20 Most Recent 1993 Hyundai Scoupe - Page 10 Questions & Answers

If your wipers are working fine on normal and fast speeds but not on intermittent, the problem might be with the wiper motor or the relay. You may want to try replacing the wiper relay first, as it is a relatively easy and inexpensive fix. As for the mist and washer functions, it is possible that the wiring has been crossed somewhere or that there is an issue with the switch itself.

Question edited for clarity. There is a workshop manuals in the link and some help. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hyundai+Atos+1.0+conrod+torque+setting ..

Sorry can't help with the wiring, though Autodata usually include wiring and pinouts - just wanted to mention these days a vehicle ECU is likely coded and won't work unless it is recognised by the security system.

When replacing brake pads and rotors on your 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited, it's important to flush the brake fluid to ensure optimal brake performance. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Gather the necessary tools and supplies: brake fluid, a brake bleeder kit, a wrench, and a clear container to collect the old brake fluid.
2. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, which is typically the passenger rear wheel.
3. Locate the brake bleeder valve on the caliper. It's a small valve with a rubber cap on it.
4. Remove the rubber cap and attach the brake bleeder kit to the valve.
5. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times and then hold it down.
6. Open the bleeder valve with the wrench and let the brake fluid flow into the clear container.
7. Repeat this process until you see clear, new brake fluid coming out of the valve.
8. Close the valve and remove the bleeder kit.
9. Repeat the process on each wheel, working your way from the passenger rear to the driver rear, then the passenger front, and finally the driver front.
10. Once you have flushed the brake fluid on all four wheels, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and top it off if needed.
11. Test the brake pedal for firmness and ensure that the brakes are working properly before driving the vehicle.

Following this sequence will ensure that all of the old brake fluid is flushed out of the system and replaced with fresh fluid, which will improve the overall performance and reliability of your brakes.

That will be the least of your problems. If you are removing the head and replacing the valves you will be disconnecting the battery and that erases all the codes. Your biggest issue to get right is the camshaft valve timing. This is a big job for an experienced home mechanic, and is not for the faint of heart. Think carefully if you are up to this task, I have serious doubts that you are. First job is to get a Service Manual and read it cover to cover. Then you need a full set of open ended and ring wrenches, a full metric socket set and a Torque Wrench. Then you will need to hire some tools, a Camshaft locking kit, and a Valve spring compressor to remove the valve collets. You need a full head gasket kit and some gasket sealing compound. Then with new valves you will need a hand held valve grinding tool (a wooden dowel with a rubber suction cup on each end) and a tub of coarse and fine grinding paste (double ended container). You could just remove the head, take it to an engineering company and say '"fix that please". You fail to tell us whey you think you need to undertake this task?

Yes, I can help you with the cylinder head torque wrench setting for your Hyundai Atos 1.0cc. Here are the torque specifications:

First pass: Tighten all bolts to 18 lb-ft (25 Nm)
Second pass: Tighten all bolts to 45 lb-ft (61 Nm)
Third pass: Tighten all bolts to a final torque of 65 lb-ft (88 Nm)
It's important to tighten the bolts in the correct sequence. The sequence is as follows:

10 6 2 3 7
9 5 1 4 8

Note: The numbers above refer to the cylinder head bolts in the correct sequence. Always use a calibrated torque wrench to ensure that the bolts are tightened to the correct specification.

I hope this helps you with your cylinder head installation. If you have any further questions or concerns, feel free to ask.

cam seal that doesnt have anything to cause a p00010 code vvt --oil sludge cam --crank shaft position sensor possible failing where did a cam seal come from ------

The camshaft position sensor on the 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 is located on the side of the engine block, just below the ignition coil packs. It is held in place with a single 10mm bolt. To replace it, you must remove the bolt and then unplug the wiring harness. Once the old sensor is removed, replace it with a new one and plug the wiring harness back in. Finally, reinstall the 10mm bolt and tighten it securely.

How long has it been since it had a new fuel filter?

I have changed fuel filter, air filter and spark plug. Recently I have changed fuel injector at KLT and repaired MAP sensor. This issue could potentially be caused by a wide range of issues, such as a faulty wiring harness, a broken engine component, fuel pump issues, or even a bad ground. It is advised that you take your car to a reputable mechanic to have the vehicle inspected and diagnosed in order to properly pinpoint the problem causing this behavior.

vehicle sounds like in limp mode have scanned for trouble codes-- did wife put diesel in vehicle --what is fuel pressure --when was last tune up --

The battery is only used to power the starter motor, the electronics and the accessories like the lights, AC and radio. Disconnecting it when the engine is running won't stop the engine. This sounds like it might be a faulty sensor somewhere on the engine. You will need to get the vehicle plugged into a diagnostic system or an OBD2 scanner to check for Trouble Codes. These will give clues to where the issue could be. If you have to pay for this service ask at 4 or 5 different places as prices can be VERY different. Comment below with the codes and I'll try to help you more.

It sounds like something not put back correctly or adjusted. Was the slave cylinder arm push in when you bled the system? There may be air behind it. Did you use a pressure bleed system, slave up to Master. Lots of help in the links. https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+6+hyundai+tucson+clutch+master+cylinder+replacement https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+6+hyundai+tucson+clutch+adjustment

If you've already replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body and valves, and added a sealant for a potential block or gasket issue, but are still experiencing rough idling and misfiring in your 2007 Hyundai Getz, there are a few other things to check:

1. Ignition coils: These can sometimes fail and cause misfires and rough idling, even without triggering a check engine light. You may want to test them to see if they're working properly.
2. Fuel injectors: If they're dirty or clogged, they can also cause rough idling and misfires. Try cleaning them or having them professionally cleaned.
3. Vacuum leaks: If there's a leak in the vacuum system, it can cause rough idling and misfires. Check for any cracked or disconnected vacuum lines, and test the vacuum pressure to see if it's within the normal range.
4. Mass airflow sensor: If it's dirty or malfunctioning, it can cause rough idling and misfires. Try cleaning it or replacing it if necessary.
5. Compression test: If all else fails, it's possible that there's an issue with the engine itself, such as low compression in one or more cylinders. You can perform a compression test to check for this.

Some blink because they have a flasher module, but on some, the task is done by the BCM. Help in the link and videos

1. Turn on the CD tuner by pressing the power button.
2. Enter your code numbers to unlock the device if it's necessary.
3. Use the tuning buttons to navigate to the AM or FM radio band.
4. Use the seek or manual tuning buttons to find the desired station.
5. Once you find the desired station, press and hold the preset button to save it to a specific preset location.

If you are having trouble with the CD tuner losing your presets, you may want to try resetting the unit to its factory settings. You can consult your owner's manual

It's possible that the front suspension replacement could have contributed to the ESC malfunction. The ESC system relies on input from various sensors to determine the behavior of the vehicle, including sensors related to the suspension and steering. If these sensors are not functioning correctly or providing incorrect information, it can trigger the ESC and check engine lights to come on. In this case, I would recommend having a professional mechanic perform a thorough diagnostic to determine the root cause of the issue. They may need to check the wiring and connections related to the front suspension and any sensors involved in the ESC system. If the problem persists even after a thorough diagnostic, it may be worth reaching out to Hyundai customer service to see if there is any other potential solution for your particular vehicle. It's possible that there is a known issue with the 2006 Sonata that is not covered by the recall but can still be addressed by the manufacturer.

they are easy.. google Replace passenger side headlight low beam on 2003 hyundai sonata for more info copy and paste https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjzVtrGMsSg

Question edited for typos and add Caps. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hyundai+H100.+How+to+replace+accelerator+cable

factory alarm or 3rd party aftermarket alarm. the latter is hacked in so is obvious it is. so is its horn going off, or not home you to hear it go off im sure you meant key off drain. and on all cars the test is super easy with 1 tool called and AMMETER. 0.050A or 50mA is the max allowed drain. cars with 1 small lampstuck on are1000 mA. this topic has a name car battery phantom drain the tests are like day electric school stuff. why not have shop find it,using said tool or buy the tool and see the10 + postS i made here on phantom drains, (pulling fuses to find it)