Answer 2 described my problem exactly, & solved it
in my 2006 Hyundai Elantra.
I had put the black "fuse puller" looking jumper in backwards.
Reversing it brot my radio, clock, dome lights & remote back to working.
Thank You
The 4-wire sensor is for vehicles rated as Ultra Low Emission Vehicles. If you have a 5-wire connector, your vehicle isn't ULEV. NTK is the brand installed at the factory and that's the brand you should use. Go to rockauto.com and you can buy it there if your local store can't get that brand.
The remote should have came with the diagrams. Just a note... Don't trust online sites for wiring. They could be for anything. I buy mine. Alldatadiy.com or mitchel.com
HCs (Hydrocarbons): Unburned droplets of raw fuel that smell, affect breathing, and contribute to smog
The Basics
The evaporative control (EVAP) system captures any raw fuel evaporating from the fuel storage system (e.g. the fuel tank, filler neck, and fuel cap). Under precise operating conditions-dictated by engine temperature, speed, and load-the EVAP system stores and purges these captured fuel vapors back into the combustion process.
Want to Learn More?
The EVAP system is designed not only to capture, store, and purge any raw fuel vapors that leak from areas in the Fuel Storage system, but also to run a series of self-tests that confirm or deny the operational and vapor holding ability of the system. This is an important task because at least 20 percent of vehicle-produced air pollution originates from malfunctioning Vehicle Fuel Storage systems.
There are many ways to "leak test" the EVAP system, but most perform the leak test when the vehicle is sitting (like over night) or during the initial start-up after the vehicle has been sitting over night. The EVAP system's operational performance is also tracked by the Powertrain Computer by reading the change in the oxygen sensor voltages and short term fuel trim whenever the stored vapors are released or "purged" back into the combustion process. These values should indicate that fuel is being added to the system and that the overall mixture is getting richer. The purging process occurs when the vehicle is under acceleration, which is when most vehicles require additional fuel.
P0455 Diagnostic Theory for Shops and Technicians
The P0455 code indicates that there is a large leak in the EVAP system, but this is somewhat misleading. What the code really indicates is that the EVAP system will not create a significant vacuum when it performs its leak test, as monitored by the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor.
Here is how the evaporative leak test is performed by the Powertrain Computer:
When the leak test is performed, the vehicle must have been sitting for at least four to eight hours so that the engine temperature and outside air temperature are identical. There must also be between 15 and 85 percent fuel in the tank-this is to provide a baseline for the test since gasoline and diesel are volatile fluids that expand and vaporize easily with warm temperatures.
When the leak test initiates, the Vapor Canister Vent Valve is closed to prevent any fresh air from entering the EVAP system.
The Purge Valve is opened, which allows the engine to create a vacuum in the EVAP system.
After a specified time interval-usually about ten seconds-the Purge Valve is shut off and the vacuum level in the system is measured by the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor.
Finally, a countdown initiates, which measures the rate at which the vacuum decays in the system. If the vacuum decays much faster than the specified rate or if no amount of vacuum is reached on two consecutive tests, then the Powertrain Computer will fail the EVAP system for a gross leak and trigger the P0455 code.
Common Tests for the Evaporative System
The P0455 code is somewhat misleading because the problem may not be a large/gross leak at all. Many systems trigger this code if there is no EVAP flow detected, which is tracked by changes in Short Term Fuel Trim and Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor data. For example, if the Purge Valve is shorted and never closes, it can trigger a P0455. Be ready to think outside of the box when tracking down the cause of a P0455.
Retrieve the code and write down the freeze frame information to be used as a baseline to test and verify any repair.
Perform a pressurized smoke test. During the test, perform a careful and close examination of the visible hoses, fuel filler neck, installed filler cap, fuel tank, vent valve, purge valve, and vapor holding canister. Open the Throttle Body to make sure there isn't an internal leak that is flowing smoke into the intake manifold. (Be sure to close off the vent valve during the smoke test! If possible, use tape so you don't overwork the electrical portion of the Vent Solenoid by having it energized for too long.)
Run an additional smoke test while using the scan tool live data stream feature with the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor PID in plain view. As the test inserts smoke into the fuel storage system, the Fuel Tank Pressure readings should increase. If the pressure readings do not increase, the system will think that no pressure or vacuum is being created when the EVAP monitor is performed when, in fact, there is a pressure/vacuum being created that Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor is unable to read. The Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor is the primary feedback sensor that the Powertrain Computer relies on for the leak test data each time the EVAP monitor is run.
Inspect and test the fuel cap to determine how well it fits onto the Fuel Tank Filler Neck. If the cap will not seal or hold vacuum/pressure, then it can trigger the P0455 code.
Verify that the Purge Valve and the Vent Valve work properly and hold vacuum for a sustained amount of time-at least thirty to sixty seconds. If either one of these valves function improperly, the system will not develop and/or hold the proper amount of vacuum. You may have to remove and bench test them. Also be sure to measure the electrical resistance of the solenoids to be sure they are in spec.
If all the components seem to function properly, then perform another smoke test of the entire EVAP system, but this time, use your sense of smell. Go around the entire system to see if you can smell any fuel odor. In some cases, the smoke will exit in a manner that is invisible, but there will be evidence of a fuel odor that will lead you to the problem area. This area may be completely hidden by the frame, fuel tank, etc.
If all tests fail, clear all the codes and perform a drive cycle test drive to make sure that the code re-sets are what are the freeze frame data points are referring to.
there are 11 EVAP codes so can you post again with the code/s that keep coming up
post every code that has come up to suggest that it is the EVAP system problem
This is generally caused by a leak in the hose somewhere. This hose is long in length plastic and has several places it could be leaking from. You'll have to take it to a shop that is equipped with a leak tester that uses smoke. They will fill the hose with smoke and easily find the leak. There really is no easy way to find it other than that. Hope that helps you.
Just asking
Is the washer tank full of fluid?
Check the hoses and jets on the windshield They could be plugged. The pump could have dirt in it. The tank could be dirty where the fluid is sucked out of the tank itself .You can take the hose off the pump then try to make the pump work. If it squirts then you know you have dirt some place.
Knocking sounds could be a couple things, assuming they are coming from the engine compartment:
Badly Frayed Belt smacking around inside the compartment, or (more likely) your engine isn't operating properly. Check your oil levels and make sure they are in the normal range, and if the oil is dirty, get it changed. Try using SeaFoam in your gas tank and run for a little while, and check your spark plugs to ensure they are in good condition and properly gapped.
It has two sensors. Bank 1 Sensor 1 is inside the engine bay under the metal heat shield on the front of the engine. Check out NTK sensors online. The one you need will be a 4 wire sensor. The NTK part number is 24588.
Are you getting power to the injectors? How do you know there is no pulse? Note, the pulse is on the ground wire from the PCM. If no power, check fuses INJ and SNSR. If you have power, the PCM may be bad. Are you getting sparks? Need more info.
Repair manual try filepeep.com if they have it, or manualsfile.com
Or you are a begining DIYer a service manual from your auto parts store will come in handy next time, and help your learn about the "Guts of your car".
