the PCM - engine computer . This transistor or driver supply's a PWM -pulse width modulated ground . No code's shown so probably not that . What is the compression of all the cylinders . How are you checking for codes ? Code reader ? A professional type scan tool that can view mode 6 data would show misfire counter . would know what cylinder is misfiring . Could have a transistor (driver) for coil control that could cause a misfire ,but would be two cylinders missing . Video's on youtube showing how to test a PCM/ECM driver (transistor)
How to test computer transistor driver without scan tool
Need more specifics. However I just had this happen to my Mercury it turned out to be a small motor solenoid on the throttle body not working. Could also be a throttle position sensor, a dirty MAS sensor. Blocked air intake.
look for pennies in l= cigar lighter socket unplug battery over night and see if it still holds a charge
trunk light could stay on check each fuse with a test light with key off only ones with power should be the ones that you do not need a key
just replace the line and reroute it no big deal it happen to all of them it might already have been spliced so you can cut of in tap into the source and then to the other cood part and just bleed the line
take a trox wrench and unscrew the metal plate on the back mirror then glue the plate to the windshield slip mirror over it and the is a automatic dimmer not a compass
Hello Natasha Langford,
..
It looks very much like the one in my
OLD Lincoln NAVIGATOR.
Ford has unique part numbers on all of their parts...
Like: F7VH-19C933-AA
You can call your local friendly parts dealer... Auto dismantlers have cross-over books... they can use to assist in such situations..
I don't know if any serious COMMUNITIES OF INTEREST
have formed (clubs) around 20 year old Lincolns... but I'm POSITIVE the antique folks could tell you how to begin...
Fr myself I'd copy the part number off of the PART in question...
and post it on eBay... and the rest of the internet
https://www.bing.com/search?q=97+lincoln+heater+control+panel&form=EDGTCT&qs=PF&cvid=e7ec37b382d24a2c86e57477c89fb10e&pq=97+lincoln+heater+control+panel&PC=DCTE
American car so i have no idea sorry ,but if its any help they are on a citreon gran picasso ,had to change the fuse plate module which is a computer as well ...just under 500 euros ,wish now i had rewired it manually but it was a autobox as well and wouldnt start without the module working ,which i could have manually bypassed that as well but the the immobilisor cut in ,,,no win no win ,now and to the point of writing this still waiting for my money plus dealers fee for re-programming ,Think i will have to pay a visit with my hammer and nails ,if they can afford to go out on the booze then they can pay me.Sorry for the negative answer
