20 Most Recent 1997 Hyundai Accent - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Main causes of misfire would be loss of spark; the air/fuel mixture is too far out of balance to ignite; or loss of compression.

Loss of spark includes anything that prevents coil voltage from jumping the electrode gap at the end of the spark plug. Causes include worn, fouled or damaged spark plugs, bad wires or even a cracked distributor cap. A weak coil or excessive rotor gas inside a distributor would affect all cylinders, not just a single cylinder.

"Lean misfire" can occur when the air/fuel mixture is too lean (not enough gasoline in the mixture) to burn. This can be caused by a dirty, clogged or inoperative fuel injector; air leaks; or low fuel pressure because of a weak pump, restricted filter or leaky pressure regulator.

Loss of compression means the cylinder loses most of its air/fuel mixture before it can be ignited. The most likely causes here are a leaky (burned) exhaust valve or a blown head gasket. If two adjacent cylinders are misfiring, it's likely the head gasket between them has failed. Also, if an engine is overheating or losing coolant, it's likely the head gasket is the culprit.

You can isolate the weak cylinder by temporarily disconnecting each of the spark plug wires, one at a time, while the engine is idling. When there's no change in the idle speed, then you have pinpointed the weak cylinder.

maybe you should weigh your options cause probably cheaper to replace that rebuild disconect bat before you remove starter take all wires loose remembering where they go dont mix up and remove 2 or 3 bolts that hold the starter in place then remove and replace in reverse order

If the ABS wheel speed sensor was defective and you replaced it, the ABS light will automatically turn off once the vehicle is driven. If the ABS light stays on, you still have another problem in the system.
If the light remains on, have the codes read and reply back with the codes and we can start diagnosing.
Regards,

When the starter kicks out and does not start the car ,the fuel is still sprayed down in the cylinders because the initial turn of the key to the start position pulses the injectors so when you finally get the car started there is to much gas in the cylinders.which will cause the car to miss e few moments.So replace your starter this should fix your problem:)

1). Open your Trunk and let it extend all the way up
2). Look up at the part of your trunk closest to the license plate.
3). There should be 2 wires, one going to the left light and one going to the right light. Follow the wire to the bulb, and twist counter-clockwise, or to the left to remove the bulb from the housing.
4). Replace the light bulb with the recommended factory bulb.
5). Repeat step 3 in the reverse order.

you should take it to a mechanic to diagnose the problem, because there are 10+ things that could cause your car to have these symptoms...They all range from the fuel delivery to a bad transmission. i hope you find out the problem.

depends upon what type of window you have. The manual window regulator is fairly simple to fix. it wont take you more than 30 minutes to tak the panel off and put it on if you know what you're doing. The automatic will be a bit trickier. And yes, it happens often to first generation accents.
Next time it happens, search a local junkyard. i pulled mine off of a rear ended accent, and it only costed 15 dollars.

okay. there could be a couple of problems with your transmission.
1). it's quite possible that the clutch discs inside of your transmission have finally burned out. Hyundai has been known for making faulty transmissions for the accent for the first generation models.
2). if the car doesn't go in first gear, try driving it in normal mode and not economy. the accent purposely pulls in second gear in economy mode, when warmed up, in order to get into the high 30 mpgs.
3). faulty shift control solenoid. These have also been known to be defective with the first generation accent (1995-1999).
4). Your transmission fluid leaked out, prior to the mechanic fixing it, and the high heat building up in the transmission as well as the low amount of fluid in the transmission helped to burn it out.
for options 1 and 4, you wont know the actual problem unless you pull the transmission out and examine all of the clutch discs.
hope this helps...
~Proud owner of a 1997 Accent GL

first check all cables for corrosion on the battery. then go under the truck and check all cables that are on the starter. if they are clean then replace the starter because the solenoid is going bad.

This is not the first mis-guided post I've seen about this. A screwdriver for the set screw is fine on some models. Other models the front wheel bearings must be removed and usually replaced to get the rotors off. The bearings are fairly cheap at the local napa etc.. So just replace them. Be careful of the advise given on here. People think that one answer covers all models. This is not the case. Usually given buy a youngster who honestly beleives hes a mechanic.

Hi,

there could be a number of reasons for this. firstly, when did you last change the transmission oil? if it's been 15000 miles ago, then change it. Before you do, put in some seafoam transtune to break down any gum and varnish build up.

Leave it in there for at least a few days running the engine and changing the gear selector.

Then disconnect the battery for a few hours. after reconnecting it, take a drive and see what happens. disconnecting the battery resets the TCM.

If problem persists, then it could beeither the transmission cooler is blocked, or restricted into and out of the radiator. this could be causing the tranny to get too hot and shut down. Another reason could be that the clutch plates are worn out. It doesn't sound like the type of symptom the shift solenoid pack would cause, but it could the input speed sensor too.

My guess is old transmission oil and a biuld up of varnish on the plates. you'll need to get the transmission cleaned by using seafoam transtune, then get a transmission service to change the fluid and filter. this will likely cause the transmission to go into limp mode and get stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear until you disconnect the battery and reset the TCM. You'll find the electrical components will react much better if you do this. If the problem persists, then it looks as though it could be plates, or restricted cooling through the radiator.

One thing you can do is to take the car to o'reillys and plug their diagnostic into the cars computer. This should provide you with the fault codes if their are any. look up the codes and you'll find a path to solving the problem. You can call the service shops at the manufacturers dealerships for the explanation of the codes, or google them. Lastly, before throwing parts at the car, if problem doesn't get better, take it into a trusted transmission repair shop for a road test.

Good luck

You have to change the flexy pipe.The lambda sensor is behind that.And its the sensor that is giving you the problems by not getting the correct readings from the exhaust gasses.

dear friend-rhre is two bots holding the starte on the one enters from the gearbox side and the othe from the starter side that can only be reach from the bottom.

disconnect battery when changing pooters
then scan it

I would recommend checking the fuse that controls the cigarette lighter.... i know it sounds strange, but most manufacturers link the power to the OBD test port to the same fuse as the cigarette lighter, mainly because it would be the least used accessory in the vehicle. Hope this helps.

Went to library and checked out a repair manual...thank you though.

The power steering pump has an adjustment for tension. You need to be able to swing the pump inwards to loosen the tension. If you look at the pump from the front you should see a hinge bolt, that's closest to the engine. That merely needs to be loosened up. The outer one is for tension, you loosen that and sometimes you have to remove it completely. When you install the new belt be careful of what you use to re-tension it; you can't use a something that will dent or bend the pump housing, you'll ruin it. Use some thing that distributes the force over a large area.

Remove gearbox and replace the whole clutch assemberly.Problem is your thrust bearing as collapsed.Good luck.

check battery voltage and alternator output. Most auto parts stores will check this for you at no charge

Have noticed a leak in the area of your slave cyl? You you have a new one will fix the problem. just install it add fluid, bleed it, ( add fluid reinstall the cover, have someone help or just take the bleed screw loose let the new fluid drain thru. get in and pump the pedal ck the fluid in the res. add fluid. keep this back and forth till you feel a good pedal. done. Work slow, be careful.