20 Most Recent 1995 Jaguar XJ6 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

The immobiliser is normally located close to the ignition switch for it to pick up the signal from your key. The boot in some circles is also known as the trunk or that area at the rear of the car where you carry all the junk

One possible problem that is quite common with these cars is a bad crank position sensor. when they go, it will give a crank no start. The trans code is from the stall. other potential problems bad fuel pump or fuse / relay for same, the IAC could cause a stall, but if you modulate the throttle you could get it to a least fire up a bit, same with TPS, and EGR. I would start with the fuel tpump fuse (make sure you can hear the pump building pressure, then try the CKPS, it's $110 and easy to install front passenger side of engine 10:00 one bolt and one plug. Take your time with the plug it's a squeeze and pull. the only hard part is working around the top rad hose. fuel pump would be last as it's in the tank

if its a rhd. xj40, its easy. remove lh lower dash liner 4 screws, remove glovebox more screws. drain out some coolant if you want to avoid a wet footwell ! you will see 2 pipes held in by allen screws i think, remove pipes, remove plastic cover remove heater core make sure to renew o ring seals. if its a x300 its dash out,

.035, if it's the 4.0L engine.

Hi the idler valve has a set up with jag equpment but there is a way round this,ifyou have had  O2 sensors changed, is the idler working what are the revs when hot. 650 is to low  850 is ok with a hot engine Mike do you know where the idle valve is and the allen key manual adjustment try a quarter turn but mark it so you can turn it back if need be. let me know how it goes   D    

the wiper mechanism comes out has a assembley from under bonnet remove screen scuttle panel and wiper arm 17 or 19mm nut torx screws for scuttle i think, wiper mech held by bolts at top and clips at bottom which you have to slide to one side with screwdriver.all should now come out as a unit, good luck sliding the clips back

if the trunk opens by the internal switch it will be the button gone down common problem easy to fix just remove trunk lid liner exterior finisher you can test by latching trunk latch with screwdriver and shorting out the two wires in the connector going to the trunk wiring from the button also the wiring is prone to breaking around the trunk hinge

check your starter as well, but it sounds like your battery might be toast

yes there is on the radiator, 1 or 2 depending on the make and model, look for a fairly big bolt that you can screw out of the radiator side with 2 wires running out of it

with the ignition on press the brake can you her aclick from the gear lever area i suspect not the lever is more than likely stuck in park the soleniod that releases the gear lever is not being powered the most likely cause is the brake light switch on the brake pedal you can get it out of park by removing the little plug near the gear lever and pushing something like your key in to the hole to manually release the gear lever there is also a relay under the j gate that may be faulty/dislodged or the release soleniod itself faulty

you may need to get fault codes out airbag module to solve this dont and repeat dont mess with this unless you know what you are doing. they really do go BANG! and need to be properly disarmed before working on them my advice after being a jag tech fer 50 years is take to dealer or reputable tech even the minute current from a multimeter can set them off

air leak more than likely the little rubber elbow at back of engine rh ride has you look under bonnet will be perished and drawing in air or plastic pipipe it fits to broken.could also be rubber pipe on oil seperator under inlet manifold and fuel injector rail. first check air pipe from air filter to manifold is intact i am sure this is a air leak issue had lots the same!

Disassemble one side at a time, only, just in case if you in trouble you can check the other side