Top 20 1997 Saab 900 Questions & Answers

Since it does eventually start and run, hard starting is usually a fuel delivery problem (pressure regulator, fuel filter, fuel pump, kinked fuel line). First check the fuel pressure after turning the key on but not starting the car.

the first thing i would is to check that the window motor/regluator behind the door interior panel has not come loose/adrift from the door frame and gone out off adjustment also check that the guide seals have not got trapped/folded over or split damaged

fuel gauge voltage is controlled by the dash board, there is a board on the back of the dash that connects the rev counter the voltage is controlled by this board. you would need to change this board. but to do so you would need to open up the dash board display to get to the board or just replace the dash.

Have you checked you're actually getting a spark on all 4? Take out each plug in turn, leave it connected and ensure the metal body of the plug is touching a metal part of the car (the cylinder head will do :) ) Get someone to crank the car for you & see if there's a good, fat spark on the end of the plug. If you find one doesn't have a spark, start by changing over the plug lead with one of the others & see if the fault moves with the lead. If so, replace the faulty lead; actually, I'd replace the set as if one has gone, the others won't be far behind. There are many other faults that could cause that symptom but I don't know that engine well enough to be much help :( Let us know how you get on.

suspect low fuel pressure to the injectors run the fault codes to determine where the fault may be before you spend money

Yes, it will. The crank sensor sends pulses to the vehicle computer, which uses them to synchronize the firing of the injectors with the rotation of the engine. If there is no input from the crank sensor, there will be no injector pulse and no spark pulse.

This sounds like either the battery (most likely) or the alternator. If the fault's with the battery, maybe the voltage regulator needs checking/ resetting.

0730 = incorrect gear ratio 0741=Torque convertor clutch malfunction. Suggest check transmission fluid level and wiring connections

your engine will stop working because it will not supply gas to your engine

Check the wiring in or close to the turn switch lever, they may be frayed and be the cause.

The linkage has broken or fallen off the motor.

"I bypassed the immobilizer circuit only on my alarm module (which is really tedious). Bypassing the whole module is possible (and little easier), but you will lose the use of the remotes and the ability to arm the alarm. The alarm module in my '97 900 SETC is located under the carpet, below the driver's power seat switches (a pain to get at). If you want to bypass the module completely: 1. Disconnect the battery (make sure you know the radio code-if needed) 2. Unplug the connector from alarm module and remove module from car 3. Install a wire jumper between pin 8 and pin 20 in the connector 4. Install a wire jumper between pin 9 and pin 21 in the connector 5. Install a wire jumper between pin 10 and pin 22 in the connector 6. Wrap securely with electrical tape If you want to bypass the immobilizer circuit only: 1. Disconnect the battery (make sure you know the radio code-if needed) 2. Unplug the connector from the alarm module 3. Cut the following wires from the back of the connector and splice together as follows (Don't cut the wires too close to the connector, because someday down the road you may want install a new module, so you'll have to reverse this process): 4. Cut the wires to pin 8 and pin 20 and splice together w/ wire nut 5. Cut the wires to pin 9 and pin 21 and splice together w/ wire nut 6. Cut the wires to pin 10 and pin 22 and splice together w/ wire nut 7. Secure all with electrical tape 8. Reconnect the connector to the module Not knowing the details of your problem, please be aware that this may, or may not, solve it. Good luck and let me know how you make out."

Saabs can be prone to floating ground issues in some of the light fixtures. My older one had this happen in particular, when the ground plane in the tail light cluster rusted and isolated the ground on a bunch of lights. It turned into a bypass where brakes, blinkers, emergency, all would make all the lights flash kind of dimly. You should be able to remove the rear light clusters from inside the trunk. Look and see if there is corrosion, or signs that the ground plane - should look like a large scale printed circuit board, is damaged. Clean it off with a wire brush. if the ground plane is broken, you'll want to either get a replacement base plane, or, if you re-connect the ground, use some heavy wire to solder it back into connection so that it can handle the current for the lights. I hope this might help!

This should set you up.... http://www.jimellissaabparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=407832

Not enough info to begin to formulate answer

In the tank. On some, like the 97 900se, the hole and cover in the trunk for accessing the pump do not line up with the hole and float/pump assembly unit in the tank itself and the tank has to be dropped to get to it. A bit of a design oversight there...

Boiling water will remove corrosion,then smear with petroleum jelly to prevent it repeating.

Points to poor earth contact on left rearlight

Chances are you have a short, usually a faulty wire. This can be a simple leakage from an insulation problem, or attachment that is loose. Tighten all fittings and remove any debris that cover the battery posts, especially corrosion. Check electronic connections at the starter. The starter can be tested outside the car for continuity and functionality.

Grooved Idler Pulley