20 Most Recent 2002 Porsche 911 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

from underneath the car, in front of the engine there are some coolant hoses. there you will find a fitting which allows you to bleed the system. do not let this car overheat! also leave the cap off the reservoir to help bubble escape.

the convertible top close miro switch is located in the left "B" pillar. left side if the windshield.

it sounds like your catalitic converters could be cloged, but also exaust sytems do make like a tink tink tink sound cause well, heat causes metal and most things to exspand and when the cool down really fast the contract and will make a litle tink sound.

i thnk its the cartridge oil filter head ,but not entirely sure without my greasy hands under the bonnet

Hello there
In your left rear fender behind the fender lining is an "Emergency operating cable"to manualy open the lid.

proporsche

These are bumper removal procedures you only need to go as far as the side light ..

check your coil,you probably burnt it out turning it over continously-
hope that helps

The electrical component of the switch is prone to failure. This often seems to cause the key to become stuck in the ignition. It's a fairly easy and inexpensive fix. Try this...
http://industryfigure.com/berkeley/Porsche/ignitionswitch.htm

That should help you out.

There is at tool for emergency operation that you'll need to use to manually operate the flap and put it into the full down position. After that the top should be able to be closed using the switch as normally unless you have other problems. Also try this :--- remove the rear carpet cover from behind the back seats (2 phillip screws), use a flashlight and you will see the rotating parts screw like lifter. Grease this screw and then check. Check the convertible top control unit. The control unit located under the drivers side footwell, sort of under the dash vent. The part is a real pain to get out since it located on top of another electronic box with a VDO label on it.Check the connectors of the control unit.Wiggle the connections and check if top moves. The control unit is housed in a plastic case which comes apart easily. Look closely at the one of the connector pin solder joints, it is easy to see where the problem is. There can be a crack in the solder joint around one of the pins. Carefully heat up the soldering iron and re-flow all the solder joints on the pins adding a little extra solder. Then put all things back together and give it a try. --------------------- And there is a micro switch. the microswitch on the emergency brake. There is a copper conductor that attaches to the back of the brake arm under the center console. It can come loose and loose its contact with the switch.Check that also.--------------- Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

That should be the cruise control light. Behind the steering wheel, lever on bottom right has an on/off switch.

If the battery is completely dead you should buy a new one. Batteries get damaged when they completely discharge. Just put in the new one and start. You might have the emission light go on after a start from a dead battery. Reset it yourself with an OBDII tool or your dealer can reset it. You can drive there at least on your own this way.

In the manual there should be a description on how to set the car door lock. You can chose between don't lock when driving, lock when starting to drive and unlock only driver door when unlocking. Your car dealer can help you with this minor information in case it is not in the manual. There should be a also a button in the car for locking and unlocking from the inside on the dashboard top right.

In the manual there is a detail instruction on how to connect a battery to the fusebox to provide power to open the lid. Once the trunk is open you can start the car with some help from there. After you got your engine going there is a good chance that the emission light in the dashboard will come on (indicating an engine problem). In my experience there is no problem with the engine, but since the sensor was powered down I think it registers it wrongly. You can take it to the shop to reset the light and check emissions or you can do it with an OBDII tool yourself. If it comes on again then you should definitely take it to the shop. Also make sure you buy a new battery since they tend to get damaged if they are discharged completely.

could it be that the joints of the hood have rusted slightly(bonded)together,or that when you stored it you released the hood then switched it off(you then closed it manually?)then tried to open it...the strain will blow a fuse!

generally its self adjust by seat driver adjust

sensor malfunction somewhere. take it to the dealer have em hook it up to their computer readout and it will tell you exactly which sensor is causing the alarm to trip. it may be as simple as just unhooking that sensor, depending if its a normally open or closed switch

I'm not sure what you mean by "under amped", but if the car is running, which it has to for the A/C to function, then no. As long as the engine is running, the A/C should work. The most common problem that prevents A/C operation is low system pressure from a small leak over time. There is a sensor in the system that looks at pressure in the lines and if it is too low it will not allow the A/C compressor to run. You could try charging the system with one of those kits from an auto parts store. It may be enough to turn the switch on and activate the system, however the correct way to repair it would be to leak check the system with dye and then recharge it after making repairs. This can be very expensive, a lot of people with your problem just opt for a quickie recharge every spring.

fuel pressure regulator

Hi! Yes you can mix them up... they are both coolant anyways. But the best thing to do is flush the fluid till its clear then put in the new coolant. Hope this helps and have a good one!