20 Most Recent 1999 Land Rover Range Rover Questions & Answers

sounds like keyfob has lost its sync with the car, look online lots of places tell you how to re-ai.lgn them

Hi there you are losing your cooling fluid some were if your thermostat. Is working properly you might have a head gasket leaking do compression check on the cylinders make sure you have good compression on each cylinder and make sure that your raidator is not plug up or gloged do to sludge build up hope this helps

It is possible all problems are caused by a common problem, but in order to sort this out, you need to look at trouble codes with a code reader.

Please check the fuel pressure pump in the fuel tank.
It looks like in tank filter is blocked or the fuel pump is weak.

needs put on dianogestic mech

The firing order is: 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2; looking at the engine the cylinders are left side: 1-2-3-4 / right side: 5-6-7-8

You will leak fluid and go nowhere. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

Number one put electrical tape around those darn wires! Chance are you burned out something. Follow wiring to computer to see if there is a fuse or more likely,a fuse-able link. Check to see if it is popped. If not you could have fried your computer. Check fuse box also for other burnt out fuses. Peace. God bless.

Because that circuit is now burned. Why did they ground?

check that the cat converter is not failing and blocking up the exhaust system. or not doing it,s job. replace both HO2S and O2 sensors

there should be a fuse for the power supply for the ECM. However if you know of the chaffed wires then it is best that you do something about it . If the power wires are before the fuses then there could be an electrical fire and after the fuse then you will keep blowing fuses and stop what ever those wires support.

See this

Sounds to me like the fuel pump. Located inside the fuel tank it can be difficult to verify without a second person or an extremely quiet workspace. First eliminate the basics. Verify that fuel is or isn't reaching the engine. Do this by locating the Schrader valve on the top of the engine. Battery side, aluminum tube on top of engine, the fuel injection pressure release valve looks exactly like air fill valve on your tire. Protect eyes, place a rag underneath the valve to catch any expelled fuel. With a small nail or valve tool press the needle to relaese pressure. If nothing shoots out or no more than a dribble is expelled, this is consistent with bad pump. Next check for the sound of pump running. This is where a second person come in. Have your helper sit in the drivers seat with the keys. Then move to the passenger side rear, fold up right side of rear seat exposing the carpet underneath. When in position, with all quiet, have helper turn key to second position doing so with driver door closed to eliminatebells and whistles. When the key arrives at position 2 this engages the fuel pump relay and fuel pump for 3-5 seconds. When the pump relay ceases to send power to pump after 3-5 seconds you will hhear one last beep from the message center. Repeat steps to confirm that pump is operating or not. You will hear the pump humming from the floorboards for the 3 second relay interval. If you hear nothing coming from the tank, which is directly under right rear passenger seat this would be the second confirmation of a failed pump. Assuming you have ample gas in the tank to prime pump (in the event it had run dry) five gallons, check your inertia cutoff switch for proper operaation and that it is not tripped. This switch is behind the right hand kick panel under glove box at right of front passengers feet. Remove panel and be. Sure that the red rubber switch is depressed. If this is pushed all the way down then the switch is engaged. Making this third confirmation symptom of bad pump. The pump through the dealer is expensive, but if you are on a budget and have some mechanic skills, the $1500 pump can be repaired by simply replacing the $160 electric motor. Feel free to repost additional info or questions. I will do my best to answer them. Good luck!

In many case this problem, not uncommon, is related to the retractable wind deflector that pops up when the roof opens and tucks away when it closes. A couple things to check.... First step up on a ladder or the passenger door sill and get a good look at the deflector itself. The mechanism is spring loaded and you should be able to easily push it down into its cubby and it should spring back up when you release it. Inspect closely for blockages by debris. Second, inspect the track that the roof travels on for missing or loose fasteners (screws). These do come loose and even completely out. In which case the rooitself can get hung up on the protruding screw head or be blocked by a loose screw somewhere in its path. The last item to inspect is the track and spring mechanism of the deflector for lubricant. There should be visible presence of grease on the tracks as well as the deflector hinge and spring points. If not this also is sufficient to stop the movement of the roof and or trigger the anti trap function. Apply a universal grease or white lithium grease is what I use. The motor of the roof is intentionally not very strong in order to prevent shattering the glass in instances exactly of this nature. I've never seen any more significant issues with the sunroof operation or mechanics than these. In the event you ate unable to resolve with these tips you can manually close the roof while deciding your course of further action and stop the wind noise. That odds looking tool in your glove compartment is a T-wrench for turning the roof motor and gears for service. Simply remove your overhead light. First the clear lens, then the two screws you will see on either side of the bulb. This will drop your interior light cluster and clearly give you acccess to the center of the primary gear. Insert your wrench (which I believe is a Rover unique design) and gently turn until roof is tightly closed. I couldn't give you any further advice without a personal inspection, hope this solves your issue. One word of caution, the sunroof glass is easily shattered. Do not apply any force to the glass panel. Good luck!

The brake light circuit is directly controlled by the BeCM under the passanger seat. If no one has touched the tail lights recently, then it is the body computer going bad. That normally happens around 130k.

look at what is going on inside of drivers door by pulling window handle to pop door panel so you can see inside.