20 Most Recent 1990 Geo Storm Questions & Answers

Double check crankshaft timing mark, on your lower timing cover has some timing marks - crankshaft should be on the 0 mark. Camshaft timing marks--intake camshaft mark set at 3 o'clock and exhaust camshaft mark set a 9 o'clock. These timing marks are critical for motor to run and start correctly. These timings marks can move while trying to install the timing belt. After, you confirm or reset timing and belt, you can confirm timing is correct by rotating the crankshaft twice. Your timing marks should be on right on timing marks discussed at the top of the page. If timing marks are off, start over with timing process.

the whole car, every inch of the electrics, are there.

Based upon the symptom described, my best guess would be a faulty crankshaft position sensor.

old post. (no FSM book, or can log in to alldata.com>?its the 1.6L twin cam, only IT has shims.answered; with no photos, get the book, or login.steps: (quote)The notch on the crankshaft pulley should align with the 0 degrees mark on the timing gear case. Make sure the rocker arms on the No. 1 cylinder are loose and the rockers on the No. 4 cylinder are tight. If not, turn the crankshaft one complete revolution and align the marks again. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the cam lobe and the selective shim on the intake and exhaust valves on the No. 1 cylinder, then the intake valves on the No. 2 cylinder and the exhaust valves on the No. 3 cylinder. Note readings. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the cam lobe and the selective shim on the intake and exhaust valves on the No. 4 cylinder, then the intake valves on the No. 3 cylinder and the exhaust valves on the No. 2 cylinder. Note readings. The valve clearance obtained on the exhaust valves should be between 0.008-0.012 in. (0.20-0.30mm). If not, replace the selective shim by turning the camshaft lobe downward and installing tool J-38413-2 or J-38413-3 (valve lash spring spacer) between the camshaft journal and the cam lobe next to the selective shim. Turn cam lobe upward and remove the selective shim. Install new shim using the selective shim chart.The rear camshaft bearing caps must be removed to remove the selective shim. The valve clearance obtained on the intake valves should be between 0.004-0.008 in. (0.10-0.20mm). If not, replace the selective shim by turning the camshaft lobe downward and installing tool J-38413-2 or J-38413-3 between the camshaft journal and the cam lobe next to the selective shim. Turn cam lobe upward and remove the selective shim. Install new shim using the selective shim chart. When the adjustment is completed, install the cylinder head covers and connect the battery negative cable. Start the engine and check for leaks.end quote.the real question is.where do i get shims from a dead car company if in USA? now that be the big question.

https://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html posted 100s of times, best deal on all cars made , usa. only USA. nobody ever posts country, so answers here are wrong, most times' even mine due to that one fact and posters clueless to which of 7 engines are in car.

its an Isuzu engine. there are 3 engines. 4XE1, SOHC 1.6L (base)12valves 4XE1, DOHC , 1.6L same as above but now with 16valves. 4XE1, DOHC, 1.8L bends valves if belt snaps... note the bad idea of ISUZU calling all 3 engine same name. a horrid idea. which one? the second was in USA and Canada only. the second one was offered as the GSI. is yours that? so I will attempt to guess for you, its the base engine. (odds of coin toss) toss #2, USA, SOHC guess 3: did a new belt and want to do lash next. Cam belt> No job stated so i guess 3 times. Just lash. SOHC 1.6L only (FSM book quote) Check the valve lash between the rocker arm and valve stem on both the intake and exhaust valves on the number 1 cylinder, the intake valve(s) on the number 2 cylinder and the exhaust valve on the number 3 cylinder. If the valve lash on the intake valves is not 0.006 in. (0.15mm), adjust the valve lash. If the valve lash on the exhaust valve is not 0.010 in. (0.25mm), adjust the valve lash. 1.6L twin cam has shims. 1.8L has HLA , no lash to set. HLA= Hydraulic Lash adjusters. I posted this before, search for it. Im only doing 1 engine.

old post answer is : same as Isuzu Impulse 4XE1 my guess would be for 90. the single cam version the best source of data is alldata.com or on the storm forums. some links here. http://www.fixkick.com/storm.html old post but, rare cars. i help on rare.

rare car storm, a GM badged, ISUZU IMPULSE (3 engines offered) why would you do that,? the car is 25 years old. most the parts on the car are long served there purpose. here is a list for that car , with unstated engine.

1. brakes like new. stopping safe wins all bets.
2. new cam belt if DOHC, so to first. its interference engine.
3. all fluids fresh , no leaks allowed. (for sure brake and fuel)
4. all new hoses, (every one, vacuum and water.)
5. all new accessory belts.
6. shocks and struts (cartridges if sold)
7. Tires 25years old, id bet not.
8. M/T trans, get a new clutch ?
9. a new o2 sensor. they have design life of 100k. so....
10. no engine size stated, so cant check valve type. HLA or solids.
11. but if it has solids, add lash checks to list. (part of the 60k service list. (got one?) 1.8L has HLA, the 1.6L has lash. the 1.6L twin cam has solids with shims.
12. New PCV valve
13. all new filters, air and ext. fuel.?

the fuel pump , is covered in the FSM. and at alldata.com if your replaced it , odds are the new pump from china would be what. less quality? a big risk changing out parts, like this. but rockauto.com offers a nice list of quality pumps , avoid the cheap one. ILL quote the fsm for you

1. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. Refer to the procedure later in this section.
2. Remove the 8 fuel pump mounting screws.
3. Remove the fuel pump bracket from the tank.
4. Loosen the screw-type fitting, then disconnect the fuel pump supply hose extension from the bracket.
5. Remove the gasket from the pump bracket or tank.
6. Remove the filter from the pump pick-up tube.
7. Unplug the electrical wires from the pump.
8. Remove the fuel pump bracket.
9. Disconnect the outlet hose from the pump.

tank out

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the fuel filler cap from the fuel tank.
3. Have a Class B fire extinguisher near the work area. Use a hand operated pump device to drain as much fuel through the fuel filler neck as possible.
4. Use a siphon to remove the remainder of the fuel in the tank by connecting the siphon to the fuel pump outlet fitting.
5. reinstall the fuel pump outlet hose to its fitting, install the fuel filler cap.
6. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
7. Remove the center exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter. If necessary, completely remove the center exhaust pipe from the vehicle.
8. Loosen the clamp, then remove the fuel filler neck hose from the fuel tank.
9. Loosen the clamp, then remove the fuel overflow pipe hose from the fuel tank.
10. Unplug the fuel gauge sending unit and fuel pump electrical connectors.
11. Disconnect the fuel feed, return and vapor hoses from their respective pipes. For each hose, either spread the retaining clamp or loosen the screw-type retaining nut.
12. For 1993 vehicles, remove the 2 retaining bolts, then disconnect the parking brake cables from the tank.
13. Using a suitable transaxle jack, support the fuel tank.
14. For 1993 vehicles, remove the 4 retaining bolts, then lower the tank and heat shield from the vehicle.
15. Except for 1993 vehicles, remove the 6 fuel tank retaining bolts and lower the tank.

lost this?

Carry to mechanic who can check fuel pump output. Some fuel pumps work ok when idling but don't put out enough pressure when trying to accelerate. Pressure is the key. They can check it.

log in to alldata.com and read that? its there? anyone can,

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system.
2. remove core hoses passing thru fire wall.
3. Remove the three duct mounting screws.
4. Disconnect the duct between the blower assembly and the heater unit.
5. Remove the five screws attaching the mode control case to the heater core case.
6. Remove the mode control case. Do not remove the link assembly.
7. Remove the five screws to separate the two halves of the heater core case.
8. remove the core.

storm what engine? 4xe1 or 4xf1 SOHC or DOHC (twin cam)? its really an Isuzu Impulse in snack skins (badges) does test fuel run engine? that is step 2. if the cam timing belt slips, the DOHC goes boom. the SOHC engine belt slip,cause no starts, due to huge compression drop, and fails the test fuel tests. SOHC, keyon, 30-46PSI same for both. engines but as all mPI engines it drop running at idle. and rises at WOT> (FPR actions most work right running) ask but its no running ever do a 60,000 interval tuneup with a new cam belt. no?

its just 1 lever , 1 cable and 2 arms (bell cranks) the lever arm moves the cable, the cable then moves the damper arm. ( cave man simple and super reliable) if it came loose at the far end, then the clip is missing? finding GEO parts can be hard, (Geo is dead) its really a Isuzu Impulse. rebadge job. here is GM parts list. note some are not sold now ! and isuzu is defunct here to, so....... USA. http://www.tonkinonlineparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=825350&ukey_make=1087&ukey_model=15866 those levers are bell cranks. the ends have holes. (for cable) some cables are dog legged and just fit in , no clips other cars use clips. if the clip i lost the cable can not be held to the Cranks (damper levers) ever been to an auto store,and seen the huge selection of generic parts, called HELP.? (red blister packs galore) they have clips.

I don't think there is any sensor, you might need to check all the plug wires one of the wires might have come loose if they all are good then check to make sure that your getting fuel to the motor even if your fuel pump is working you might have a blockage in the fuel line, double check the timing to make sure that its right because if its off just a hair it will cause the car not to start. once you have done that if it still wont start hit me up and we will go from there ill check to see what else we should do to get your car up and going!!!!!

I would go for the fuel injectors. Dry carbon, being black(to much fuel) or white (to little fuel). Both lean to the injectors. Clogged or open. My guess would be black. The crack would really only cause a O2 sensor fault, sucking air, that could cause a white burn on the plugs, to lean. Have the codes read..

The simple answer would be to turn the crank until the timing marks are lined up, then move the distributor until the rotor is pointing to the number one plug wire. If it still does not want to start, you may have to turn the rotor 180 degrees and try again.

I would look into replacing the coil even though it is sending spark it might not be enough and I would go through and just double check all my wires as well as the firing order because if it's off just a little it will make the car run rough

the timing is 180 degrees out so ignore where no 1 lead should be and rewire the HT leads to the new position for no1 cylinder. The crank timing mark should be on 10 degrees advanced. Engines are timed off the crank position so forget the cam position. Or you can start again. Remove no 1 plug and turn the engine over until you feel compression under your finger over the plug hole. Set the timing on the crank to 10 degrees before tdc. Position the distributor so that the point of the star is directly opposite the exciter coil in the distributor. The rotor button should now be facing no 1 cylinder plug lead adjust the HT leads so that they will fire in the 1342 firing order. Start the engine and with a timing light attached to no 1 plug lead adjust the timing mark to specifications by turning the body of the distributor.

Except for the ignition coil, that about takes care of the secondary ignition system. You should check to see if you have a good strong blue spark at one of the spark plug wires. If no spark, check the coil and the crank position sensor for one place to start, also the ignition control module. If you do have spark, the ignition should be good, and then you could concentrate elsewhere. If there is a schrader valve on top of the engine-a fuel pressure test port-it would be easy to check fuel pressure. Autozone and others loan a fuel pressure tester. Possibly, a 1990 Storm may require a temporary "tee fitting" in the fuel line somewhere to test pressure. Look for the test port- it may have a cap that unscrews. It would be located in the fuel rail or the line to the injectors. Beyond that, other problems could be dirty injectors, a malfunctioning EGR valve, a large intake manifold gasket leak, or worst case, a mechanical internal problem. If it gets to that, perform a compression test. If you have good compression in all cylinders, it should be good internally.

What is the question --in detail

on the transmission. its a reverse gear light. on m/t on the A/T its called the PRNDL switch see that R, that switch closes. this switch is at the other end of the shift cable. at tranny.