20 Most Recent 1991 Saturn SL Questions & Answers

I would ohm check the injectors with a multi meter. If the #1 injector is significantly different than the other three than you found the problem. The other possibility is the dark green wire is shorted to ground. All the injectors are supplied power by the pink with black wire. Each injector is then controlled by the pcm. If the dark green wire is not shorted to ground than a noid light would be needed to see if the PCM driver for that injector has failed allowing the injector to stay permanently on and essentially flooding the engine until it stalls. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

I'm rather guessing, but the #1 injector could be shorted to ground.

idle air control valve and clean throttle body

the idle air control valve can cause the symptoms your describing and it may not set a trouble code have it replaced and see if that repairs your issue

place your body weight over the strut and push the car up and down,a bad strut will give no resistance and will feel soft, as the car will do when driven over a uneaven surface.come back to me with result and i will tell you how to replace.adrian,,,,

First make sure you have lots of gas in the tank, between a quarter and half. Turn the ignition on and listen for a humming or buzzing noise coming from the tank. The fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If there is no noise you will have to check for a blown fuse. No bad fuses, change the fuel pump.
If the pump runs, remove the fuel line from the tank end of the filter and turn the key on for a secoond or 2. If there is lots of fuel then replace the filter. If fuel just dribbles replace the pump.
If you have to work on the fuel pump, make sure the electrical connections are not corroded and are not loose. Also check the rubber hoses at the connection. Sometimes they will go soft and collapse, plugging the fuel line. Make sure you put the fuel lines back on properly. Hope this helps.

Code 48 is a anti lock braking system malfunction,i would suggest you take it to a repair shop to have them diagnose it properly.

The starter is located in the back of the motor, just under the intake manifold

Sounds ike the fuel pump died. As they get old and your car is about that age the start to overheat after being in use for a while. They stop pushing out the fuel consistantly and then stop working all together. Sometimes letting them cool back down will allow you to use it for a short while before it dies again but in your case it sounds like it just gave out. Remember fuel in the tank helps cool the pump when in use.

Tis is a good place to start, good luck.


Joe

it is likely the relay that is stuck on .... if it's not labled in the fuse box let me know and i'll find out which one it is

The wiz is abslutely correct. When you have it repaired just make sure that the mechanic who works on it verifies that the window is still firmly secured in the rail.

Both are driven only if it’s positive traction.

After two transmissions and a computer, presumably installed and checked/monitored by a specialist with a laptop loaded with the proper software, the gear engagement and changes should be as near perfect as it is possible to achieve. This must lead to a suspicion something external to the transmission is causing the trouble - worn drive shafts, soft or defective engine mounts, misalignment...

Clear all the codes and then drive it about 10 miles then check the codes again. You need to find out if there is actually spark coming out of the wires on each cylinder. What you are describing almost sounds like a vacuum leak. Listen for any hissing coming from the engine compartment and make sure all the hoses are attached and not pinched or broken or have holes in them. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/kim_3202917d7c587455

hangon. your leaving something out. myguess is you had the ebrake pulled so the car didn't roll when it was in gear. and now the car wont move at all or what? you left alot of important info out. if it is running and wont move at any point you broke something in the trany or a driveshaft. you should not be able to shift the trany into any gear if the engine is running. the clutch is turning and unless the clutch is disengaged you wont be able to shift. knowing that i am guessing you broke it good and need a new trany

the sound you describe sounds more like the belt lose, would check that first. auxiliary belt. if the sound goes away it will prob be that.

the sensor that controls the mixture is the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) in the exhaust manifold compression is low as it should be no less that 125 psi that is if the readings were taken with the throttle wide open the noise in the exhaust indicates unburnt mixture accumulating in the muffler to flash off check for a crack in the flex section of the exhaust near the manifold