20 Most Recent 2000 Kia Sportage - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Did you try to depress the button on the side of the shift lever?

check the idle air control valve. if that's faulty, it can cause such symptoms as described. if that's OK. do check the transmission oil. if it's low or there's a leak, causes problems as well. I hope this helps.

With The ABS light on the system is disabled (not working ) This doesn't affect the base brakes . There are DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes stored in the ABS electronic control module . You would need to have the ABS system checked for codes ,then diagnosed for that code . Could be a wheel speed sensor or the wiring or a module .

A long list of things. From fuses to ignition switch to ecu to security alarm and more. Here is how to start looking: Turn the key to on. Do the dash gauges and warning lights and check engine light come on? Then power is getting to the switch and being sent out from it. Next, use a test light and check for power TO the coils and TO the injectors with key on. All four injectors use the same color power wire. My wiring diagram is poor quality, but it looks like a green wire or possibly a gray wire-remember same color power wire to all injectors-the other injector wire is a ground wire, and they are all different colors. Pull one injector connector off and check for power on one terminal with key on. And could do the same at the coil pack. With key on, the white wire with red stripe to the coils should have power-actually, the white wire is spliced and two white wires are shown going to coil pack-this is the primary current to the coils- is hot in run or start. If no power to coil or injectors, here are the fuses to check: in the under hood fuse/relay block: ecu-10 amp fuse, Eng-15 amp fuse, and these maxi fuses: fuel inj-30 amp fuse, Main- 80 amp fuse, Ign-40 amp fuse. And one more- a designated Main fuse-15 amp fuse. If these fuses are good, should have power going to injectors and the coil pack with key on. If the key is turning on the dash, some of those fuses are known good, but need to check all of those listed. I will stop here, and wait for your reply. You get this far, you are on the way to diagnosing the problem.

I can't find your year but the procedure is the same with maybe slight diffrences in the bolts and such. Here is a video that should do. Replacement of Front Struts on 2005 2010 Kia Sportage SENSEN Shocks and...

The first thing to do is check the brake lights, if they don't work then you have found the cause, no brake light circuit power to the park lock solenoid.

Check to see if the power steering fluid reservoir has the proper amount of fluid. If the fluid is low you will hear a noise from under the hood and the steering will become harder. Look under the front of the car for oil leaks. The other thing is the belt may be broken or come off the pulley. Normally this belt is used for more than one item such as the alternator, engine water cooling pump or air conditioner compressor. If this is the case than one of the above mentioned systems would also have failed.

The most likely repair to this issue is going to be the multifunction switch. If both the sides are working, the flasher module is working and no breakes in the wires are going to be found. The contacts inside the switch are not making contact to activate the right side. The switch will wear through time and is not uncommon. I have replaced quite a few when I was at the dealership. Let me know if you need anything else like instrcutions for replacement.

p1115 is coolant temp intermittently high. Could be the sensor or wiring/plug. p1121 is TPS is invalid. Again this could both the sensor or wiring/plug. Takes a volt /ohm meter and a bit of time to figure out.

P1115 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1115.html#ixzz3EKdiKtqf

you might need to replace the fan clutch or your thermostat. The fan may not be spinning hard enough to cool the motor or spinning at all, lift the hood turn the car on and see if the fan is coming on.

02 sensors under where your cadillac convertor is.. And your air intake sensor..I bet

you have commited the deadly sin if a motor works ok leave well alone ,you have somehow managed to bring in the factory immobilisor so its a dealer only job to reset the alarm

All of them? With an ABS system, around a $1000. It would include the hoses.

probably the throttle position sensor is faulty and there is a Poor connection(s) (or high resistance in wiring) between ECM and MAFS or TPS.

1. Faulty or not programmed ignition key 2. Faulty Immobilizer unit 3. Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM

Could be low transmission fluid, or dirty fluid/filter...please check fluid with motor running...check color of fluid should be reddish...not dark brown...Before giving up...try adding a bottle of Lucas Oil Transmission Stabilizer fluid...can be added without draining anything...hope this helps...

You have to remove the inside panel on the rear hatch. This takes special tools so that you don't damage the panel.