20 Most Recent 2004 Hyundai Elantra - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Any codes? did you change the fuel filter? tune up?

Is it misfiring on just one cylinder (code 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 etc.) or multiple/random (code 0300) cylinders? It takes all 4 ingredients to fire a cylinder - Air, Fuel, Spark, and Timing. If you only have one misfire code (P0302 - Cylinder #2 Misfire), it should be a relatively easy diagnosis and fix. Let's start with Spark. I'm going to assume you have a code reader. First, remove the spark plug in #2 cylinder. Examine the threaded end. Is it wet and/or smell like fuel? If so, chances are the misfire is caused by a weak/absent spark. To confirm, swap it with a known good cylinder - example #3 cylinder. Clear the code. Start it and let it run for a couple of minutes. If a code appears with P0303 (the last digit refers to cylinder number), then you have found the culprit - bad spark plug. If the code reappeared with P0302 (Cylinder #2 again), then swap out the spark plug wire (both ends). Clear the code. Start and run for a couple of minutes. Again, if it appears on Cylinder #3 - the plug wire is the culprit. If the P0302 code comes back, swap the coil. See where this is going? Now, when you first pulled the plug from Cylinder #2, if it wasn't wet or smelled of fuel, chances are Spark is not the issue. Was the plug dry and/or ashy? Possible cause is no fuel reaching the combustion chamber (cylinder). Using an automotive stethoscope, listen to the fuel injector for cylinder #2 while the motor is running. Should hear a regular and rhythmic ticking sound. Like a fast clock. (Use a long handled screwdriver touching one end to your ear and the other to the top of the injector if you dont have a stethoscope). No clicking or irregular clicking means fuel injector is not working (no sound) or is not working properly. Like searching for the Spark problem, swap the injector in #2 cylinder with #3. Clear code. Start and run. If the problem moved to #3, ithat injector is the culprit. If it stayed on #2, it is likely your wiring to that injector - check the whole harness for loose connections or swelled with oil wires/connectors. Keep pecking away at the fuel delivery system for that cylinder. Stay looking for things that affect only that cylinder. When you pulled the plug, was it fairly normal looking? Then this misfire code might only be a timing problem. It is likely not a timing problem in your case, because timing affects all cylinders, but I thought I would just mention it since Timing is an important part of combustion. Also, if timing were a culprit here, another code would usually appear signifying the Camshaft Positon Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor was/is failed, or it is possible for the timing belt/chain to skip a knurl on a sproket and throw the timing off, but like I said, it would almost always cause multiple/random (Code P0300) misfires. And finally, when you pulled the plug earlier, if it was an oily sticky mess, then the culprit might be Air - or compression/lack of compression. Lets hope not, because when Air is the cause of a misfire, it is usually an expensive fix. Need to perform a compression test. If you have little or no compression in the cylinder, it is likely a bad head gasket or a stuck/sticky/broken/chipped valve (exhaust or intake). Any of these things are bad news and expensive to fix in a shop. Also bad news and time consuming and difficult task for a shade tree mechanic. Now, clear that code and get started! Good luck!

Pull the control panel out of the dash and see if the mode control vacuum switch has a good vacuum source or the switch itself leaks vacuum. The mode control is what moves the doors that diverts the air flow around to the vents, defrost and floor.

I recommend just get it back to the shop where the timing belt was done. They missed something. Might just be one spark plug wire not fastened correctly. But since that shop worked on it they are the most likely answer.

Install the cylinder head bolts. Starting at top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts in sequence as shown in illustration, using the Cylinder Head Bolt Wrench (09221 - 32001) or equivalent. Repeat the procedure, re-tightening all cylinder head bolt to the specified torque. (torque spec is Cold Engine 105-115 Nm (76-83 ft lb) )
. Install the timing belt tensioner pulley.
. Install the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket, making sure that the tension side is tightened by turning the camshaft sprocket in reverse, all timing marks are in alignment.
. Adjust the timing according to "Timing Belt"
. Install the rocker cover and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque: Rocker cover belt:

2.5-3.5 Nm (25-35 kg.cm, 2-3 ft. lbs.)

. Install the timing belt cover.
Install the new intake manifold gasket and the intake manifold. Tighten the nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
Install the new exhaust manifold gasket and the exhaust manifold. Tighten the exhaust manifold attaching nuts to the specified torque.
. Install the surge tank and tighten the nuts bolts to the specified torque.
. Install the power steering oil pump and bracket.
. Install the ignition coil.
. Install the air intake hose.
Connect the vacuum hose, fuel hose and water hose.
. Install breather hose.

2004 HYUNDAI ELANTRA REPAIR MANUAL get your car fix right now

There isn't one. ABS or TCS light on. Have the ABS system scanned. Usually a bad wheel sensor.

Wrong key?

2004 HYUNDAI ELANTRA REPAIR MANUAL for the easy solution download the pdf file

The CVVT (Continuously Variable Valve Timing) system is installed to the chain sprocket of the exhaust camshaft. There is no variation in valve timing of the exhaust cam because the exhaust camshaft is driven by the timing belt. The timing of the intake cam is varied by the relative operation the CVVT vane to the housing. This system helps the engine decrease exhaust gases and increase engine power and fuel economy by changing the valve open/close timing of the intake camshaft.

The code you are getting can be caused by a mechanical problem with the CVVT or with an Engine Control Module (ECM) malfunction. The most common cause of a mechanical failure of this system is debris clogging the very small oil ports that control the position of the CVVT vane hub. Improper oil viscosity can affect this as well as deposits caused by not changing oil at the specified intervals.

There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) that deals with properly checking the CVVT system for mechanical/electrical failures. It is bulletin Number 09-EM-002.

Bright lights

If they both went out at the same time, I would believe it's a connection problem. But, bulbs due have a limited life span, so it is not unlikely they can both go out within the same time. Take the bulbs out and check them carefully. Use gloves so you don't get any body oil on the bulbs.

There is probably corrosion in the circuit causing resistance . Do a voltage drop test on the circuit . On youtube you will find a lot of videos on voltage drop testing . Voltage drop testing will catch automotive electrical thieves

My source says code 2196 means the signal coming from the O2 sensor is stuck on rich. The sensor is supposed to switch back and forth from lean to rich to lean as the computer controls injector "on" time. If the sensor signal stays rich, in most cases there is a leaking injector, or the sensor is faulty. I doubt a short to anything would be involved. The sensor generates a small ac voltage between zero and one volt. Less than 1/2 volt is lean and more than 1/2 volt is rich. There is a heater in the sensor that could short to the signal wire, but then you should have a code for the heater circuit too. You can remove the sensor and check for excessive carbon buildup from a rich fuel mixture, or go ahead and replace it and see what happens. A repair shop would be able to check exhaust gas output to find out if its the sensor or a leaking injector.

Does the car crank slowly, or the starter clicks when you attempt to start it? If the alternator or voltage regulator is bad, the battery would continue to lose energy and appear to be bad. Alternators need to be fed voltage since they don't have magnets to excite the windings. On my Volvo, sometimes the indicator lights don't come on when I turn the ignition on, before actually cranking the engine. When this happens, I know from experience that the battery won't charge. Do you get any dash lights showing a problem? You can check the voltage at the battery when the engine is running; it should be well over 12 volts if charging. If a trunk, glove compartment or interior light is on, that can run the battery down too.