20 Most Recent 2003 Saturn VUE - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Valve body. You have a sticking valve. When you manually shift it into first, you force the sticking valve to move(pressure). There could be a couple other problems, But they are still in the valve body.

switch is bad change it. have a nice day

You always need to drop the transaxle in any vehicle to change the transmission because its located right between the flywheel of your motor and your transaxle.

Saturn parts are hard to get if the vehicle is more than 10 years old.

mine did the same thing. Where the steering column goes through the firewall (floor) there is a rubber seal. That seal has gotten dry. Apply a small amount of lube where the shaft goes through and turn the steering wheel. This helped eliminate my squeal.

Several components help a car start: 1) Starter, 2) Battery, 3) Camshaft sensor, 4) Crankshaft sensor, 5) Fuel pump, 6) Coils/Plugs. Start by testing each of those to ensure spark is reaching plugs on a consistent basis. If u can hear fuel pump - and you are sure fuel is in the tank (sometimes the fuel sending unit goes out, making you THINK fuel is there...). Cover each of those, and it should start...if the security system isn't being signaled to stay activated...security can also prevent a start... :-)

hola buenas tardes tengo una saturn vue 2003 4 cilindros automatica motor 2.3 awd si da para delante y para atras pero cuando se calienta camina muy pesada y con mucho ruido

The signal lever is attached to what is called a "multi function switch" it really isn't too hard to change, you have to remove the steering column trim and then you can access the switch. Simply unbolt it from the column and unplug the wire connector.

I moo too, but thats OK , I am a cow

Take it to a shop. Big job, engine support cradle needed. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453

Replace the ignition relay as well.

Check that the vacuum line for the transmission has been hooked up properly. Stay on the mechanics back until he can tell you exactly what the fault is as it happened after the reconditioned box was fitted. and it is his responsibility to fix what he did wrong.

Well son, there are MANY reasons that might cause "fluttering" in your gauge. Mine started doing that, then I started getting a warning LIGHT for overheating. My solution for that was a fault in my fan. There are 2 speeds on my VUE'S electric fan. The one that required attention was speed/high (the speed/low was working). If your getting an intermittent short, watch both the temperature and fuel gauges to make sure it's not a real (both will do the "fluttering at the same time if it's faulty short) overheating problem. If you have an OCD-2 reader, plug it in under the driver's dashboard and go to function "live" read the engine temperature. If that's normal it will be between 120F-200F. Faults may be relays in the under-hood fuse panel (there either good or bad, you can't see anything like other fuses) and there are the 30 amp or 10 amp fuses inside the same fuse block for that electric fan.. I've found that if I open the hood and start your car, after it warms up, there are tree things that could happen. 1: the low fan starts up, then start your A/C, the high fan speed comes on (normal, check your temp gauge). 2: After you warm it up, the low speed fan starts up, but with the A/C on, the high speed fan isn't coming on (bad high speed fuse or relay). 3: after warm up, the low speed fan doesn't come on, but starting the A/C the low speed fan comes on (bad sensor I think). I've had a ghost in my VUE since I bought it, gone through 3 computers, CVT sensors, key won't turn without destroying the key. One time, I used the horn to get some deer off the road and the damned thing wouldn't shut off. While I was under the hood trying to get it to turn off, TWO cops stopped, they shined their flashlights on the fuse block and one on the diagram for me to pull the right fuse. I took it out, plugged it back in and it worked again! The shop didn't find a thing wrong with it, but the thing works still.s

I had this happen in my buick.. Is your security light on?? look over this site it has a part that u can put in yourself and it will fix it.

I'm not really sure of your question But in either case if your using to much gas or feel the car is geting to much gas. the car is 11years old keep that in mind. If your not the first owner I doubt a major tune-up has not been done. First I would have the fuel regulator checked out. If on is cheaper than a diagnostic fee just change it. remember most have a vacumm line attached pull it off to see if you have vacumm, if not check downstream to see if the hose came off or is clogged. Now back to the tune-up. And I mean a complete tune-up spark plugs, wires,airfilter, fuel filter and an oil change. But the most important is a professional fuel injection service and not one where they put chemical in the gas tank. Alot of shops have a machine that is connected to the fuel rail and the gas tank is disconnected and the car is ran on a special chemical for about 30 or 40 minutes. What could be happening one or more fuel injectors could be stuck open due to dirt. This service may help and cure your problem. There is always a possibility a fuel injector is bad also. One way to tell if you know where the fuel injectors are is to take a stethoscope and listen to each one The ticking sound should be very close in each one. Example 15 ticks in 10 seconds. If you hear one that seems to be slower it is the one staying open the longest. Replace it or do the service and see if that fuel injector improves The complete service will increase your gas milage for sure.

Switch doesn't turn ? Switch doesn't do anything? Get access to it & test it

This might give you some answers I hope... to me it sounds like a security issue

check your furl pump for proper pressure