1994 Saab 9 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You don't say whether your electric fans both work...

First, check fuses #25 and #6 (both 30 amp)

There is a fan thermoswitch is on the left side of the rad. Turn the ignition on, and after pulling back the boot, short across the two terminals with a screwdriver.

If the fan runs, fan and wiring are both good, but thermoswitch might be faulty.

If fan only runs when thermoswitch is shorted like this, switch needs to be replaced (I strongly recommend that you get the low temp switch to prevent overheating - your temp gauge will not go over the middle position even on the hottest days; also get a low temp thermostat,and ALWAYS get a Saab stat, not an after market one! The SAAB stats are three position, and most after market ones aren't)

if the fan doesn't run when switch is shorted, check for voltage between green wire and ground at the switch.

Voltage indicates faulty fan, if no voltage then check the fan relay J in the main fuse box for the A/C rad fan, and also check relay G - it's for the rad fan.

Hope this helps!

Saabreur

receiver is hidden away inside the dashboard. it could be the fob is weak or you have something interfering with the fob signals, even a fob going faulty can interfere with its own signal, if you have a spare fob try the difference with that one. if you don't have a spare its best to get one as it may come in handy, it will need programing to the vehicle but it will take up 6 fobs.

Doesn´t seems like a mechanical failure. Check wiring and connectors related to the tranny.

no pressure in pump ,similar to old one ?? pump from scrap yard ?? say no more thats why the other car was in the scrap yard .have one of them reconditioned or junk the car

Not easy. Are all the key fobs giving you the same problem? If so, they are not be recognized by the Immobilizer. Either need to be paired again (GM dealers have the tool but charge a lot, shop around) or you need new immobilizer and paired key fobs.

If I could get wine from my Saab engine I would keep it forever !!

What's wrong with it? 1. Wires connecting to it? Splice or solder them. 2. Connector smashed or other physical (not electrical) problem? Get a used one off a junker (virtually any model) and splice/solder your car's wires to corresponding terminals on the new OBD connector.

Blue smoke when starting means valve seals are leaking

p0420=catalyst system efficiency below threshold.p1334=poor combustion cylinders 3&4. Points to DI cassette.

look for your owners manual. and next time try to have a question that makes sense. i can tell you plenty of places where coolant is but your question is so simple. there is no reason for it.

Vijay, Number one: does it start with a jump? If so, then have the battery load tested. if it is good, look to replacing the starter. If the battery is good after a recharge, and the load test is good, but it goes flat when parked- usually overnight- then it is the starter too. Other than that, we get into open circuits, broken switches, etc. LOTSA troubleshooting on thise. Do the basics first, though. Usually you are golden with that. Let us know what your outcome is,

The classic cause of this is a head gasket leak to the coolant jacket, which will cause quick overheating. You may see white bubbles in the coolant like dry ice, if you start the car from cold, allow the temp gauge needle to just move off the stop, then remove the radiator cap by grasping it through a large towel spread wide on top. Look then down the radiator neck while the engine runs and warms up. There is a simple test for combustion gases in the coolant, which your local mechanic can do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3J00_e7fyo

Has your car been parked for an extended period? May be dirty gas...try adding 2 bottles of fuel system cleaner, also a bottle of liquid heet...(drys out water in tank) If you know how, spray out the throttle body with injector cleaner...also use Mass Air Flow Sensor spray to clean the MAF sensor...usually located in the air duct leading to the throttle body...you should be surprised with the good results...any tune up lately?

Crankshaft position sensor is going out. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/nathaniel_9ed79ef078a2f164

changing the pulley and belt does'nt seem the correct advice to me ,only in the context of while thiese parts are removed makes good economic sense to replace them now and not have another bill in 50k km's time, if the cam shaft sensor is causing an issue only when engine cold then i would think the problem is with the circuitry between the ECU/PCM and the cam sensor , if you can forward me the OBD code i should be able to help further ,

hi my name is tonya me and my husband need your help we have a 2010 chevelet equinox the power steering fuse went out and it is very hard to turn right or left you have to use both hands to turn do you know were we can get another power steering fuse for it that wont cost a arm and leg.

There are 2 fuses for parking lights left and right side. so it can be 2 relays. located in the box in the front.

Use a bottle of yellow HEET dry gas to remove any moisture problem in the fuel. Clean / replace air filter. Check ATF at level ground. Top off to MAX level. Use starting fluid to aid starting.

con rod bolt tension is 55-60ft/lbs crank shaft main bearings is 80-85 ft/lbs fly wheel bolts95-100 ft/lbs crank shaft pulley nut 94-123 ft/lb head studs tension 80-95 ft/lbs working in a spiral direction from no 1 stud directly in the centre of the head. Pull down in 10ft/lb increment starting at 20 ft/lbs valve clearance is .010" both valves cold but after warming engine and re-tensioning the head studs re set valves to .012 both valves injector retaining nuts tension12-17 ft/lbs