Top 20 1993 Lincoln Town Car - Page 6 Questions & Answers

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Hi,
My name is Ben and I'm your guru, i.e., mentor, an influential teacher or popular expert: a management guru. - origin from Sanskrit, 'weighty, grave', for today.
Based on the age of the vehicle, I' only going to suggest one fix, Trying to change a security code is an expensive and time consuming undertaking.
ABSOLUTE SOLUTION: Go on eBay and buy an anti-theft bypass module for $10-$20 depending on the year,make and model of your vehicle. This is a job that you can do yourself.
All the best
Ben

Turning the key to on causes current to flow to light power draws like the fuel pump, ignition, etc.But turning the key to start, causes 10 times that amount of current to go to the starter.So one possibility is that the battery is weak, the battery terminals are dirty, etc., and you just don't have enough current.But another possibility is that the starter is drawing far more current than it should, from something like an internal short, a frozen engine, etc.

First of all, there should be a light that comes on if a component is not working. If you wish to physically test them, you'll need to find a safe place for a stopping test. Wet roads or grassy areas would work best. You'll need to 'slam' on the brakes to lock them up. If your car's abs system is working, your car will stop in a straight line. If you go sideways, they aren't working. NOTE: this is not the recommended way to test...but also a true test. If you came to my shop, we'd scan your system for an abs code. That's the safest way.

Yes, you fill through the dipstick tube. There are flexible funnels that fit nicely into the tube available at most auto parts stores

I had a very similar problem in my 93 town car. I ended up changing the Calipers, rotors, and pads. This stopped the grabbing, but still every once and a while the ABS light would come on and grip the brakes on me. I ended up pulling the ABS relay from under the hood.and the problem has stayed away. The only thing is that now i dont ABS brakes. Its a heavy car tho and i havent had an issue yet. Also, if you decide to do this, the relay way mis marked in my car, when i pulled the ABS relay, the Air shocks went out instead. Had to pull one at a time until the anti lock light came on, then i knew i had it.

I had an 89 Thunderbird. Problem seemed to be the brake light switch. Easily replaced by yourself, about $50. from Ford, probably cheaper from an Auto Parts store

the positive (+) battery lead goes from the battery to the solenoid.....cheers

It means circuit open this usaully happens when u put too much gas in ur lincoln u probly filled it up pass then sensor that reads it @least that's what the lincoln mechanic told me I have the same problem jus continue to drive it and burn the gas

If you know the 5 digit code to unlock your door, press the 5 digit code followed by the number 6. This will pop the trunk. To change the unlock code, press the 5 digit code, followed by the new code you wish to use. Keep in mind, the new code will be lost if the car should lose power and revert back to it's original code.

I can't think of any A/C parts for a 1996 towncar that are obsolete. Can you find out what the name of it is or post a pic of it so I can tell you what it is?

The two things i would check is the fuel filter and the cadalytic converter. Hope this helps

There could be a couple of different problems going on with your a/c system. The main cause of your system not working is the a/c compressor going out. The compressor is run by the serpentine belt and when it goes bad, somtimes it could lock up. The repair for the compressor is quiet costly at times depending on vehicle. It is for the reason that the system is pressurized and when it is replaced you need special equipment and other additional parts. Have your vehicle taken to you local repair shop or an a/c specialist and do an a/c check.

Hope This Helps!

try a company called jc whitney they probably have your replacement headliner at a very reasonable price

they have a problem with the idle control motor or valve which ever you want to call it. all you need to do is replace the valve.

YOU HAVE INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAK ALSO COULD HAVE BAD OR STICKING INTAKE VALVES. CODE PO 226 IDM SIGNAL NOT RECEIVED AND CODE PO 542 FUEL PUMP SECONDARY CIRCUIT.

vacuum lines could be a problem you might want to check the catalytic converter if they get clogged the motor doesnt breath very well hope this helps you bob

Sounds like your rotors have stress cracks you will need to have them turned to fix the problem. Hope this helps

you most likely won't have to do much, charge the battery new fuel the best you can buy, a can of seaFome in the tank make sure its full of oil and antifreeze, after you warm it up and make sure the thermostat opens then change the oil and filter then drive the wheels off it. also make sure their are no weather cracks in the tires, if after driving you pick up a vibration you may have to replace the tires, some times after sitting in the same spot for a long time the steel belts in the tires will stack up causing a vibration.

have fun

If you search on www.youtube.com you may well find a video of someone pulling a wiper motor
w/linkage on a 90s lincoln, full size mercury, or ford. They will all be about the same process,
if you can not find a video then buy a repair manual on CD over on eBay for about 10 bucks.
When you have the linkage out and in your hands you will see what has failed, I would guess the arm that bolts on one end to the end of the motor's shaft and snaps or bolts on the other end to the end of the linkage. On a car that old you are going to be looking for a new wiper motor or a used transmission, should be plenty of them around in junkyards as the air suspension systems failed and they were too expensive to repair. A junkyard can give you an interchange number for the part and that will help you find a similar linkage in other years and other FOMOCO models. Possibly someone makes an aftermarket for the linkage, but I doubt it.

This is a common problem for Lincoln/Ford products. The most common cause is a bad or stuck door switch. The hard part is determining which switch is causing the problem. If it's a stuck switch, liberally spray lubricant (WD-40 or something similar) on the door switches. After spraying the switches, work them in and out by hand 10-20x to get the lubricant to work itself into the switch. If after performing this procedure the lights stay on (door ajar) then you've got a bad switch and need to replace it.