Top 20 1993 Lincoln Town Car - Page 5 Questions & Answers

i think napa auto parts offer a kit

Have to drop fuel tank & remove the sender from the topCar is too old to get that involved

I would first replace the ambient temperature sensor in front of the radiator. The part is fairly cheap.

some 1 put too mutch dieelectric grease inside the plug wire boots and prob. cheep wires

Should be a little fitting on the brake calipers for you to loosen, get someone to pump the brakes and tighten them as soon as the fluid comes out, that goes for all four, That is the best way to do it.

You need to have a special tool to bleed this car.

Check TPS functionality. Mounted on throttle body. Has 3 wires ,5 volt DC,ground wire, and signal wire returning to ecm. Check for proper gnd using DVOM. Then test for 5 volt reference signal from ecm. Once supply circuits are verified test return signal wire. First in closed throttle position. Then WOT position. Closed should be between .2 and .5 volts DC. WOT should be between 4.5 and 4.9 volts DC. If measurements are not obtained, loosen 2 screws securing TPS . Just enough to obtain return signal voltage specs explained earlier. Always refer to Oem specifications for your vehicle. Specs Read earlier in this post is an excellent rule of thumb. Another cause for stalling at idle is poor maintenance. Look and hear especially for vacuum Leaks in intake manifold. Ford V8 is notorious. Chec for air restrictions. Intake and exhaust. Air filter etc.all the back to catalytic converters and mufflers. If you have access to OBD SCAN TOOL.check for codes, mil or check engine light may not be on, but wat we call soft codes could be stored. Soft codes are ones that will clear themselves cause the fault is not consistent. Hard codes turn on mil and have to be cleared by DST. Fault is occuring and must be addressed. Well Ford owners enjoy your ride. I know I have over the years . Never owned but they kept me busy and $ in my pockets. PEACE....

Yes there are 2 location for fuses and one of the are inside the car and the other under the hood mostly on the driver side fender or close to it.

You need to remove the plug boots first, twist them and gently pull up, DO NOT FORCE THEM! Then obtain a extra deep spark plug socket in 3/8" drive and turn the plugs counter clockwise to loosen, remove the plugs from the wells they set in (use a pencil magnet if needed) and install the new plugs, tighten to 18 foot pounds of torque, use a tiny drop of oil on the threads, do not use anti-seize.

This is called a transponder and it may be possible to repair with a soldering iron but normally nothing will work if no signal from the transponder but a 93 may not be as advanced as a newer car so i wouldnt honestly know as iam a europeon mechanic whos never seen this vehicle except on starksy amd hutch or similar but a lot of older cars here from around this age were only cutting out the starter motor and the coil so it may be possible that this is why you can still start the vehicle ,try a direct question to emmisionwiz as hes a ford dealer mechanic and old in the tooth like myself so i would imagine he would know whats possible .As for the charging of the battery then i dont think this would affect this issue so you may have more than one fault .

Are you sure its not the coolant bleed hose? in that case you would have to replace it.

1 check ur range relay in the engine dept on firewall should be next to one for blower relay,if there is no voltage to range relay,remove the heater control panelin auto,connect one end of a jumper wire to the terminal of the switch connector with voltage,connect other end of the jumper to each of the terminals that carry voltage to the resister block,if motor runnormally at all speeds replace the switch,switch replacement:remove control assemble from the instrument panel,remove screw from beneath the assemble this holds switch to the main assemble n remove switch

Sounds like either your wiring from the Light switch is bad or the Light switch itself is bad. Check with your Owners manual to see if the "Parking lights" have a separate fuse.Your tail and License plate lights would light with either the Headlights or the "Parking" light selected at the switch as would the front parking lights. If all lights except the headlights are out, your problem is closer to the light switch than at the mounting points of each Parking light or License plate light.This is one case where you will not know if a dead wire off of the switch is dead because of a bad switch or a bad wire. You would have to detach the harness at the switch, test the wire bundle or jump the switch with power to see how it distributes power through the Harness. It will take a lot of time to rule out the switch. It may be cheaper to replace the switch and then work from there.

its on the door pillar i think?

If your oil level is good, that is between the low and high marks, that light blinking is an indicator there is a problem with your oil pressure. The light flashing could be low oil level, a bad oil pressure sensor, your oil pump going out or a clogged line or pick up. Start by checking your oil level, then test the sensor if both are good drain your oil and pull the oil pan off to see if the pick up is clogged, if it is clean it. If everything is good at this point then the problem is the pump itself and you'll need to replace the pump.

check at brake pedal return halt and also at parking brake return halt .

Could be one of three things;1. Check the fuses in the fuse box. 2. If all fuses are OK, check the headlight switch.3. If this car has 'delay turn off lights' feature, the lighting control module should be checked.

May even be as simple as a bad seal on gas cap. Stop in to one of the bigger autoparts stores such as Autozone, Pep Boys etc, and they will scan it for free to point you in the right direction. If code(s) doesn't give obvious fix, get back to us with code and we'll further assist you.

It is a BOO, Brake On Off switch. Most part stores just call it a brake light switch. If you have one switch on the pedal and you have cruise control, the switch does both jobs. Most cars have two switches though, one for cruise and the other for the brake lights. The one for the brake lights is usually just two wires.

flyersqod, I believe that you have an OBD II code reader which is what is being sold to the public. OBD II starts with vehicles that were manufactured in 1996 and later and it mandated that all vehicles have a universal plug-in adapter to accommodate the scanners. Pre-1996 vehicles had a different plug-in for their respective makes. GM, Ford and Chrysler as well as all the foreign models all had different plug-ins. This is the case with your 1993 Town Car. The plug-in for your vehicle is located in the engine compartment and has two plugs on it. This cannot be accessed by an OBD II reader. If you want your vehicle scanned you will have to take it somewhere that has an OBD I scanner. Good luck with this.