20 Most Recent 1997 Saturn SL - Page 4 Questions & Answers

it could be a bad axel or hub bearing

it might be the wiper switch or the multifunction switch worse case wiring issue

sounds to me like the wiper motor may need to be replaced, but before doing that see if there is a wiper relaay in the fuse box, it is a lot cheeper than a motor and it may be as simple as popping it out and putting a new one in. Also check the wiper linkage, it too could just be stripped. Hope this helps. Stay out of the rain. Hope this helps.

The fuse diagram is on the inside of the plastic cover. If you're under the hood in that fuse box simply unscrew the thumb screw and remove it and look inside of it.

If you're in the passenger kick panel then simply remove the cover and look on the inside of it.

Any lights on in the dash area?

Ok, remove the console so you can look at the shifter, there is a plastic piece that attaches the cable to the shifter knob, this breakes, you can go to Saturn ,but they want almost $200 for both cables (they don't sell the plastic piece) BUT THERE IS GOOD NEWS, Napa sells the plastic replacement part at a cost of $20 I am assuming that your car is a manual, part is fairly easy to install,(remove the shifter without removing the cables)
Good luck

It is the kill switch, ever since they but these on used cars they been acting up.

It could be a short in the wiring-a bare wire touching metal, but sometimes an injector will go bad and short out blowing the fuse. Try unplugging all the injectors, then put new fuse in and turn key on. If fuse blows again, it must be a bad wire in the injector circuit. Each injector has a power wire and a ground wire, the power wire probably derives from the engine computer, and the ground wire definitely goes to the computer. If the fuse didn't blow right away, try connecting one injector at a time (key on). If connecting one injector causes the fuse to blow-that is a shorted injector. It will have to be replaced.If connecting all injectors did not blow the fuse, try the wiggle test on the wires, with key on. You may cause the fuse to blow by wiggling or moving a section of wire, and that is the likely source of the short. Separate the wires and examine them closely. Look for exposed wire, melted insulation, things like that. Look for where the wiring harnesses may chaff or rub against something, may be stretched or stressed. If you still can't find it, you may need to run continuity or resistance tests on each individual injector wire. For that you would need a multimeter, a good digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) at a reasonable price is a necessity for automotive work.

Did you remove the wheel and watershield and go thru the wheel well, or are you trying it from above? It can be done from above, but if you're having trouble, it might be better to remove the wheel and the watershield, so you can get easier access to the pulley. If the bolt heads are stripped, you might need to get a new belt tensioner, which looks to be around $50+ new, but they shouldn't be expensive from a junkyard.Getting direct access might help you get it done without needing a new one.Hope that helps. Good luck! :)

First we need to figure out what you mean by doesn't start. Can you hear the starter cranking the engine over? If no than check for power at the smaller wire on the starter while the key is in the crank position. If there is power and the starter does not engage than replace the starter. If you can hear the starter cranking the engine over than check fuel pressure. It should be 35 to 40 psi and hold steady when the key is shut off. If it drops fast pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator to see if there is fuel coming out. If there is replace the regulator if there is. It and fuel pressure is still dropping replace the fuel pump. If the fuel pump checks out check for spark next. Let me know what you find with the above and well see if we can't get this figured out. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

U got a damage oil seals in the plug housing! Replacing it, needs to take off the VALVE COVER and spark plugs. Check how the seals seat on ur valve cover, sometimes it needs to be cleaned up and put a silicone gasket maker, that will seal everything!

Simple tell you there is a valve inside the transmission, the ends of the valve are respectively throttle control oil pressure, oil pressure and speed when you step on the gas inside the valve throttle pressure increases the transmission oil, pushing through change down to one side after a series of relations between the transmission will be blocked, as the speed of high-speed hydraulic control are on the rise, until after the oil pressure is higher than the throttle inside the valve to the other side through the transmission shift up oil, after a series of relations between the transmission blockwant know more this web

Late model cars use the brake m/cyl resevoir as asupply for the clutch system. Check for a line from theclutch m/cyl to a point in the brake m/cyl resevoir. If not follow the line back to the resevoir.