20 Most Recent 2003 Saturn VUE - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The P0304 indicates the #4 cylinder is misfiring. The flashing light means the cylinder is not firing at all...It could be several things causeing it, coil, wires, plug, injector or vacuum leak. Do not drive your vehicle until you have this repaired, as it will lead to further more costly problems. Good luck, i hope this helps.

Does the car loose power before stalling or does it simply die without warning? If it loses power first, you're likely looking at a fuel pump or fuel system problem. If it just dies, you probably have an ignition problem. Does the check engine light come on before it dies?

Sounds like you mite need an ignition switch. But just to be sure you should have the modules scanned for codes , especially the body control module ! Are any warning lights staying on ,check ENG , A symbol of a wrench lit up or a picture of a lock symbol ? This car has a few electronic control modules and there all talk back an forth on a serial data bus . This car has two ! Class 2 Data Line Saturn utilizes the class 2 communications system for most vehicle system controllers that must exchange data and commands. Class 2 data is pulse width modulated. The pulse width modulation of class 2 data allows better utilization of the data line. The messages carried on class 2 data streams are also prioritized. This means if 2 devices try to communicate on the data line at the same time, only the higher priority message will continue. The device with the lower priority message must wait. The modules on the class 2 data line are: ?€¢ Body Control Module (BCM)

?€¢ Power Steering Control Module (PSCM)

?€¢ Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC)

?€¢ Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)

€¢ Vehicle Communication Interface Module (VCIM), if equipped Controller Area Network (CAN) The controller area network (CAN) serial data line is a high speed serial data bus used to communicate traction information between the electronic brake control module (EBCM), the engine control module (ECM), the body control module (BCM), and the transaxle control module (TCM). Typical data-transmission speeds must be high enough to ensure that the required real-time response is maintained. The addressing scheme employed with CAN assigns a label to every message, with each message receiving a unique identifier. The identifier classifies the content of the message, such as engine speed. Each module processes only those messages whose identifiers are stored in the module's acceptance list. This is CAN's form of message filtering. The identifier labels both the data content and the priority of the message being sent. Each module can begin transmitting its most important data as soon as the bus is unoccupied. When more than one module starts to transmit simultaneously, the message with the highest priority is assigned first access. A module responds to failure to gain access by automatically switching to receive mode. The module then repeats the transmission attempt as soon as the bus is free again. You need to have a professional scan tool to check for codes in the modules other than the engine ecm module. I have seen a bad instrument cluster short the bus and cause the vehicle shut down . hope this helps ! First place to start is checking for codes in all the modules. If there is a problem with one of them ,it usually sets a code in one of the other modules !

the quickest way is to pull hard on the belt it shouldpull out might be tough but should work otherwise the cover will have to click off usually theres not a bolt holding it but really try to get it pulled back through hope this works for you

You won't know why the engine light is on unless you get the OBDII port hooked to a scanner to get the code or codes that have been cited by the ECM (Engine Control Module). You should do this first, especially since you notice a problem with the trans-a malfunctioning trans is very expensive to repair and can be fatal in very short order. you can get it scanned for free at numerous retail auto parts operations like Advance Auto, Auto Zone, Aamco transmissions (be aware they will try to sell you something-be prepared to say thanks and investigate the actual codes, so write them down).

The hood will take getting underneath the front of the car and figuring out a way to pull the cable to the latch-some disassembly may be necessary to put yourself in a position to do this, some are easy to do and some are quite difficult. A good body shop should be able to do this for you without it costing a lot of money.

As the same with a trunk lock a foriegn object can can get in between the lock and latch. Lucky for you and even better if the back seats folds down you have an easier access. Now crawl into the rear taking with you a 2 screw drivers,pliers and needle nose pliers. look for something stuck in between the door and the jam if so try to pull it out. If you don't see anything try this, get one person to put key in door and another to push the electric lock while you push on door. If that doesn't work you'll have to rake the door panel apart be carefull not to break the plastic after 11 years it does become fragile. once inside the door try to release it manually the cable may have broken

Possible that the ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor) is faulty, or the wiring to it has been compromised. Try looking the wiring over. If nothing jumps out at you, replace the sensor. Keep in mind, it's the season for critters to seek warmth from engine heat.

So does the Trip odometer work? Does the odometer work? If you answer is "sort of", does the odometer return to the same mileage every time your 2003 Saturn VUE sits overnight? The VUE has an all electronic odometer sensor that is in the transmission, so you may need to replace that. I also agree with JDCamped that those wires may need replaced, but the mice? I would think burned/shorted in a wiring harnes is far more common and you should see a "Check Engine" light. The cluster just shows the data from the sensors, if they are blank, then that is the cluster.

Engine needs to crank over strong and steady to have a chance of starting. Youi said it has a poor crank. Battery may be low or bad. If you get the engine to crank over corrrectly and it srill does not start check fuel pressure, spark and injector pulse.

sounds like a stretched linkage cable

Were were told pure nonsense by those mechanics Forget other folks vehicle problems All vehicles worldwide have many issues They can do a Parasitic Current Test -- by leaving all the doors closed & the key out of the ignition & have an Amp Meter in either battery cable,then you wait for all modules & relay's to time out (go to sleep) IF-- you have a current draw over 50 to 60 Milli-Amps after an hour --you have to start pulling fuses, to locate the circuit with a problem & your battery drain For your Alternator-- there are many tests & ways to do them,so do not assume the shops you went to, are on their game My guess is that no shop has actually put time into the problem & there may be many reasons why. That part I won't share with you,as it is not easy in that business dealing with the public, that hate you & the prices you charge.

If it is not iwritten n your owners manual in the glovebox then you will have to get it from the dealer(need ownership)

because you have disconnected and replaced the battery ,it is possible that the CPU program in the ECM is corrupted. Use a scanner to reset the program and go from there.

check down near the steering box/ rack that it is tight on the splined shaft. Lock bolt fallen out or universal joint failure.

Go to ebay spend a couple bucks to buy an owner's manual for the vehicle, put it in the glove box.
Open the glove box, pull out the owner's manual and look in the index under radio and/or clock, note page numbers.
Turn to that page and select the type of radio/clock you have and follow the instructions to set the clock.
Drink a small bottle of wine, smoke a joint and ponder why you could not figure this out yourself.

these are located in the doors , if the noise is else where its most likely a relay

The starter motor solenoid is sticking on.....it is part of the starter motor so will need replacing!

The coils are on the valve covers. Here is a picture. #2 cylinder is in the front head and is on the far left.

check the battery connections are clean and TIGHT as a loose battery connection would cause these symptoms , check the earth for corrosion etc as well

no you have a idrulic clutch