technician from Saturn Said he didn't know what the problem is ????? There are no Saturn dealers any more . You better find someother qualified repair shop .
U may have a head or head gasket leaking coolant into the combustion chamber. Check ur coolant level closely and also see if u have a higher than normal pressure. Just a guess here but maybe. Hope it helps. :)
-Why you want to hook up a switch to the fan...? You want to turn it on when you want?
-No Problem. Here some basic installation.
-Connect the hot wire to the positive (+) battery terminal.
-Connect both left over wire to the switch. Then connect 1 wire from the other side of the switch to ground. you should be good to cool down.
Good lucj
Mai
Make sure the battery has a full charge and all connections good. Then check your charging system. Right now I'm thinking, check your charging system.
Do you have a voltmeter on your dash, what does it do when you step on the brake? It may drop a little, but, it should recover.
What are your going by ? Temperature gauge ? Is the coolant boiling in the engine ? Do the cooling fans run ? did you change the Thermostat , water pump ?
have you inspected and tested your shift solenoids? There's 5 of them and you can access them without going underneath the car. The solenoid housing is under the car battery
I am not an expert on auto horns, but can solve most electrical problems. Do you have a multimeter? Using the ohm-meter, measure the ohm value between the two wires, and from each wire to the horn mounting bracket (you need contact with un-painted metal. The value between the wires should be low (10-100 ohms) but not zero. This represents the horn coil. The value between each wire and the bracket should be very high (10 kilohms or more). This means the horn coil is not grounded to the bracket.
Now, using the voltmeter, measure the voltage between each wire (from one wire to another). The value should be zero before pressing the horn button, and 12 vdc when the horn button is pressed. I would expect one of the wires will also be zero ohms (ohmmeter) when measured to the car frame or body.
Ok, you are ready to hook up the horn. The auto ground wire(s) are connected to a horn wire that is common with the horn bracket. Or, connected to a black horn wire if both horn wires are isolated from the bracket. Connect the auto switch wire (the one that reads 12 vdc when the horn button is pressed) to the remaining horn wire.
Transmission gear boxes have synchronizers to aid in the shifting of your car. It is very typical for the synch for 1st gear to wear out first as it gets used the most. You should have then all replaced.
This is actually a relatively easy fix. First you need to get a vacuum pump to remove the freon currently in your system it\'s illegal to release it in the atmosphere. You can rent the pump and hoses at autozone for 300$ which is completely refundable once you return it. 1. Vacuum the a/c system completely 2. Remove your serpentine belt 3. Remove the hose and electrical connector from your ac compressor.4. remove the bolts connecting the a/c compressor to the bracket (I think there are only three)and that\'s all you need to do to remove your compressorreverse the process to install your new one but make sure its filled with the proper ammount and type of a/c oil. Vacuum the a/c system again because it works better with negative pressure. Then refill it with the correct ammount of r-134a freon I\'d suggest use a can freon with uv dye so you can check for leaks in your system using a black light. If there is a leak you\'ll need to vacuum your system again and replace the defective part and fill it back up with freon. I hope this helps good luck a/c systems can be tricky.
Under hood where shift cable or two if manual, you will see a metal spring that goes around cable right next to where metal rod extends and retracts to provide shifting. On end farther away from shiny rod is a normally white piece of plastic before turns black and heads into car. In this white piece of plastic is a square normally yellow or pink but could be white or same, dig at all four corners of square piece and pull up word perpedictular to cable when it pulls I p approximately 1 inch, then it will pop free and cable will not be hooked to output shinny metal rod. If break switch applied park lock works and transmission is in park you could push square plastic clip back into place. If this doesn't remove unwanted travel or adjustment, I have had to block the wheels, set park brake and shift shifter into manual drive 1. And on transmission do the same, useually tword the cable as shifting into 1st is pulling on cable then cable pulls on trans, when both in same location or desired reinsert clip. Couldn't find picture but just as good. Here is someone doing what I tried to explain. Little different cable then I picture in my head but done to many to count. Here ya go
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/christpher_f760d0f18f8eedc3
Hood releases are typically a braided steel cable that runs from the handle inside the car to the latch under the hood. A couple things could be wrong. Commonly, the cable is stretched; you feel the cable pulling when pulling the handle, but nothing happens. You can pull the handle as far as it will go, then use a pair of pliers to grab the cable and pull it even more. If the handle doesn't move, the cable housing could have been compromised or water has found its way in causing the cable to rust and seize inside the housing. Either way, an auto repair shop could help you out if you are unsure of working on it yourself.
