20 Most Recent 2000 Hyundai Sonata - Page 4 Questions & Answers

I have a 2000 Sonata V6 with the same issue (low speed intermittent stalling). Finally found a Hyundai dealer that knew about the issue and replaced the CRANK SENSOR. This has dramatically reduced the stalling but it still occurs very rarely. I think the engine idle speed of my car is abnormally low and this may be a secondary issue not completely related.

Could be 32mm or 34mm.

Is the battery dead & needs to be replaced?

What you want to do is look for this: http://www.autopartsfreak.com/catalog-1/itemdetail/standard-motor-products/fv-7 Also, in the attached diagram you are looking for item #16. If things get stuck for you, specifically you are looking for the location of the FV-7 valve. Go to the attached diagram first. Find that relay and see if there is something there!

he may have bent the backing plate on inner side of wheel,tell him to remove that wheel and look at the metal plate behind the brakes,try spinning the wheel this will tell him where he needs to bend that plate back out. with a straight screwdriver, insert inbetween the brake rotor and push that backing plate away fro the brake rotor. this should take care of the scraping noise. thank you for choosing fixya.com please rate my solution if i've been of service,thanks

As you can see, the brake lines for this particular product are all together, so removing a specific one is difficult at best. This is not a case for a neophyte, but should be handled by a competent and qualified brake mechanic. Getting a car to go is easy. Getting them to stop is life-threatening. However, if you insist I first have to say if it were me behind the wrench, this is what I would do, but you might not. In other words, if you crash, I am not taking responsibility. Do this project at your own peril and risk. You are going to have to get to know a person that works in hydraulic lines. You will need a compression fitting, a line bender and crimper and a rubber hose that will go from the piston connection to a female connector. Basically you find where the leak is and remove that portion of the line and with the crimper and other parts, you put the female connector on the line that failed. From there you connect the rubber male end to the repaired line to the piston connection. Keep in mind, this is probably a temporary fix at best. Most of the time, when you replace a part of the line, the best way to do it is to replace the complete line, but since the Hyundai is an all in one welded together, you have a task ahead of you. Again, since you have to ask, this shows that this entire procedure is levels above your mechanical skills. I am not saying this to be rude but this repair needs to be done by someone that can be held accountable when you go over dead man's curve. I would spend the extra bucks here. Then again, carburetors are magic to me. Thank god for fuel injection.

there is usually a fuse for them under acc find it in the fuse block I am not sure where this one is but that is most likely your problem

this is usually around the thermostat gooseneck housing or water pump area it is a plug with 2 wires on it , this is the most likely place on all cars and trucks

Have you scanned the air bag computer for codes? There are many parts to the air bag system, simply replacing parts without knowing why the light is on would be extremely costly.

There are several response to your issue. First, in a quiet place physically pull up on the brake pedal. Listen for a click. If you hear it, then the brake switch has failed. Replace the switch. Also while you are down there, check to make sure it is plugged in. It could have disconnected. Next step is to replace both of the 1157 bulbs. You can get them from any auto supply store. Finally, under the hood is the relay box. Find the relay that corresponds with the tail lights. Pull that relay and see if there is one like it, amps, etc. Swap the two and see if the problem follows. These are some of the cheap and easy ones. There could be a code that is stuck and needs to be read. If you know what you are doing, great, use a code reader. If not, find a car repair place and have them read the code and see what is going on. From this area, the next item is to spend lots of money. Apparently Hyundai has a lot of rigs doing this. To me that says they have an issue and won't address it. You might want to check with a local dealer and see if there is any recalls or bulletins that you can get taken care of free. Probably not though. I have seen rigs from 1998 all the way to new with this issue and no one seems to know how to fix it other than cutting wires and adding gimmicks to their cars. Definitely not for the neophyte repair person. It might be time to look into a different vehicle. Trade yours in for someone else's problem? Good luck.

there are several things that could cause that and is hard to say with little info provided but here are a few.. IAC, idle air control, solenoid is sticking, MAF, mass air flow sensor is bad... a good scan tool will tell you. throttle body needs cleaned or as simple as a clogged air fillter

The ignition module in the distributor normally handles this job as it controls the current flow through the coil.