1993 Lincoln Town Car - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check power 12vdc at the bulb socket. If no power when parking lights are on check power at the connection behind the socket. If no power check at the fuse box right after the fuse

If your car has a light control module, this may be your problem. If so, it's not hard (but pricey) to replace. As you're sitting behind the wheel, the LCM is under the dash just up from your right foot. Check online parts store for a picture.

The OD is dependent on speed in most cases. Say 50MPH, under this it may not shift to OD or if it does, it kicks down very quickly with a small peddle imput.

Disconnect the battery cables because we don't want the car to start while turning the cylinder for removal /this is if you have the key/ put the key in the ignition turn it to the on position on the bottom of the steering column you will see a hole under where the lock cylinder is use a punch or a steel rod that is long enough and thin enough to fit in the hole there is a button inside press that in while rotating and pulling outwards on the cylinder and it will come out then place the new cylinder in until you hear the button click it is now locked in place. / this is if there is no key take the steering column shroud off on the bottom you will see a button sticking out of the column just below the lock cylinder using a drill you must drill out this button all the way this button is what holds the cylinder in the steering column once you have done this insert a flat bladed screw driver into the cylinder and turn it the cylinder should come out good luck to all who use this thread for help STEPHEN

I know this is an old blog but some people may still find it helpful. There are 4 wires in the roof window switch hooked up to 2 smaller harnesses that have 2 wires each.

Remove the switch and use only the metal contacts in the harnesses. One should use a light tester to confirm which one is the ground and live. this is how it turned out for my car.

One harness has a light blue wire with a black stripe, and a black wire. the blue one is live, the black one is ground.

The other harness has a red wire and a darker blue wire (silly ford) these are the motor connect and return wires.

You must hook up thhooked to (example, if the live wire was connected to blue motor wire and the ground wire was connected to red motor wire and it opened it, that would mean you would want to put the live wire to the red motor wire and the ground wire to the blue motor wire)

When doing these wire connections, it is advised that you have the ignition turned off. Once you make all the connections properly, you can turn on the ignition and if done correctly, the roof window will move. Once it is closed, remove the wires frome the harnesses and LEAVE THE ROOF WINDOW ALONE UNTIL YOU HAVE A NEW SWITCH.
e power (Live, light blue) wire to a motor wire. You must then run another wire from the other motor wire. To complete this circuit there is only one place that this last wire can go and it is to the ground. once this is connected the roof should either open more or close.

To reverse the operation of the roof, simply reverse the position of the live and ground wires in respect to which motor wires they are

You have some kind of short in a wire some where. LOOK for bare wires Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jim_c09d8140f32619a8

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If the problem is not a fuse the lighting pannel might be burned out.

I would say not . Best ask an accredited ac specialist shop as it may not be a gas compatible with your system as there are only 2 gasses that are

The A/C System has to be diagnosed to find a problem I have to ask-did you expect someone to guess at any vehicle problem!

Its hard to get any car repair info for free on the net, everyone wants to make you pay for it. One place where you can still get this info for free and in many cases get free access to online care repair manuals etc., is your local library! Check them out! They should have the Haynes or Chilton's service manuals for most cars and/or access to the online services for Chilton's/Haynes etc.

It is important that you make sure the compressor is disconnected and that there is no power going to the suspension control module. (This is something that the mechanic who did the spring conversion for you should have done but CHECK FOR YOURSELF.) Once you have made sure that the compressor is disconnected and the leveling system computer has been disabled, SIMPLY REMOVE THE LIGHT BULB.

Most rear differentials, it's a drain and refill operation. SOME differentials have a drain plug, but others have ONLY a fill plug. If yours doesn't have a drain plug, then you need to suck the old fluid out, with suction/transfer pump: http://www.harborfreight.com/gear-oil-and-fluid-pump-61746.html You can also use this to refill with the new fluid. Most rear ends are filled to the bottom of the fill plug hole. If you overfill, just let it overflow/drain until it stops dripping. Now, different differentials require different fluids, so check what you need. It might be in the owner's manual.

sounds like an vacume leek check all the vacume lines with soapy water in sqert bottle spre lines if eng changes sound idle up or down theres your problem...

definitely something else causing the overheating. If the radiator has not been replaced in the last 5-10 years then the cores are probably blocked . Have a compression test done to check for head gasket and cracked head/s. If you have a viscous fan hub then replace it as it is no 1 problem if the overheating was occurring at lights , slow traffic, or pulling at slow speed up hills

1993 Lincoln Town Car Expansion Tank Cap Is this the cap you are looking for?

Locate fuse box, try to find to fuse map, usually on the cover of the fuse box, find the related fuses and switch ignition on, get a test light, connect the aligator clip to earth and check both terminals of the fuse, both should have power, if 1 out of 2, then fuse blown.

I had the exact same problem with my 93 Lincoln TC. Replace the switch under the drivers side dash or take to a auto repair shop which is what I did.

need to investigate if noise coming from brake, caliper, or wheel bearing. Would need more info on the noise, when it happens, if affected by speed, etc.

might need to replace your aerial sounds like the first thing I would look at .