20 Most Recent 1987 Jaguar XJ6 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

these things are notorius for having weak oil pumps. get one through Carquest auto parts. They can get OEM part through their World Pac division for 1/2 price of Jaguar. Alot of people say the heck with it and put Chevy 350 in it's place( It's a popular thing), and they love it that way.

Hi,

A glowing CAT means it is receiving raw fuel. You may run out of money replacing parts before you find the problem unless you test to find the problem and only replace the part that is bad.

There are many things that can cause excess fuel to go into the exhaust so you need to start from scratch.

1. Do a compression test FIRST. Throttle open, wires off of one side of the coil, at least 4 or 5 revolutions on each cylinder tested and the results MUST be 135 to 165 PSI on each cylinder and little difference between all cylinders.

2. Run a fuel pressure test. 32 PSI with vacuum applied to the pressure regulator and about 42 PSI with no vacuum.

3. Test all outside ways for fuel to enter the combustion chamber other than the injectors. Ie, vacuum hose on the pressure regulator, cold start injector. (replacing a part is NOT a test) Warm the engine first and then remove the fuel line from the cold start valve (injector) and plug the line and clamp it.

4. If you don't have access to a scope, you need to check each plug wire with an ohm meter and clean and check each spark plug. Carefully examine the inside and outside of the cap for carbon tracking.

5. Test the injection system coolant temp censor.
0 deg C. = 5.9 Kilohms
+20 deg C. = 2.5 Kilohms
+40 deg C. = 1.18 Kilohms
+60 deg C. = .60 Kilohms
+80 deg C. = .325 Kilohms
Note the progression in readings so you only need to test at a couple of temp settings to see that it is close to these figures.

6. Set ignition timing to specs.

7. Check that the throttle position switch ONLY connects pin #3 and #18 at close to full throttle.

8. The airflow meter is a major factor in fuel mixture however it is not easily tested other than to check that the flap is not stuck open or that the return spring on the flap door is not broken. This is a carbon variable resistor that feeds info to the ECU as to what volume of air is entering the engine plus a switch to activate the fuel pump.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

You may very well have mixed the wiring up. You may also have accidently knocked a vacuum hose loose. Check all vacuum hose connections. Go to this web site at About.com and check to see you have everything hooked up correctly. http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-11979.htm

Base on the three sentences information post,I can only give you general guide lines.

Is it possible to give me a little more history on this vehicle?

air
fuel
spark
and compression.

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Make sure air filter is not restricted.














Clean mass air flow sensor with CRC MAF clear or electronic part cleaner.

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Make sure the air inlet tube has no leak after the mass air flow sensor.

The inrush of air after the MAF sensor will off set the fuel mixture.

Use quality tape to ensure a tight seal on the air inlet tube.

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Check service record the last fuel filter change. I recommend 24,000 miles to 36K miles interval.

As a test fill but not TOP off the tank to rule out a weak fuel pump.

A weak fuel pump will have a hard time on pumping level below 1/5 tank.

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Check the cap,rotor and wires. Pull one wire at a time and check for corrosion. Dielectric grease will help to keep the connectors clean.

The grease is able $1.00.......it is a good investment.


Check for loose and dirty connection and connector to the coil.


Check the primary and secondary resistance to nake sure the coil is within spec.

If the coil is over 8 years old then would replace it.

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Check and gap the plugs.

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Did you do a compression test at the shop?

If you have the readings then please post them.

===
On an older car,you should put the car on the lift to inspect the engine and transmission mount also.


Please POST ALL THE INFORMATION you got.

I will follow up on this post.

Depending on milage, check timing.

If the brake lines and fluid is clear then you may have to look at the brake booster found at the other end of the brake pedal under the hood...

Problem not resolved, but not comfortable with advice outside UK. Thanks anyway.

it lifts from the back and tilts foreward ,their are two cables running from the interior lever ,best thing is for you have a look at another one and if you can jack car up and try to reach each lever in turn with a long screwdriver and push or pull it with a wire .best of british with it

check all leads coming from the battery with an ohm meter, should read zero, no resistance, make sure you do this test with the battery dis-conected otherwise you can burn out the meter or the fuse in the meter. if you need more help get back to me

The bushings on rack-and-pinion steering mounts may have disintegrated and need to be replaced.
which will create slack in the steering when ever you drive it . The ball joints could and control arm bushings could also be worn inspect them for ware.

Does your dash light up to indicate you have a battery source or power? If yes you have power try starting it in neuatral or in another gear. If it starts in neatrual maybe your selector going bad. If it starts in other gears repair the shift selector. Three If no power indicated check fuses. four will motor crank or turn over if yes look for a drivability problem. If no final maybe bad ignition switch. Need to replace ignition switch. Probably time for service

Have you checked the alternator? The alternator may not be charging the battery. With engine running, check the voltage at the battery (it should be ~14V). If it's less than that, your battery won't charge properly. You can take your alternator to auto store to have it load tested also to be sure. Sometime alternator issues don't show up until it gets hot. Defective alternators have also been known to drain the battery after the car has stopped.

Replace fuel filter. While this is off see if pump will pump fuel into a cup. If it does not then its the pump.

have the transmission cable checked. mine had broke, i had it repaired and now it drives fine

5W30

10-w30. this is a good universal oil for many vehicles with cast iron heads.

Hi

One of the 2 Fuel line solenoid valves are shot, each are located behind the rear wheels, behind the little dirt plate cover.

Common fault on Ser 3, and quite dangerous, and costly.

Good Luck !

A FixYa would be nice....Thank´s....John

John

Haynes and SNG Barrat in england have it.......Not all but meny

Bay the brackets for round light frome a donor car and reeplace and bay new light glas. That not expensive in norway - so it easy