20 Most Recent 1996 Saturn SL - Page 6 Questions & Answers

you can buy a new cylinder at most auto parts stores if you remove the plastic covers and you can turn the ignition enough to get it into the acc position there is a small release on the back side push it in and pull the cylinder out

this is a Hard situation, but you must ask some friends yours, and ask about the experience with some Shop repair.God bless you

well there are several poles at the rear tire. one is the strut it has a spring wrapped around it. then there is a trailing arm that runs from the front of the tire and attaches to the frame. then there is a stabilizer link rod that attaches to the strut housing and the rear sway bar.

the bushings there talking about are built into the control arm it's where the sway bar goes threw just get the new arms

the switch on the cylinder is loose if the key will come out at any position other than 12 o clock or the relay in the fuse box could be bad or the key less entry model in the right side corner on the right rear seat back

Not a big deal...You will need to drain the tank if there is more than 10% the total volume of diesel. If not, fill the tank with 90 to 92 octane and go ahead and run it. It will not have the same power and will probably smoke some but actually the diesel will help clean up the system some and definitly lube the parts. Its better to run a longer time with engine warmed up rather than short trips as diesel burns better hot. As you use the full tank, continue to "top off" to increase performance back to normal. If you have to drain the tank, just follow same procedure. Um green is for diesel...haha gotta give you a little ribbing. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/william_c9458c4c1f94e482

I have the same car and had the same problem, when you pull down the head liner you will find the motor for the moon roof. i disconnected the motor so that i could analyze it. i found that the gears in the moon roof motor are made of plastic and most of the gear teeth were chewed off. i disconnected the wireing harness from the motor and left it unplugged, i then pushed the moon roof back into position and tightened the screws to the moon roof. That is the way i left it for the past 2 years, because i was not about to spend the money t fix the motor.

i had the same problem...make sure all the wires that were cut or unhooked are taped off and this should stop the blown fuses.

is the car getting hot?check fuel pressure?,could be running hot,or not gettin enough fuel,,pump failing?,,rough basics

what problem are you having with the switch if it works in one direction but not the other sway the door lock relays in the fuse box on the side of the center console if one switch works and not the other swap switches from the other door

SOUNDS TO ME ALL THEY TO DO WAS TO ADJUST THE CABLE THAT RUNS FROM YOUR PEDAL TO YOUR CLUTCH,ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU HAVE REPLACED THE ITEMS YOU REPLACED

I solved the problem by cleaning all the contacts with nail polish remover and then stuck small bits of aluminum duct tape to the bottom of the buttons (contacts). Everything works great, but I am not confident about the adhesion between the tape and the rubber. Good for now.

Just is one way to replace. Review this:

1996 Saturn SL 1.9L MFI SOHC 4cyl



If the starter is to be replaced, remove the bracket from the old starter

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. If equipped, remove the starter shield pin by pulling on it with pliers, then lift and release the shield from the solenoid.
4. Spray the solenoid electrical connection nuts and studs with penetrating oil, and allow it to seep in for a minute to loosen the connections. While the oil is soaking in, tag the solenoid electrical connectors for identification during assembly.

It is very important that the solenoid electrical connection nuts and studs are sprayed with penetrating oil prior to removal to avoid damage to the solenoid end cap. A cracked cap will allow debris and moisture to enter and corrode the solenoid contacts.

1. Carefully loosen the bolts and detach the starter electrical connectors. Position the wires to the side and out of the way.
2. Remove the lower starter mounting bolt.
3. Using an obstruction wrench, remove the upper starter mounting bolt. If the upper starter mounting bolt cannot be reached from below the vehicle, it may be accessible from above, through the intake manifold support bracket opening.
4. If equipped, remove the bolt attaching the starter rear support bracket to the vehicle. Rotate the starter until the bracket misses the axle shaft support bracket.
5. Carefully support the starter, pulling it rearward and toward the left side of the vehicle to remove it.

To install:

1. If equipped on the old starter, install the rear starter support bracket to the new starter. Tighten the bracket nuts to 7 ft. lbs. (9 Nm).
2. Guide the starter into the bell housing and rotate the assembly until the lower bolt hole in the starter aligns.
3. Verify that the bracket is properly aligned and loosely install the bracket bolt, then loosely install the starter mounting bolts. It may be necessary to raise or lower the vehicle for access to both the upper and lower bolts, but do not tighten any bolts until all of the mounting bolts have been started.
4. Tighten both upper and lower starter assembly attachment bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
5. Reconnect the electrical wires and install the nuts. Be careful not to overtighten the nuts and crack the solenoid end cap. Route the wiring cable so it will not contact any rough surfaces. Tighten the starter positive terminal nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) and the solenoid terminal nut to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
6. If equipped, install the starter shield and push pin, being careful that the pin is positioned for possible future removal.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Connect the negative battery cable and verify operation.

Fig. Remove the starter motor dust shield retaining clip



Fig. Lift off and remove the starter motor dust shield from beneath the vehicle



Fig. Loosen the starter solenoid wiring terminal screws ...



Fig. ...then label and disengage the wiring harnesses from the starter solenoid, carefully positioning them out of the way



Fig. Loosen the lower starter motor mounting bolt ...



Fig. ...then remove the bolt from the vehicle



Fig. If accessibility is limited from below the vehicle, use the opening in the intake manifold support bracket to reach the upper starter bolt



Fig. Remove the rear mounting bracket bolt, then remove the starter from the vehicle




I hope help you with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.