20 Most Recent 2006 Lincoln LS Questions & Answers

I would try to have your mechanic keep on it. He should be able to track it down, now that he knows the ECM is good. Maybe you have some wiring issues, like a harness that got too close to hot exhaust and melted some wires.

Any lights lit on the instrument cluster ? Check engine , wrench symbol , ETC light ? Have you had it check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes ? That's the first thing that should be do ! Also have sensor data scanned , if your not familiar with these thing's suggest you take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop . ! Don't waste money just replacing parts !

So , what did you do wrong when you had the panel off ? How do we know what's wrong .

Behind the front bumper in the opening of the wheel well liner

Lincoln Navigator 2003 2006 WorkSHOP Service repair manual Download for the easy solution download the pdf file

No not at all , your vehicle has electronic throttle control . There is no cable connecting the gas pedal to the throttle plate. This system is all computer controlled .With all the sensors on the vehicle an the computer you need special tools to diagnose the system . Your best bet is to take it to a ASE certified repair shop or the dealer .

There should be a notation in a Service Manual. If I were trying to troubleshoot this, I would unplug the connector to the seat heater. Then test for power. But I would think that the seat heater would either measure the temperature achieved and then cut off or have a straight timer and then shut off.

Main Relay ?We need to know the vehicles problems in detail,to offer a suggestion.I have a 2004 LS V8 & all the manuals,so be specific,there is no main relayWhat if any codes do you have ?

The 2006 LS must have the air bled out of the system every time the cap is removed to check or add coolant. There should be a rubber hose hanging somewhere very close to the plastic bottle where you add coolant. It will be capped off and the end will have what looks like a plastic screw. With a screwdriver slowly unscrew(open) until air starts escaping. After all the air is out and only coolant is leaking out retighten screw and you are done. Needs to be done every time you open the refill bottle as air gets in then.

The 2006 LS has a parking brake that is controlled electronically. When power is lost to the car (battery disconnected etc.) the brake has to be reprogrammed to relearn what position it is in at the time. When this happens the info center up by the speedometer reads "foot on brake." If you depress your brake pedal the message will change to the next step and will walk you through the reprogramming. I believe you activate the parking brake next and then turn it back off and drive around the block, activate again, turn off again and shut down car. When you restart the car the parking brake will be reprogrammed however if you overlook the foot on brake message (like I did for a while) the car will be confused about whether the parking brake is on or off for awhile. This whole process is listed in the owners manual in case I have forgotten any of the steps. Hope this helps.

did the mechanic vacuum the system to get any moisture out before re-charging?

Google search got this: Ok so I looked up the codes and P2107 is for "Throttle Actuator Control Module Processor" and P2110 is for "Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM" I think P2110 is thrown and active because there was an error with the throttle body module/part. There is a list of causes for P2107: Possible causes - Foulty Throttle Body - Faulty Throttle Actuator Control Module - Throttle Actuator Control Module harness is open or shorted - Throttle Actuator Control Module circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM) test the electrical connection on the part e to see if it's loose or corroded at all. I'm also going to change my coil packs. Maybe if one of those are going out, the computer might throw this code too? Wouldn't think so, but maybe. What was happening is, when I accelerated, sometimes the car would just die (well, I thought it was dying but was actually going into that forced Limited RPM mode). If I turn the car off and start it back up, all good again. The throttle body is 422.94 OEM, so... yeah... Read more: http://forums.automotive.com/70/9635379/general-auto-repair/04-lincoln-ls-error-codes-p2107-p2110/#ixzz3Ssbd2WnJ Follow us: @MyAutomotive on Twitter ' AutomotiveCom on Facebook

Hi Joe,here's a link on removing your transmission,I have a 2004 Lincoln LS 3.0 Engine,great car. Repair Guides Automatic Transmission Transmission Removal Installation...

To Replace: This is done with the hood opened and located at the bottom of the windshield on the passenger side.

Note: The fasteners are reusable.
Remove the right side of the cowl vent screen.
Remove the two-part pin-type retainers and separate the Velcro attachment of the rubber hinge cover to the rear outboard corner of the cowl vent screen.
Pull up the cowl vent screen to release the lower clips.
Push on the RH corner of the filter to release the clip. Release the LH clip and remove the cabin air filter.
To install, reverse the removal procedure

To Reset:

Press the STATUS control to access the System Check function, the message center will display A/C FILTER XXX% RESET FOR NEW.

Press and hold the RESET control to set to 100% , the message center will display IF NEW FILTER HOLD RESET.

After a successful reset, the message center will display A/C FILTER LIFE SET TO 100%.

Just the egr valve on there- nothing else It is all self contained & electronic I have that car 2004 L/S V8 If your looking at the data stream on any vehicle, it is not always correct May not be on the vehicle or the scan tool software, may not be correct

I too had the message center beep randomly but I could never find the culprit due to the brief timing. The alarm sounding off is a different and more annoying problem. All of my research points to the battery being at the end of its life. A weak battery or corroded connection on the ground cable will cause both of your problems. Clean the ground cable where it is screwed to the body too. Do your gauges top out (go to max) at startup? If so your battery is suspect and that can be load tested at most auto stores for free. Never buy a battery with less than 750 CCA.

Don't forget the DCCV. those act funny (not ha ha.) you can pinch the middle heater hose to stop hot coolant from entering cabin This will narrow down your issues and if cool air cycles you have diagnosed the problem