1990 Lincoln Continental - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

thats depends on whats attached but you can remove it from car with a 1000 # lift if that's what your asking hope this helps mike

You need to take it to a place that does emission testing , you can't just purchase one .

uve entered the computer universe-my condolences--today everyting is connected in almost an imposible logic-u have an OBD 1 system-before 96-go hav car scanned to obtain a data stream to translate the codes that may appear-repair manuals explain these

Break the window,

Front seating area, driver side, under dash, driver side of steering column, above fuse panel, mounted on dash support bracket. Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/91_Lincoln_continental_turn_signal_flashers_do_not_work#ixzz1i1kRaZMy

Find the compressor, follow the pipes out from the compressor, one is smaller than the other and runs out to the front of the car. The bigger of the two will run to the passenger side and hook up thorough a tank going to the firewall. Along this line you will find a port, it should have a black plastic cap which will screw off by hand, this is the port you use to fill the system with freon.

OK, do you just need the bulb? Or the whole plastic "clear" lens part that covers the bulb?

If you just need the halogen bulb, it comes out the back of the lens under the hood.

any more details, or how to replace the whole "plastic" part, I would visit my local library.

I will go get my 1990 Continental owners manual, and the picture shows the fuse panel and what each fuse is for and what amp it is, etc... Hopefully you still need it.. If you do, I'll go get it...

if you take to dealer they will program your new number for you
good dealership wont even charged

No heat? More than likely, it's a thermostat problem. If it is stuck in the open position, your coolant will flow out to the radiator to be cooled and not held back in the engine to get hot. I would recommend taking your vehicle to a mechanic and have them check it out. They should be able to determine quickly why you're not getting proper heat.

What You need is a power steering pressure hose assembly. NO! you cannot just replace it with a piece of rubber hose! That thing takes about 1200 PSI of pressure! The entire hose assembly from the pump to the steering gear is only about $20 and should be available at most any retail parts store.

Your car has several different types of oils or fluids (motor oil, transmission oil, power steering fluid/oil, brake fluid, and differential oil - if applicable). . Before you can determine how to fix your problem, you need to determine exactly what you problem is, meaning you need to figure out what fluid is leaking.

Good Luck!

Ok this one is a tough one. If your handle on the outside does not work for some time, then the rod that attaches to the handle has most likely come loose. Your options are limited. I usually do not recommend the use of a slim jim. However in this case, a slim jim is an option. Inside your read door panel are three main rods. One rod moves the inside handle. The other rod moves the outside handle. The third rod is attached to the lock knob. Using the slim jim slide it into the door. Hook it onto one of the rods and pull up slightly. Try to see what is moving when you move the rod. If it is the inside handle or lock knob is moving, then find another rod that moves nothing. That will be the rod that should be attached to your outside handle. Lift up on that rod and it should open your door.
After you open the door, go ahead and take the time to fix your door, by removing the door panel and re-attaching the rod to the handle.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

thankyou for using fixya.com

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove sight shield.
3. Remove module bracket.
4. Disconnect No. 6 spark plug wire to prevent damage to wire.
5. Remove radiator fan shroud assembly.
6. Remove top RH isolated radiator mount bracket.
7. Remove remote air cleaner.
8. Remove ignition coil.
9. Disconnect electrical connector on power steering pressure switch at steering gear.
10. Remove pressure switch to allow for tool clearance.
11. Remove screw at pressure switch and return line bracket.
12. Remove anti rattle clips from power steering lines.
13. Remove plastic strap attaching steering gear heat shield to power steering return line.
14. Remove plastic strap attaching lines to transfer tube on the steering gear.
15. Disconnect Electronic Vacuum Regulator (EVR) valve wire.
16. Remove the ground wire from back of engine block.
17. Remove pressure line fitting at power steering pump using a 5/8 inch flare nut wrench.
18. Loosen clamp and remove return line at pump.
19. Loosen clamps and remove return line at power steering oil cooler.
20. Remove pressure line fitting (gold in color) at steering gear, using an 18mm open end wrench.
21. Remove return line fitting (silver in color) at steering gear, using an 18mm open end wrench.
22. Loosen two screws retaining power steering oil cooler to sub frame.

As theirs more than one for your car depending on the plant it was built in and the state that the car was built for the best place is the service dept. of your frendly neirbhood ford dealer and be nice and have your VIN in hand and maybe they'll print you out the right one. You can go to the parts store and get a Haynes or a Chilton self fix book for your car but it'll show more than one model year and the man differnt ones depending on the story Ijust told and if you don't do this work all the time it'll be too confusing. A shop with even alldata can print you one out too or you can subscribe to alldata online for just our car and you'll have the best repair imformation you can get and it's the whole car everthing and it's about 10 for a whole year, justr the one car I pay 168 a month for all cars. It pays the monthly cost every day so it's worth it to me.

its likely the seat motor, or switch as they share the same power source.

You could be more specific.

OK, if you are to modify the original system to use the Large Excalibur Headlights and you are burning out the headlight switch, I would try to ask the electric shop to put a relay in there that can handle the increased load and have it hooked directly to the battery terminals so that it won't burn out your stock switch which has plastic in it.

Is this for a 1992 or 1996 Continental? the 96' is a different platform all together. but in the 88-94 model, it is located on the firewall, inside the engine bay. Just look for two relays sort-of in the middle of that back firewall. The fuel relay will have the largest wire going to it. It will be probably be Yellow with a pink strip, or visa-versa. Just look for the largest wire going to that particular relay, and that is the fuel relay. There are no fuses or other connections between that relay, and the fuel pump. It is a straight run, from there. It is also, NOT labeled, nor does the relay have any markings on it, at least mine did not have any.

hate to be the bearer of bad news but it sounds as if you may have waited to long to have your cv joint replaced and now it has possibly caused some internal damge that may even have affected your transmission, but all hope isnt lost, try and have the vehicle twoed to a shop you trust and have them take the joint out and check for what type of damages anwhat the repair cost would be