20 Most Recent 1991 Saab 9000 Questions & Answers

NO,no. afer 2.5 years... change oil, filter,coolant, fuel ,,filter just to start, once running there's other things to also check and replace !!!

We were able to locate the original owners manual for a 1996 Cadillac Sedan Deville on craigs list,also try ebay. repair manuals may be available at your local parts store,called Haynes manuals.

yes you can ! is lot of labor. lots of modification. becouse your car doesnt have the connection for the turbo. one more thing a fat wallet ready to spend more than 10 grands

The bleeder is on the "slave" cylinder down at the clutch. Attach a hose to the bleed valve and route it into an acceptable container. You should have a "loop" so that the fluid has to travel "up and over" to the container. Open the bleed valve and have someone press and HOLD the clutch pedal down. Then close the bleed valve and release the pedal slowly. You should do this about 3 times and then check the fluid level in the master cylinder(at the firewall). In the picture below the bleed valve is at the top with the nipple for attaching a hose:

the clutch fluid maybe low or you may have a bad clutch slave or master cylinder

depends if yours has the flat panal filter or the round type both can be changed for a k&n performance filter wear you never ever replace it again only clean and re-oil at every service
the round type is on the front lower side pass side 3 spring back clips hold the front cover on
the panal filter is squire and has 3 or 4 spring back clips just lift the lid and change

Hi,

If it's a new SAAB part, the instructions it comes with advise to 'rock the old knob to and fro, and side to side' in order to get it off.

I just did this on mine and it takes some perseverance, but it eventually comes off. To fit the new one, you need to use a mallet with something absorbant covering the new knob to keep from marring it.

Yanking too hard upwards on the knob can damage the whole shift lever assembly and then you'll be worse off than you were before.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

in a case like this you can have allot of thing's going on to cause this, you really need to have the computer control system for the fuel injection tested for trouble codes before u buy any parts, but based on my experience two thing are the most common cause of this, one is low fuel pressure, it requires a special gauge to test the pressure, so have that one when the trouble code test is run, the next thing is a part located i the air intake called the MAF sensor, this is also a common cause of this and sets no codes if it fails in most cases, have the tests done and then go from the results of the tests.

have car scanned auto zone -advanced auto and some other auto stores will do this for free most likely one of your sensors is starting to go bad usually will activate at low speed under 10 mph as ur slowing down do check this problem early as abs can cause vehicle to stop longer

sounds like a bad ignition switch to me.

tranny will separate from engine just take out converter bolts from flywheel and separate drive axels.

U NEED A SPECIAL SCANNER TO GET ABS CODES, A GENERIC SCANNER WILL NOT WORK.

maybe it lost all the fluid as may be leacking from slave cylinder the carpit will be wet with fluid or the slave cylinder could be gone in that case the bellhouseing on the gear be will be wet with fluid or at least the thrust bearing could have gone thought the clutch cover

85 and 86 are switch wires.
30 and 87 are power wires. (one of these go to fan) not' the one that has constant power 12+

radiating bulb temperature

is there a rip cord in the trunk usually has a little handle on it for this exact purpose. may be hidden