I commend you for wanting to replace it yourself, but if you don't know what it looks like and how to locate it, I doubt you can replace it. You need wrenches and a socket set. You are dealing with a large amperage cable and if you disconnect the battery, you will have to input the radio code and reset the alarm and engine immobilizer. Usually you access the starter from underneath, so you need a jack and axle stands, or a pair of ramps. And it is HEAVY. It is on the side of the engine, so better than some, but they hid it under the left bank of the angled V6 engine..https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/starter/lincoln/ls It is hidden behind the right front tyre. Location
Trying to bypass an Immobiliser isn't a good idea. The system is wired into many areas of the electronics. Cutting and tying wires randomly can create SERIOUS problems. By Serious I really mean VERY expensive!
Get a Good Auto Electrician to have a look at it and they will be able to tell you what is wrong.
You must check a few things to eliminate causes ok , so first answer this question , does your engine stay running when your parked idling and when you press on the gas to raise the rpm's it still runs yes/no? If yes you must check the spark plug gap on each plug , wait for the engine to cool down for 1 hour they take out each spark plug and check the air gap between the center firing pin and the bottom electrode using a gapping tool you can buy this at autozone ,and the gap is listed on the emissions sticker on the radiator support if your not say on doing this stuff get a guy to help you ok ///your engine will idle fine when the gap is out of specification maybe a little shaking in drive ,but when you are driving the extra heat generated from the engine being under a higher load will cause the gas to evaporate and burn up before the spark ignition takes place so the loss of power or stalling will be the result when you take out the first plug if it's out of gap they all are and if there's enough center firing pin left you can regap them but it's better to replace them all at the same time 1 by 1 they should be removed ok
The fuel pump is inside the fuel tank , nothing is located in the front driver wheel area , unless ABS - anti-lock brakes pump motor. When turning the key to the start position does the starter engage an spin the engine around ? Hooking up a fuel pressure gauge an check to see if there is fuel pressure at the injector fuel rail should be done plus hooking up a scan tool an checking for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes also . Any light's lit on the instrument cluster , check engine light etc.... Your vehicle also has a electronic control module that controls the fuel pump . Your best bet mite be to have a qualified repair shop check it out , has electronic's you are not aware of.
My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs from www.reliable-store.com instead. much better info on all vehicles, complete details, and
they also have live assistance feature
Depending on which gas line was replaced, the inertia switch may need to be reset. Also he may have turned off the fuel pump in the trunk and forgot to turn it back on. There are switches near the air ride controls in the trunk.
Temperature sensors trigger cooling fan. But can be a stuck cooling fan relay that refuses to disengage.
This fan will strain charging system and may cause engine to run too cool at times.
Here is a link to the owner's manuals, (you never say what model of Lincoln) all fuse information in there under a section called "Roadside Emergencies". The vehicle has 2 fuses boxes one under the hood and one inside the car. http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals
You did not state the symptoms you're getting(problems) . The lean codes are usually caused by either a bad vacuum leak or the Coils going bad,causing a miss.
don-ohio (:^)
you can test an ignition coil by unplugging the end that goes to the distributors/coil packs, holding it a fraction of an inch from a part of the exposed car frame, attempt to crank, and watch for a spark.
Your best bet would be to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop ! You have no diagnostic skills shown by the list of parts replaced ! Check engine light codes ? Scan tool diagnostics , scan tool engine sensor data ! Fuel pressure an flow testing , hook up fuel pressure gauge ! Plugged exhaust , back pressure testing etc.... Videos on youtube basic engine testing an electrical systems testing , fuel system testing etc....
if it is a manual transmission then broken mounts are always a good place to start looking
next is a clutch problem nor disengaging properly--again a mount problem
if it is an auto the the mount is immaterial as it will be a selector sensor problem
