20 Most Recent 2006 Kia Rio Questions & Answers

In a 2006 Kia Rio, the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve is typically located on the engine, near the intake manifold. The EGR valve is responsible for recirculating a small amount of exhaust gas back into the intake manifold to lower the combustion temperature and reduce the formation of nitrogen oxides (NOx) emissions. The exact location of the EGR valve can vary depending on the engine type, but it is usually found on the top or side of the engine near the intake manifold or throttle body. It may be mounted to the intake manifold or to a separate bracket. It is usually a cylindrical shaped valve and it may have vacuum or electrical connector. You may consult your vehicle's service manual or a professional mechanic to locate the EGR valve specifically on your 2006 Kia Rio.

Hi, you might have move through the bottom of the car to open the hood. Or possibly by removing a tiring and use a long pole of some sort to unleash the latch that holds the hood down while someone else raises the hood. Thank you.

There isn't an inline filter like you see in most vehicles. Your fuel filter is part of the fuel pump assembly and is located in the fuel tank. If you are dealing with a fuel pressure problem there is good news. The fuel tank does not have to be removed to get at the fuel pump assembly on your vehicle. If you remove the lower part of the back seat, there is an access plate. Once that plate is removed you have pretty easy access to be able to remove the fuel pump assembly. Below are some pictures that should help. Hope it does....

gear problem -please check with obd the tcm and provide the dtc

This should cover most models. Bleed nipple is on slave cylinder beside inlet line. Crack bleeder before fitting silicon tube and make sure free enough to back out 1/2 turns by hand, finger tighten again and fit 1-2 metres of 5mm internal diameter silicon rubber tube to nipple with other end in clear glass jar or bottle. Ensure all fittings are secure, top up brake master cylinder reservoir. (this feeds clutch master) Move clutch pedal about 50mm up and down slowly until fluid stops presenting bubbles. (you can have the jar in the car with you to see this happening Thus the 2metres of tube.) Stop pumping when this happens - lift clutch pedal and tighten bleeder nipple with spanner. Test if any air in line by pushing clutch pedal til stops and hold for 5 seconds release ans press again - measure distance when pressure is felt between 2 actions of peddle -they should be same. if not you still have air. repeat bleeding procedure. WARNING - brake/clutch fluid is corrosive and melts paint and plastic. do not get it in your eyes.If spilt IMMEDIATELY wash with copious amounts of water. Good luck AJ

CHECK ENGINE OIL PUMP

starter motor sounds faulty

have the injectors serviced /cleaned keep the tank filled to reduce condensation use quality injector cleaner

Hi, looks like there is a sensor on the filler cap/lid side. which is faulty and not sending correct signal to the main computer in the car.

Hi I doubt it will do any harm, return the car to dealer and request answers plus request they clean the engine compartment and the car as it looks and smells awful. In future make sure you shop around before having your car dealer serviced. Jp.

check fuel reg., fuel filter, fuel pressure, gas cap seal

Sound system w/o amplifier. Not only check the fuses, check the fuse circuit for voltage, use a test lite. As you can see, one fuse is hot all the time, the other fuse goes hot with the key on. Also check ground wire, that wire color is black.

Disconnect battery for 15 min.if not could be a small leak.

First of all, it does absolutely no good to clear codes without properly diagnosing the code and correcting the problem that caused the code to set in the first place. It will only result in the code returning again and again as you can now see.You must also know how the system works and what failure is indicated by the code. Please note that fault codes NEVER tell you what parts to replace. Then you must know what conditions in the system cause the code to set in order to perform a valid diagnosis of the system.failure.With all that said, let's take a look at the code itself:Diagnostic Test Code (DTC) P0496 is defined by SAE J2011 as "Evaporative Emission System High Purge Flow".Purge flow is determined by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) by looking at the Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor. When there is little or no purge flow, the FTP sensor will read high pressure. If there is too much purge flow, the FTP will read low pressure.The code is clearly stating that there is too much purge flow (or low pressure/high vacuum in the tank). The people that have been trying to diagnose this problem apparently do not understand this. Leaks in the system like leaking lines or defective fuel caps will cause the pressure to be too high when it is SUPPOSED to be low and will set a code P0455, P0456, or P0457. Smoke testing and fuel cap replacement is what you do for THESE codes, NOT code P0496.In simple terms, what is happening here is that the PCM is telling the EVAP system to stop purging and it is continuing to purge anyway. This is usually caused by a stuck open Purge Control Solenoid Valve (PCSV). Now I do not know which solenoid they replaced, but I am willing to bet that they replaced the Canister Control Valve (CCV) also known as the "vent solenoid". Again, this might be a good strategy for the other codes listed above, but not the code we are working with.The other thing that eats at my craw here is that they are randomly replacing parts, evidently without testing them first to see if they are defective and/or are the CAUSE of your problem. I do not call this diagnosis. I call this "parts-nosis". This is where a technician just starts replacing all the parts in the system untill he finally finds the one that takes care of the problem. And YOU have to pay for it! Not only are you paying for parts that do not fix the problem, but they also have the nerve to charge you for "diagnosis" time to find the problem. Then they wonder why people think that mechanics are nothing but a bunch of rip-offs!So plain and simple, they are not finding anything wrong with your EVAP system because they are simply looking for the wrong problem. They are looking for a system leak when they should be looking at why the pressure is low or vacuum keeps increasing when the PCM is telling it to stop.There is pretty much only three things that can cause this code:> Stuck open PCSV (most likely)> Defective fuel tank pressure sensor> Defective or mis-calibrated PCM