Top 10 1997 Land Rover Discovery Questions & Answers

black socket, black 7 core wire
pin 1 yellow left indicator
pin 2 blue, rear fog light
pin 3 white earth
pin 4 green right indicator
pin 5 brown right side/tail light
pin 6 red brake lights
pin 7 black left side/tail light

Grey socket grey 7 core wiring
pin 1 yellow, reverse
pin 2 blue, supplementary feed (ignition)
pin 3 white, earth
pin 4 green live feed (battery +)
pin 5 brown not connected
pin 6 red supplementary feed (ignition)
Pin 7 black earth

On the discovery there is a purpose made plug behind the panel on the drivers side rear, behind the rear lamp
i think the relay you have bought is for lamp failure you just need a normal 4 pin 30 amp relay.
Good luck Davelee

before you cut or rewire the alarm, when welding the disco although disconecting the battery protects the battery, the imobiliser holds current, this my have gone into system factory setting, so it my be worth getting the imob and key re-conected, this is a cheap job at any Landrover specialist. hope your running smooth soon

Could be your fuse too. Middle row of passenger side fuse box fourth from the right

well do not no if you keep up on your oil change but lack of oil change and if you are not use recommended oil cheap oil can slug the pic up tube and couse all type of isuses but if you can get oil pressure gauge and test it the psi buy puling out this sending unit and butting gauge there to see if you have bad sending unit hope this helps

The discovery is as previously mentioned permanent four wheel drive.However the difflock/range lever in most suffers from lack of use and siezes all i had to do when i bought mine was plenty of WD40 and patience as i don't think it had been in low range or difflock from the day it was built.don't try to force it just spray it and let it soak then try keep doing this and it should free up if not it may be the selector grubscrew has worked loose just threadlock it and screw it back in.

Behind right hand trim kick panel located on the top right hand side.

if its a replacemet fob it can only be done with diagnostic equipment
if its the original fob you need to de-activate the alarm system with a 4 digit code from the vehicles security card, I cant recall how to do it but details are in the owner's hand book. once the alarm is dissabled you need to hold the fob close to the vehicle and press either of the buttons on the fob 4 times or more in quick succession.

Behind right hand trim kick panel located on the top right hand side...

Check this picture also

Hi, this is almost always caused by the Idle Control Valve (IAC), which is located near the firewall, on the passenger side, next to the throttle body. They sell for about $50. On generation 1 cars (1993 to 1997) these are very difficult to remove and install, but it can be done-or you could try to 'SEAFOAM" the intake by running a bottle in the gas tank and taking another bottle and run it through the intake by disconnecting the PVC hose while the engine is running, push the hose (it will **** the Seafoam into the intake) and then let it sit for about 10 minutes. Two bottles will run you about $14. When you start it up, expect alot of smoke-it might even bring the volunteer fire company, but it is the carbon build up being cleaned out of the engine. The engine should be fully warmed up before you do this. After you do this, disconnect the positive battery cable for about 10 minutes-it allows the computer (ECU) to 'relearn' inputs from the various sensors like the IAC. I actually did this on two Generation One marks I have owned, and in both cases, it cured the problem. The high idle in drive and park is tough on the engine and murder (in drive) on the already fragile transmission, not to mention the brutal effect it has on U-joints when you shift into drive at high RPM's, so you want to get it fixed as soon as possible or park it until you can solve it.

Did you use your transfer case?