Top 10 1999 Kia Sportage Questions & Answers

I just purchaced a 2000 Sportage and am having the same problem. I did find that Autozone.com has a free online manual that you can view and print sections from. I would rather have a book at my side when I repair my car, but until somebody comes up with one we are stuck with the online services.

there is a fuse in the back of the radio, if it is good then the radio has "burnt up"

Engine cold, you open the radiator cap. You'll lose some coolant, so having a deep drip pan underneath is advisable. Be aware that antifreeze is poisonous to pets, as they are attracted to the sweet smell, and will drink it. It is also bad for humans, and should be kept away from children. Can cause blindness.
(Thanks for letting me state that. I feel better now)

First thing, pull the oil dipstick, and observe where the oil level is. You should have your vehicle on a flat level surface. Wipe the dipstick off with a clean rag, and recheck the level. If it is way overfull, and has yellowish globs, you have a blown head gasket, or a cracked engine block.

Getting the engine too hot, can cause a blown head gasket. Not enough antifreeze, or changing it when it's the change interval, can cause the engine to freeze, and crack the block.
Bring the dipstick close to your nose, and see if you can smell antifreeze.

Start the engine and observe the coolant. You may need a flashlight. You will see some bubbles as the coolant flows, through the coolant tubes of the radiator. This is normal. As the engine warms up, and the thermostat opens, if you see a constant stream of bubbles coming to the top, you have a blown head gasket.

# Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.

# Drain the cooling system.

# Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cable

Brake booster vacuum hose from the dynamic chamber

Fuel line from the pressure regulator and the return line from the rear of the dynamic chamber

Ground wire from the intake manifold

Purge solenoid valve vacuum hose

Upper radiator hose

Intake manifold support bracket

Converter flange inlet pipe

Timing belt

Cylinder head cover

Cylinder head with the intake and exhaust manifolds attached

3 wire harness connectors at the rear of the cylinder head

Crankshaft match marks


Align marks on timing belt pulley and pump body.

Camshaft pulley alignment marks

1. Align marks on camshaft pulleys with alignment marks on seal plate.
2. Install timing belt. NOTE: No looseness should exist on the tension side and at the camshaft pulleys.
   
3. Loosen tensioner lock bolt.
4. Turn crankshaft 2 revolutions in direction of rotation and check that timing marks are still in alignment.
5. Tighten timing belt tension lock bolt to 27-38 ft lb (32-52 Nm).
6. Apply a force of 22 lbs to timing belt between camshaft sprockets.
7. Belt deflection should measure 0.30-0.33 in (7.5-8.5 mm)
8. NOTE: Replace tensioner spring if timing belt deflection is excessive.

Timing Belt Installation

1. Install lower timing belt cover.
2. Install upper timing belt cover.
3. Install power steering drive belt and adjust belt tension.
4. Install fan pulley.
5. Install generator drive belt and adjust belt tension.
6. Install A/C drive belt and adjust belt tension.
7. Install splash guard.
8. Install fan and fan shroud.
9. Install 4 fan bolts. Tighten to 24 ft lb (33 Nm).
10. Install fan shroud mounting bolts.
11. Install fresh air duct.
12. Connect hose to resonance chamber.
13. Connect battery negative cable.

Hi Zak:
Kia Sportage 1998-02 Repair Guide
Oil Pan - Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable 2 Top intake manifold bracket bolts Front 3 axle housing mounting bolts, 4WD only Left front bushing from the axle housing mount and lower the front axle housing Both gusset plates from the engine Transmission under cover Engine under cover Oil pan mounting bolts and using a scrapper tool separate the oil pan Oil pan Oil strainer assembly Oil baffle
   


Fig. Exploded view of the oil pan assembly mounting

To install:



Fig. Tighten the oil pan bolts in sequence

1. Clean the engine block, oil pan and baffle pan surfaces of any gasket material.
2. Apply a continuous bead of Loctite Ultra Blue 587® silicone sealant around the baffle pan.
3. Install or connect the following:
   
   Oil baffle. Torque the bolt to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm). Oil strainer. Torque the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm).
   
4. Apply a continuous bead of Loctite Ultra Blue 587® silicone sealant around the oil pan.
   
   Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm). Transmission under cover. Torque the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm). Gusset plates to the engine. Torque the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Engine under cover Front axle housing into position. When properly aligned, torque the bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Intake manifold bracket bolts. Torque the bolts to 34 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Negative battery cable
   
5. Fill the engine with clean oil.
6. Start the vehicle and check for leaks, repair if necessary.

Hope helps with this (remember rated this) Good luck.

hi this sounds like it could be a couple of things, first the obvious have you checked the fuse? or it might be the relay in the fuse box might need replacing, and the fuel sender unit in the fuel tank, you also can check out the wires going to the sender unit, sometimes you can find these under the rear seat or in the boot/trunk area might be a simple case of one of the wires have come adrift there is a couple of things to check before having the sender unit replaced or the Gage..hope that helps

• Hi, i can help.

• Looks like your vehicle gets the absolute performance out of a 0W30 Full Synthetic Oil. It also says it gets good performance out or 5W30 Full Synthetic oil. So as long as it is a high quality Full Synthetic of 0W30 or 5W30 you will be fine.

• As for oil types,, Mobile1, Castrol, AMSOIL all make outstanding Full Synthetic Oils.

• If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Well for starters, you need to diagnose the problem before replacing anymore parts. I say this because you mention both the fuel pump and sensors dealing with the ignition system which are 2 separate main things. Basically it takes 2 things to make an engine start, fuel and spark at the spark plugs. You need to narrow down what is missing because it seems since you replaced sensors dealing with spark and then you mention the other need fuel. I'm not sure as to where to start to help until whatever is missing is diagnosed and then find the cause of the loss. There are a couple of things you can check. Below is a picture of the relay box in the engine compartment. With the help of somebody put a finger touching both the fuel pump relay and the EGI main relay. While touching them have somebody turn the key to the "on" position (no need to try and start). When the key is turned on you should feel a "click" inside both of those relays. The fuel pump relay will click for about 3 seconds and the click again to shut off. The EGI main relay should stay on. If both seem to be fine you need to make sure of the fuel pump gettting "juice" and for power to the ignition system like the coils. You can get to the power/juice wire at the fuel pump pretty easy. You can access the connection at the fuel pump by lifting the lower part of the rear seat. Once the seat is lifted you should be able to see a part in the carpet that is cut to be able to lift the carpet up and access the plate covering the access to the fuel pump and/or the top of the fuel tank. Using a test light, check the green and yellow wires at the fuel pump. You should have power at those wire when turn the engine over or if the key is just turned to the on position you should have power there for about 3 seconds. To begin checking for spark or power to the ignition system you need to make sure you are getting power to the ignition coils. The red and white wires at the coils are your power wires. Check those. Also you can check the power at the fuel injectors. When the key is turned on or when trying to start, you should have power to the green wire at each of the fuel injectors. You should have constant power/juice at each of the fuel injectors. This is where I would start to narrow down the loss. Start here with these tests and let me know how the tests come out by replying/commenting here or you can email me directly at [email protected] ith what you have found out. Once the first tests are done and I know what the results are, we can go to the next step with a couple of other tests to figue the problem out. If one of the relays don't "click" then you have a possible bad relay. The EGI main relay is a common thing to go as well as the fuel pump relay. Don't mind helping and there is no cost to you for it but I don't want to tell you to start replacing parts until the problem is located. Hope this helps get you started.

A/C BLOWS HOT. Radiator in Kia is rather small it overheats quickly. I should have checked the simplest thing first which was the radiator coolant level. I had a slow leak in radiator it was losing coolant but not very noticeably. I initially took it to have the a/c system checked all was good,they referred me to an electric repair shop but all the fuses and relays were good. I don't normally check coolant level as it is checked by dealer when oil is changed,this is a 2nd car and I don't drive it daily. Since coolant level was dropping slowly the engine would not overheat,however coolant got low enough to trigger emergency a/c compressor shut down switch to keep engine from overheating. That's why a/c would cool for 10 mins. in the morning but then shut off. Simple fix I filled the radiator and overflow tank. A/C started working perfectly again. After doing this a few times I realized the radiator had a leak which eventually had to be replaced $700.00 parts and labor. Its all good now.