20 Most Recent 1996 Saab 900 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Check to see if your heater tap has been bi-passed. A lot of owners chose to do this as the heater tap is an expensive thing to replace.should be on the left hand side under your wiper blades looking in under the bonnet you should see two plastic pipes coming out from around the firewall.

When you raise your hood find the distributor follow the wires. should lead you to a cover with 4 or 6 screw will need a star screw driver to remove under that cover are your spark plugs.

There is a lock in the ignition lock cylinder that holds the key in the run position after going to START. The locking mechanism is made of lead which will wear after while creating these problems because of the softness of the metal, but a replacement should last you as long as the original.

Physically look in the radiator under the cap when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.You can simply replace or unplug the sensor. Unplugging it should turn off the warning light and won

Hello and welcome to FixYa!
You may have electrical issues. As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you remove the positive battery connector and let it sit for atleast 10mins. or more before reconnecting it. This will reset the system and can get it back to it's normal operation.
If the problem still persists then it can be a battery or alternator issue. If the alternator or battery is faulty this issues can occur as well. Please have it checked before deciding on what to replace.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

i just put new breaks on my 1996 saab 900s front and back but the abs light comes on and off, also over a week ago and my check engine light is on and staying on all the fluids and everything is in the car i dont no what it is and nobody knows i just bought the car June 26, 2011 please help.

Give some more details of the problem.

The bendix in the starter is the part of the starter that triggers into the flywheel itself during starter to flywheel engagement.The Starter motor can keep running because of a number of things. It receives its power from the large contacts (switch) in the starter solenoid. WHen engaged, this starter sol. allows high current 12 volts to run the starter motor.
A number of things can cause the starter solenoid to stay engaged:
A) stuck starter solenoid mechanicals.
B) more likely a defective start position on the ignition switch in the ignition switch.
C) possibly a gummed up ignition key tumbler .
-------------- I suggest remove and re check the starter terminals, the wires are not connecting . Both of the red cables (one from batt +, one from alt) are supposed to go on the outer terminal on your solenoid.There should be no external cables connected to the terminal you mentioned, both should be connected to the outer terminal. The starter doesn't need a separate ground cable, it grounds through the engine block and the main battery to engine block ground wire.-------------- Remove this terminal and clean the terminals and reconnect.-------- If the problem is still the same then starter needs to be replaced.,--------- Replacing the starter should solve the issue, but if in case the power windows and roof not starting to work after replacing the starter then,the fuses and relay in the fuse box are to be checked.The fuse box in the instrument panel under the dash and fuse box in the engine compartment under the hood.--------- Check the fuses and relays in both fuse box.--------- If all fuse and relay checks ok, then problem relates to power window switch or wiring to the switch is shorted.------- But first test the starter connections , if not solved then replace the starter.----------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

if you take a good flash lite bright and shine it on dash at the right angle you can usally see the i cons or words

Open the trunk and on RHD side you.ll find wire with yellow end .Just pull

the pastic onthe top to hid it won,t go up higher and catchs on the new top,,,,,is the a ajusment

You'll need a euro capable scanner to pull codes. Most code readers are not compatable with european software.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome.

sounds like cable is worn- remove interior panel of trunk on flap side and pull cable with pliers- replace cable after

You require the radio make, model and serial number to be re-posted

The first attempt is a simple one..

Ensuring the hand brake is fully released.

Try rocking the car back and forth gently.. and I mean under power.. more backing up than forward motion. Sometimes this will release or allow the expander to let go.

Next..
Locate the e brake cable behind the wheel.. grab it and push it toward the center of the car..this may release the e brake..sometimes the sheathing wears off near the brake and the cable can rust or bind at or near that point.

If that doesn't do it.. you can tap the exposed part of the expander on the brake..generally located at the top part of the brake assembly.. with a small hammer..again..sometimes this will pop it lose.

Lastly some modes have an adjuster that allows the ebrake to be tweaked without removing the wheel.. if you can't locate it.. you will have to remove the wheel.. and hub.. and tap the expander until it frees up..

If you do a google search for 1996 Saab e brake diagram.. you will see what the expander looks like.. of if you look for brake parts.. the diagrams will show the expander.

The cable or the expander is frozen due to rust dirt etc.. sometimes when it's cold..ice and slush.

Best of luck!