1986 model has the bonnet release inside the footwell on the driver side. I'm referring to a right hand drive model, the level is on the right, and is black with a plastic housing to protect the carpet.
The safety catch after you've pulled the release is in the centre at the front of the bonnet. With your hand palm up put fingers in and under at about 45 degrees and you'll feel the lever which you need to lift while easing up the bonnet.
Hope this helps!
The motor is connected to the sunroof drive mechanism with a rubber cylinder. It could just be that this cylinder has worn out.
If the motor runs one way and not the other the problem is likely in the switch itself on the centre console. I gently levered out my switch, pried it open and cleaned the contacts with a very thin file.
It was difficult to get the actual switch open, but once polished and reassembled the roof moved back and forth properly.
Air fuel is adjusted by the car's computer and cannot be manually adjusted unless you purchase chips to then re-write code to adjust the mixture amount other parameters. Google Sharktuner by JDS Porsche for more information.
Remove rear carpet. Remove spare tire in recessed tire compartment. There will be a small hatch with a plastic white lever that you have to swing open. Once the door is open, remove ground (black) first, then the positive red side. Clean terminals and also clean ground to rear hatch from battery.
is the alarm factory installed or aftermarket?
is the key an integrated key (both security and ignition)?
so the alarm go off once engine is started?
can you start the engine with the alarm going?
if it starts, can you drive it?
Try this. disconnect car battery - both cables - leave disconnect for 5 minutes. this should remove old codes. Reconnect and retry.
In your car you have a transaxle configuration - the gearbox is bolted on the rear differential and not the engine. To replace the seal the transmission must be removed and partially dismantled - so they definitely did something wrong.
In an automatic transmission the gears are shifted by a valve block (an assembly of pressure release valves that in turn activate or block other valves which in turn activate the shifting pistons); that valve block takes in consideration 3 elements when selecting what gears to activate: 1 - the engine revs as expressed in the oil pressure given by the pump 2 - the accelerator pedal which forces a gear shift when moved with great amplitude - like in your case when you release it, it forces an upshift. 3 - the speed of the car as sensed from the output shaft. From what you describe it appears that the oil pressure given by the pump is no longer raising sufficiently to activate the normal upshift. This is clearly a fault caused by the improper reassembly of the gearbox - one (or more) connections to the valve body is leaking internally and the valves are no longer properly commanded. It's their fault, have them fix your transmission free of charge.
yes if the battery is not charged key will
not the ignition on.charge the battery and then check out.this will help. ------ Dead Battery: The most common reason your car won't start is a dead
battery. If you have a battery tester that can measure cranking amps, test your
battery to see if it's weak. If you can't test it yourself, you can test the
battery indirectly by jump-starting the
car. If it starts right away, your problem is most likely a dead battery. Replace the battery, and clean the battery connections to
ensure good contact. Battery
Corrosion: Over time your battery connections can become dirty, or
corroded. This corrosion breaks the connection your battery has with the rest
of the car, and it won't start. Try cleaning your battery posts and
try to start the car again Bad Igntion Switch: If your battery checks out, but the
starter is still silent, it may be a faulty ignition switch. Turn the key to
the on position (not all the way to start). If the red warning lights on your
dash don't light up (and your battery connections are clean), the ignition switch
is bad. If they do light up, turn the key to the start position. The dash
warning lights should turn off at this key position (most cars). If you're not
sure, turn on the headlights. When you try to start the car, the lights should
either dim (a lot) or turn off completely. If they do, your ignition switch
should be ok. If not, the switch will need replacement. Bad Starter Connection: Corrosion can not only
keep your battery from connecting, it can affect any electrical component,
especially the ones exposed to the elements like the starter. If you have a
helper, you can test the connection by holding a circuit tester lead on the
wire that engages the starter. This is the smaller of the two wires connected
to the starter. Be sure no part of your body is near the moving parts of
the engine - it could still start at any time! Have a friend turn the key
and check the current. If you're getting current to the starter but it ain't
spinning, it needs replacement.If your starter spins freely when you turn the
key, the problem lies elsewhere. Now you begin to check the other systems that
could keep it from
firing up. 1) Make sure the
transmission is in park (for cars withautomatic
transmisson). 2)Set the
parking brake to prevent the car from rolling farther against the curb. 3)Pull
hard on thesteering wheelwhile turning it in both directions. If
this doesn't free the wheel, move on to step 4 4)Release
the parking brake and put the transmission in neutral. Let up on the foot pedal
just enough to rock the car slightly. 5)Turn the steering
wheel again. The key should turn now. If you
are turning the wheel back and forth while turning the ignition and still will
not turn , This sounds like a bad ignition lock jammed inside and would have to
be replaced, this is something the dealer would have to repair and reprogram
the ignition after the repair, This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank
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