1998 Saab 900 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Yes most things like that can be reprogrammed by the Saab dealer using a Pro Grade Bi-Directional Scan Tool computer. Or you can buy one. They cost between $3,500 and $5,000. Or a new sensor for $45. https://www.google.com/search?q=Saab+convertible+top+latch+sensor Or you can try bypassing it by joining the wires together. Or find the noise generator and fill it with expanding foam. ..

You could but the system ratio's would not be right and that would lead to all kinds of problems.

There is no bulletin on this issue. You have a draw in the car. See my notes on dead battery, #4 in the page at the link below. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Try swapping the door switches to see if that corrects the problem. Each door is not controlled by a relay. If one door has power, they all have power. Look at the body control module too. All door lock functions go thru it.

Could be the starter

Congrats !! But it's not a Saab, so ask elsewhere.

get a diagnostic scan to find wats goin on in that computer system-discount A does um for free-it will tell u if there is a failin sensor etc-if it doesnt solve problem then get onother one or more from dealer etc-the more opinions the better

Hi HalfBack Unfortunately with the Saab factory radios, each unit has a code unique to the unit. The sheaf of stuff included with the owners manual included a credit card sized card with the code. That said, dealers can look the codes up for owners who have lost them. Your best shot is find a dealer that's still open and talk to them. Cheers

Points to wiring or fuses,dirty connections.

No. You could have a bad connection at the battery post. Often, the cables going to the post of the battery is not properly seated, which could cause a weak connection from your battery to your starter. Take a closer look at the base of the battery posts and your battery cable clamps and see if the cable clamps are seating at the bottom of the post, if not, lightly hit it until the cable clamps are nice a snug.

Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable 2. Remove the air breather/cleaner and hose from between the air breather/cleaner and throttle housing 3. Remove the strain of the belt tensioner off the belt and pry off the belt 4. Remove the right front wheel 5. Remove the belt cover & Disconnect the battery Cable and the red alternator power wire. 6. Remove the two Alternator Bolts that secure the alternator to the bracket 7. Remove the three bolts that hold the header pipe up to help give room to remove the alternator 8. Remove the converter bolt from the converter bracket and mover the converter over to aid in the alternator removal 9. Refit in reverse Working from Top down: disconnect battery 2) not necessary to remove airfilter box but does give more breathing room for belt removal/instal 3) un-tension serpentine belt with a 1/2" drive long extension in the square of the tensioner & pull towards the front of the car to release the serpentine belt 4) lock tensioner with about a 4mm pin(Allen key will do) by pulling forward with that 1/2"drive extension & pinning the tensioner with that hole 5) remove tensioner with 8mm Allen key or drive(not necessary to remove R side engine mount & raise engine) and be careful to not knock and cause to release the tensioner-they hurt when they snap! 6) remove upper alternator bolt(8mm Allen key/drive). Working from Bottom of the engine bay: disconnect cables at alternator(13 & 8 mm nuts) 8) remove R wheel/inner fender skirt that covers the harmonic balancer(10 & 8 mm heads)/ tie back flex hose to strut 9) remove lower alternator bolt(8mm alley key/drive) 10) wedge/rotate out alternator of its mounts 11) disconnect exhaust pipe rubber hangers at catalytic converter and mid section of exhaust 12) you can bend(and later re-bend into position the hanger studs) (OR undo front header studs/nuts to free up the front part of the exhaust) to push over the exhaust and pull out the alternator(pulley nose down)--be careful when getting the alternator out as the downstream O2 sensor is right there(a good precaution would be to remove it)......reverse procedures to install.

have you cleaned the idle air valve ??? also check the lambda sensor

Your Siren alarm might be faulty. Do you have any error messages on your SID display? The siren alarm located behind the driver side fender. The Siren alarm can be replaced or bypass the unit with a Tech2 scanner. A new Siren alarm is very expensive ($360+) from the dealership. However, you can get your original unit rebuilt through BBA vendor for about $85.00 with life time warranty. Good luck

u can find it near gear oil stick yellow colour

i think you may have pushed the pedal to quickly and the piston pushed the seals passed the seal point need to strip out the slave again refit the seals in the correct position and then when bleeding make sure the caliper nipple is open and push really gently and slowly on the pedal ,do this procedure religously to all four calipers

This car will have the direct ignition cassette and not a distributor. The direct ignition cassette apparently has something in it that mimicks this sensor. when the cassette starts to fail this code can be an indication.

Crank position sensor failure is likely. No pulse from this sensor, and the ECU will not switch on the fuel pump, so no gas and no go. Cheap part to replace. THEY DO FAIL WITH AGE. If the car has done a high mileage. Replace it. Age due to constant heat exposure kills them.

In the trunk, there should be a carpet panel and the gas door side. Pull the carpet siding back and there should be a lever labeled gas gap manual. Use that to manually release the lock

there will be a bleed nipple on the clutch slave cylinder ,when bleeding same process as brake bleeding but push the padal VERY slowly as could push piston past usual use point and then the rubber seals may pull from piston