20 Most Recent 1991 Saab 9000 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Your fuel pump works better and last longer when the fuel in your tanx is more than half filled because it makes the fuel pump to be fully submerged in the fuel and it cools the fuel pump in that process.

It's attached directly to the turbo. Tucked underneath. What do mean stuck open?

I am assuming you mean the serpentine accessory belt. It would help if you would specify the model and year.

9000

1994 to 2002 (900 and 9-3, not sport sedan)

9-3 SS (I-4) and V-6

9-5 I-4 & V-6

You probably now have a bad lifter or two. This will cause your push rod to "hit" the rocker and make a tapping sound rather then "push" it. Try going to your local parts store and getting an additive to put in your oil that helps restore lifters. Otherwise you'll need to replace them.

take it down to autozone and use there portable computer and see what codes are in your
computer the counter person will be glad to help you hook it up and explain what the codes
are that's a good place to start

hope this helps you
bob

YOU NEED TO MAKE 3 PASS FIRST PAST TORQUE CYLINDER BOLTS 44 FT LBS. SECOND PASS TORQUE CYLINDER BOLTS 59 FT LBS. IF YOU HAVE 17MM HEAD BOLTS TORQUE TO 70 FT LBS.THE THIRD PASS TIGHTEN ALL CYLINDER BOLTS ADDITIONAL 90 DEGREES. ROD BEARING BOLT TORQUE TO 35 FT LBS.

most likely the linkage under the bonnet but you would need to have a good look as i suspect a idler stay bar has come away on top of the gearbox ,you will just have to have a good look

Try to check in this link: thesaabsite.com/900old/900&79to94faqs.

Hope helps.

The 'immobilizer' is an integral part of the engine computer and cannot be disarmed. It can, however, be tricked. There is a device used on cars with this system that tricks the computer to think the key is there during remote start. The bypass module, as it is called, learns the transponder code from the key (more advanced models) or just uses a spare key with a transponder in it to trick the engine computer. This requires you to have the key to the vehicle. If you don't have the key, the only option is to get a dealer to cut you one based on your VIN number. You'll have to provide proof of ownership. They do it this way because just anyone could get a VIN number from a parking lot and have a key made if they didn't require proof of ownership.

Now, you didn't give any information about what model car you have and the year, so I can't give you more detailed information on what type of immobilizer system the car has and different ways, if any, that it can be tricked. Keep this in mind when you rate.

Hello,

Below are what you will be needing to completely carryout the task;

Wrench set, Floor jack, 2 jack stands, 2 wheel chocks, Diagonal-cutting pliers (optional), Ratchet, Deep socket, Ratchet extension, Socket, Torx bit (optional)

To remove the starter;

1. Turn the ignition key to the "Lock" position and apply the parking brake. Lift the hood and prop it open. Disconnect the negative (black) battery cable with a wrench.
2. Raise the front of your Saab with a floor jack and place a jack stand under the frame on each side for support. Block the rear wheels with chocks.
3. Crawl under your Saab and cut the plastic cable ties securing the wires connected to the rear of the solenoid, if your Saab has the 3.0L engine. Use a pair of diagonal-cutting pliers. The solenoid is the small cylinder mounted on top of the starter.
4. Detach the electrical wires from the back of the solenoid with a wrench.
5. Loosen the upper mounting bolt of the brace next to the starter, using a ratchet and deep socket. This will give you more room to maneuver the starter out of the vehicle, if you have the 2.0L or 2.3L engine.
6. Loosen the upper and lower starter mounting bolts with a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. If you have a 3.0L engine model, use a Torx bit instead of a socket to loosen the mounting bolts. Hold the starter with one hand, finish removing the two mounting bolts and remove the starter from the vehicle.

To install the starter;

• Place the new starter in position at the engine block and hold it firmly with one hand. Use your free hand to install the two mounting bolts finger-tight. Tighten the starter mounting bolts with the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. If you have the 3.0L engine model, use the Torx bit instead of the socket to tighten the bolts.
• Tighten the brace upper mounting bolt with the ratchet and deep socket, if you have the 2.0L or 2.3L engine.
• Attach the electrical wires to the back of the solenoid with the wrench.
• Secure the wires connected to the solenoid with new plastic cable ties.
• Lower your Saab off the jack stands and remove the chocks from behind the rear wheels.
• Attach the negative (black) battery cable. Close the hood.

I hope the above helps.

Good luck.

CHECK BRAKE FLUID FIRST IF ALL IS GOOD. YOUR PROBLEM COULD BE IN THE HYDRALIC CONTROL UNIT OR MASTERCYLINDER AND THE CAB OR CONTROLLER ANTI LOCK BRAKE.THE CAB IS THE BRAIN FOR THE ABS UNIT IT CONTROLS SOLENOIDS TO FRONT AND REAR BRAKES.HAVE ABS BRAKE SYSTEM CODE SCAN FOR A FAULT CODE.

Take of all panel and then you can remove the switch from bottom without damaging or scratching any plastic.

Turbochargers do not kick in they always work from the time you start your engine to time you shut it off, normally the fault of turbo means you have loss of oil and black smoke of the exhaust, if there is a loss of power it can mean few things and it is only diagnostics and proper garage to tell, as well it can be a fault in the fuel system. Get it checked properly.

Have a large drain pan and remove the trans pan carefully. Then remove the filter. Install the new filter and pan with provided gaskets as given in the filter kit. Add trans fluid and check the level with the enginge running in park. Top off till full. Usually 4 quarts are needed

Using Google Chrome or Firefox browser click on images and type in SAAB 9000 SERPENTINE BELT ROUTING.You will see several diagrams including the one you are looking for.

sounds like the remote has got a dead battery