20 Most Recent 1996 Saturn SL - Page 8 Questions & Answers

i ran in to a similar problem years ago , the spark plugs were bad ,old,and weak.be sure to use delco plugs that are specific to that engine

Soft reset is disconnecting the negative cable battery few minutes; if your codes come on again, need some scanner reader codes tool to know what code is stored and diagnostic to solve it.

Feel free to contact us in this code link, if you need additional details.

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You can just go to a dealer and they will know what the code is. Some cars have a sticker of the code in the glove box or owners manual.

Your door locks are powered by the BODY 10 Amp fuse in the Instrument Panel Fuse Block. (Center of instrument panel) This fuse also has several other things that are powered by it including the dome lamps and the Data Link connector for your Computer system. I highly recommend diagnosing the problem and finding the actual cause.

Also please read this article: Where's The Fuse?

under the plastic cover you should be able to pop the linkage back into place

if it is attached to a spring loaded arm it is a tension puller, otherwise it is an idler, the idler is known to be an issue, you can unbolt it easy enough but is a bit tricky squeezing it past the wheel well unless you jack up the engine a little bit.bring the old pulley with you when you go for a new one just to be sure they give you the right one.

A code P0118 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
A bad connection at the sensor An open in the ground circuit between the ECT sensor and the PCM A short in the voltage feed between the sensor and the PCM A bad PCM (less likely) A bad temperature sensor (shorted internally) Possible Solutions
First, if you have access to a scan tool, check the reading of the coolant sensor. Does it read a logical number? If so, the problem is likely intermittent. Perform a "wiggle" test by wiggling the connector and harness to the sensor while watching the reading on the scan tool. Watch for any drop-outs. Drop-outs would indicate a bad connection. If the scan tool reads an illogical temperature, check the resistance of the temperature sensor. If it is out of specs, replace it. If it is in specifications, unplug the sensor and, using a fused jumper wire, jumper the two terminals of the connector together. The temperature reading should now be maxed out to above 250 degrees F. If not, there is likely a problem with the ground circuit or voltage supply.
Check for 5 volts reference voltage at the connector. Also check for ground presence at the connector. If you do not have 5V ref. and/or ground continuity, check for these back at the PCM connector. If you have these at the PCM connector, then repair open or short between the PCM and the sensor. If you do not, remove the offending wire from the PCM and then check for proper voltage at the PCM pin. If it's present now, repair short on the circuit. If it isn't present after removing the wire and checking the pin, replace PCM
NOTE: Usually, P0118 is indicative of a bad temperature sensor, but doesn't rule out these other possibilities. If you're unsure of how to diagnose a PCM, do not attempt.

the best way to fix it is to pull it out and exchange it for a rebuilt engine. oil consumption is a sign of wear, and it is 15 years old so it has some wear on it,

take the console out and look under the shifter, if the shifter cables are disconnected from the shifter go to a parts store or ebay and get yourself a Saturn shifter bushing repair kit. happens all the time to S Saturns and maybe the Ls look on youtube for instructions to remove console and put on the bushing kit.

if the shifter cables are still connected you may have to be looking around for a lower mileage used transmission. 96-98 saturn will fit so long as the donor car has the same head, being DOHC or SOHC. so if you have an SL1 you can use a transmission out of another SL1, or an SC1, or an SW1. do not mix a 2 with a 1, bad mojo.

is it an SL1 or 2?
the starter is in the back of the engine on firewall side
if you have a test light have someone hold the key to start and check for voltage on the solenoid trigger wire (the thin one), if you have voltage tap the starter and it should turn

www.getsaturnparts.com

handles only new oem parts & accessories for all models of the saturn

note that horn has a built in relay and is only interchangeable with other such horns.
96-99 saturn

A timing belt gives no sign, its a scheduled replacement. See if cam is turning while trying to crank engine. If its not, the belt is broken. The engine will usually crank faster than normal because there isnt any compression.

like a new clutch like when you bought it new has nothing to do with engine if the cluctch isn't right then job wasn't done right

Well start by checking transmission fluid, condtion and fluid level, if empty, or burnt and black the transmission is bad, and sound like it is a transmission problem regardless if while in gear does not move.

It sounds like vacuum is not getting to the vent, heat and A/C controls. Find the vacuum can. It may be under the hood on one of the inner fenders. The "one-way" check valve is usually located in the line and close to the can, make sure it works properly. The valve could be the very thing that's causing the problem. Trace the lines back to the vacuum block at the intake manifold or fire-wall, and also back to where the line goes thru the fire-wall. Check the can for leaks or obvious holes. They used to be just a plain metal can, but it could be a plastic ball. Check the lines as you go, for breaks and rub-thru's. Move the controls thru all settings and listen for vent door movement. Worst case is a bad vacuum motor or air flow position selector switch, and/or a faulty Blend Door Actuator. If you have been driving around with the Temperature knob or control set at the same spot for months, move it from fully cold to fully hot several times and wait for the air temperature to change each time. This will help reset the blend door and vacuum control system. Hope this helps... Let me know what you find.

I'm guessing you're trying to get the light to flash for codes maybe?
If this is the case you cannot do that with OBDII. Most auto parts stores will hook up a code reader to get what codes are stored for free.

Probably the sending unit, and cost about $30.
The test of the gauges is to remove wire from sending unit and watch gauge go to lowest, then ground the wire and watch it go to highest.
If it does, then not a problem with gauge. So must be sending unit.

it is hydraulic activated, there is no adjustment. there is a small master cylinder attached to your clutch pedal, and it operates a small slave cylinder which moves the throwout bearing in and out.

the thermostat is never the culprit, if it is bad the engine will tell you, not the heater. the heater core needs to be replaced. get a book or CD to show you how. good luck.

No, a bad gas wouldn't allow the engine to start at all. Either you have dirt or water in the fuel tank - wash it - or you have a bad electrical contact: either in the ignition key switch or the wiring located in the dash that connects it to the ECM and the fuel pump. To check that the steering column shrouds will have to be removed to access the switch and its connections - there measure the voltage across the switch's contacts when the engine shuts down; if the voltage is absent on the contacts then the switch is faulty and it will have to be replaced; if it's there the wiring will have to be tested, all the connections along its path to the ECM and the fuel pump verified .