20 Most Recent 2006 Hyundai Sonata - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Easiest is loose alternator belt next is bad battery if that checks out check volts out of alternator hope this helps

Sounds like the brake light switch is bad its located under the dash behind the brake pedal.Hope this helped.

Just swap the relay with another in the fuse box. If it starts, replace the relay. If not look at the fuse and starter.

Proceed like this : (1) Check the fuel flow , could be problem of fuel pump. (2) Check the camshaft and crank shaft position sensor , there must MIL light glowing because of it. If yes , The Camshaft Position sensor is typically located in the cylinder head of the engine and has a cylindrical portion that inserts into the head. The Crankshaft Position sensor is normally located in the timing cover or on the side of the block with a cylindrical portion that inserts into the block. If No, fuel pump could be the only problem.

not sure but remove the can and test both bulbs with a multimeter for continuity. if there is no continuity the bulbs are bad and should be replaced. I hope this information helps.

This is a very wide question. Anything bad from blowing a fuse to burnt wiring can result from a short. Just to cover the basics. What is a short? An electrical circuit consists of a power supply (battery, alternator), a load (electric motor, lamp, resistor etc) a switch and finally a conductor - the wires and a fuse. The electricity must flow through the whole circuit in order for it to work. A short circuit, commonly called a short, means a path is present for some reason or other that causes the electricity to bypass some parts of the designed circuit. Say for example you have a front end accident, and the headlamp is broken is such a way that the bulb leads are shorted to earth. There is now a short between the headlamp wires and earth, and the headlamp fuse will burn out, also known as "blow". If, however, an accident causes a short between the fuse box and the power supply, the wires themselves now will act as a fuse, and they will burn out., causing lots of smoke and toxic fumes. Car electrics are designed to be safe from electric fires and short circuits by using fuses, circuit breakers and relays, but funny things can happen. I hope this helps.

Probably your charging system (generator) A Bad battery can cause problems with your charging system also. Go to your local Auto Parts Store and they will probably check both your charging system and battery for you for Free. They are usually really good about that - they can sell more parts that way. Let me know what you find out?

Sounds like you don't have any power at your window motor. You can unplug the wire at the window motor and use a couple of wires and the battery to see if the motor works. And you may be able to get your window up.

Sounds like switch.

My personal experience the headlights burn out frequently because it's a Hyundai. I have a 2005 Elantra (105K) and a 2007 Santa Fe (135K), and I have replaced headlights in both of those cars more than all of the 20+ other cars I have owned in my lifetime. I never touch a new bulb when replacing them, the sockets are all fine, they're just Hyundais and electric/wiring reliability is not in their capabilities. I keep a spare set of headlights in each of the cars. It's so bad that the cashier at the parts store asked me about 5 years ago if I had a Hyundai. She had the same problem with her Elantra.

cable could be broke or stretched. get under front of car if possible locate cable and pull it. this depends on type of car

Often mysterious squeaks are from dry torsion bars bushings. There are two of them mounted to the engine "sub frame." My wife's Ford Focus has this issue as well. It squeaks when driving ove rthe curb onto the driveway. The solution is to unbolt the two hold-down clamps that secure the torsion bar to the subframe then apply soime silicone grease inside the rubber bushing so that the rubber will no longer "grab" when the torsion bar moves.

there is a tsb for the brake switch in 06 sonatas. it must be adjusted or replaced by dealership. is your check engine light on, if so its probably code p0504

hi.

first call the repair shop and explain what has happened.
they may offer to send the insulation to you, or to cover some or all of the cost getting the car back to them for them to refit it, as they should have fitted it properly before you took the car away.

i am not sure where you stand legally with this, because while they should have refitted the insulation, it is also your responsibility to check that the repairs are satisfactory before accepting the car back. this would include checking that things have been refitted properly.

i would call the repair shop before doing anything else and see what they have to say.

hope this helps.

First step is to see if you can short the switch to work right at the switch itself. If you can do that then you are down to a wire issue still even after you have replaced what you have. There also may be fuse dedicated to just the drivers side itself. It does not make sense for that to be but that is where I would take it next is to see if it is an isolated circuit for some reason.

P2118 - Electronic Throttle Control(ETC) system is made of the components throttle body, Throttle Position Sensor(TPS)1&2 and Accelerator Position Sensor(APS) 1&2. The throttle body contains the actuator, the throttle plate and the throttle position sensor (potentiometer), which are integrated in one housing. The actuator consists of a DC motor with a two-stage gear. The opening angle of the throttle valve is detected by the throttle position sensor which is mounted on the throttle body. And it provides feedback to the ECM to control the throttle motor in order to control the throttle valve opening angle properly in response to the driving condition.

P2119 - associated

P2110 - A bulletin provides the procedure to clean the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC)
throttle body of Theta-2.0L/2.4L engine equipped vehicles. If a vehicle exhibits the
condition(s) listed below and deposits are found at the valve-to-bore interface inside the
ETC throttle body, clean the throttle body using the procedure described in this bulletin.

This throttle body cleaning procedure should be performed when diagnosing
the conditions listed below. Do not replace the throttle body prior to performing
this procedure.

Any of the following conditions may be caused by throttle body deposits:
• No start (due to throttle valve stuck closed or air flow signifcantly restricted)
• Rough idle or fluctuating engine speed at idle (due to air flow restriction)
• MIL "On" with DTC P2118 or P2119 occurring along with P2110:
• P2118: Throttle Actuator Control Motor Current Range/Performance
• P2119: Throttle Actuator Control Throttle Body Range/Performance
• P2110: Throttle Actuator Control System-Forced Limited Power

It seems CLEAR you have a STICKING butterfly plate in the throttle body.

You could possibly have a "brake lamp switch" faulty in your vehicle. There is a recall on these for certain model vehicles. Your vehicle may think your brakes are on, which isn't allowing the cruise control to activate. Also the new Hyundai's are manufactured that if the Engine light is on, your cruise control won't work. But I would try the Stop Lamp Switch first. Hope this helps.

Sounds like your car is going into limp mode. 2 possible situations here, First could be a throttle body issue. Because the TPS is part of the throttle body there is no way to replace just the "Throttle Position Sensor" They did do a recall on the Santa Fe's with the 6 cylinder enginges, but I don't believe the Sonata's fell in that category. The other issue that could be persisting of this could be your accelerator pedal itself. 2006 model Sonata's were actually electronic. (no accelerator cable) but in fact you plugged them into the computer, and your ECM/BCM told the car how much to accel. I had a client come in with a similiar incident, in which another garage replaced the Throttle body, and he still couldn't accelerate. We replaced his gas pedal and he was a happy camper. Look at those possible routes.

Underneath your battery there is a rod that goes into your transmission. It is below your "Inhibitor switch". These get "Gummed" up and won't allow you to shift from park, as it connects to a cable that runs to your gear shift. Most people have the opposite problem and can't shift into park and get their keys out of their ignition. This needs to be cleaned to ensure the rod can move freely, and should get that shifter moving. Second issue could persist in the Neutral safety aspect. There is as far as I know a recall on the "Stop Lamp Switch" which if this is malfunctioning, your car don't detect that you have the brake on therefore not allowing the safety to release allowing you to switch from park. And if all else fails, you should see a "Park release" cubby up by the park lever, flick that cover off, and this bypasses your safety and you should be able to get it out of park that way.