Top 20 2005 Hyundai Elantra - Page 8 Questions & Answers

HO2-S12 (Oxygen sensor 1 Bank 2) it is screwed into the exhaust system downstream (tailpipe side) of the catalytic converter.

We dont know exactly the "code number" of your description, but we could advance that is refer at bad O2 sensor in this position. Possible causes:
Contaminated HO2S.
Exhaust leaks.
Shorted/open wires.
Improper fueling.
MAF sensor.
Deteriorating HO2S.
Air leaks.

This specific Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) indicate the response rate of the upstream HO2S(s) is below some calibrated window. The test measures the HO2S amplitude and output frequency. This is accomplished by superimposing a 1.5 to 2.5 Hz square wave over Lambse. The HO2S switching is monitored during this time to see if the calibration limit is met.

Additionally, some models have a secondary air injection (AIR) system is designed to lower the exhaust emission levels after engine start up. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) commands the AIR pump relay ON by supplying a ground to the relay control circuit. This action energizes the AIR pump which forces fresh air into the exhaust stream. The PCM also commands the AIR vacuum control solenoid valve ON by supplying a ground to the control circuit. With the AIR solenoid activated, engine vacuum is then applied to the AIR shut-off valves. Fresh air from the AIR pump then enters into the exhaust stream. The air that is introduced into the exhaust system accelerates catalyst operation reducing exhaust emission levels. When the AIR system is inactive, the AIR shut-off valves prevent air flow in either direction.

After a warm start up the PCM can detect an AIR system air flow fault by monitoring the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) and short term fuel trim (FT) values. This is a passive test. If the passive test indicates a pass, the PCM takes no further action. If the passive test fails or is inconclusive, the PCM diagnostic will proceed with an intrusive or active test. The PCM will command the AIR system ON during Closed Loop operation. The active test will pass or fail based on the response from the HO2S. The active test consists of three tests run at 3 second intervals. A lean HO2S response indicates that the secondary AIR system is functioning properly. An increasing short term FT value also indicates a normal functioning system. The AIR diagnostic consists of the combination of the passive and the active tests. If the PCM detects that the HO2S and short term FT did not respond as expected on bank 1 and bank 2 DTC P0410 sets.

The AIR system consists of the following components:
The AIR pump
The shut-off valves
The vacuum control solenoid valve
The system pipes/hoses
The AIR pump relay, the fuses, and the related wiring

CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC
DTCs P0101, P0102, P0103, P0106, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0121, P0122, P0123, P0130, P0131, P0132, P0133, P0134, P0135, P0137, P0138, P0140, P0141, P0150, P0151, P0152, P0153, P0154, P0155, P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204, P0205, P0206, P0207, P0208, P0300, P0335, P0336, P0351, P0352, P0353, P0354, P0355, P0356, P0357, P0358, P0412, P0418, P0506, P0507, P1133, P1134 are not set.

Passive Tests
The engine is running for more than 3 seconds .
The engine speed is more than 600 RPM .
The throttle is steady.
The engine load is less than 80 percent .
The system voltage is more than 10.5 volts .
The mass air flow (MAF) is less than 35 g/s .
The air/fuel ratio is more than 12.5:1.
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 5-108.5°C (41-227°F) .
The engine coolant start up temperature (ECT) is between 5-80°C (41-176°F) .
The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 5-72.5°C (41-162°F) .
The power enrichment or the deceleration fuel cut-off (DFCO) is not active.

Active Tests
The engine is running for more than 3 seconds .
The engine speed is more than 600 RPM .
The throttle is steady.
The engine load is less than 80 percent .
The system voltage is more than 10.5 volts .
The MAF is less than 35 g/s .
The fuel system is in Closed Loop operation.
The evaporative emissions (EVAP) purge is active.
The ECT is more than 68°C (154°F) .
The vehicle speed is between 56-72 km/h (25-35 mph) .

CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC
Passive Tests:
- The HO2S voltage for both fuel control sensors is more than 470 mV for 20 seconds , 200 mV for 7 seconds on a warm start while the AIR system is commanded ON.
- The HO2S voltage for both fuel control sensors do not toggle above 600 mV for 25 seconds, 7 seconds on a warm start while the AIR system is commanded ON.

Active Test
- The AIR passive test is inconclusive or failed.
- The HO2S voltage for both fuel control sensors is more than 250 mV for three 3 second active tests.

ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS
The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.

CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE MIL/DTC
The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.

DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
NOTE: Refer to Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A Notice in Service Precautions.

Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help to diagnose the condition. The information may help to determine how often the condition that set the DTC occurs.
Inspect for the following conditions:
A Low AIR system air flow may cause this DTC to set.
Any excessive exhaust system back-pressure
Any moisture, water, or debris ingestion into the AIR pump
Any restrictions in the AIR pump inlet, duct, or filter
An intermittent may be caused by any of the following conditions:
Any pinched hoses or vacuum lines
Any kinked pipes/hoses or vacuum lines
Any split pipes/hoses or vacuum lines
Any heat damaged pipes
Any deteriorated hoses or vacuum lines
Any reversed inlet and outlet hoses at the AIR pump may cause a reduced air flow. This condition may cause this DTC to set. The AIR pump inlet and outlet ports should be clearly identified on the pump.
An AIR solenoid stuck open or leaking vacuum internally may hold the shut-off valves open, an audible exhaust popping noise may be heard through the air pump inlet hose. This condition may not set a code and may cause the fuel trim parameters to indicate a high percentage value at an idle
The AIR solenoid vents the vacuum from the shut-off valves when the system is inactive. Verify proper connections of vacuum hoses, reversed connections at the AIR solenoid may cause the AIR shut-off valves to be held open.
When commanding the AIR System ON with a scan tool the PCM will activate the AIR pump and the AIR solenoid. The fuel control system will then enter open loop status. This action will allow fresh air to enter the exhaust stream and cause the HO2S mV parameter to drop to near 0 mV . This would indicate a properly operating AIR system.
However if the AIR pump does not operate or there is no air flow from the pump entering the exhaust stream due to a leak in the system, the HO2S parameter may still drop below 100 mV . This is due to the fresh air being drawn into the exhaust stream from the opening of the shut-off valves. The HO2S will respond with a drop in mv readings as a result of this air leaning out the exhaust. The voltages may decrease to below 100 mV but not approach 0 mV .
If the condition is intermittent, refer to Intermittent Conditions.

TEST







continue...

HELLO !!

UNDER TRANSMISSION PAN ..

Hi,
The window scraper seal has been dislodged from its position, those white pins that you see are the locking pins that holds it down into position. If that is the one you replaced better bring it back to the shop that installed it. Plastic clips/pins might already broken.
Installing it without any experience in opening the inside mechanism of the door/window will vodi the warranty of the works that have done to it.
Placing it back, you have to remove the door cover, window regulator, wiring harness, and window glass. Just to get that small thing back into position.
Hope that helps you out.
Thanks fro asking FixYa!

Am not sure whether you have the Hyundai Owners Manual. If you don't I find it very worthwhile. Section 6, the "do it yourself section" lists page 6-34 and 6-35 for fuse descriptions. Also on the cover of the fuse box in the car under the ash tray left of the driver is a pictogram, but in any case according to my manual radio and clock are both listed on the "audio" and is in the inner panel, the 10A at the top right(next to the spare). Don't know about your roof light - hope you don't take offense but assume you checked the switch just didn't get set wrong, but if it isn't solved by fixing that one, the manual lists RoomLP controlling the inside lights, which is in the bottom (shorter) row on the far right. Of course, this might not help but if it does I could possibly scan my owner's manual page and email it if you can't find one.

before you mess it up all to *ell. call a dealer and schedule a maintenance check-up. while they have it ask them to teach the car to know your new remote. takes just a minute and they most likely will not charge you if you are there for something else.

You describe a typical 'cooling fan' problem. When moving through the air, the AC operates normally, but when stopped in traffic, it doesn't... correct?

• Hi, I can help.
• If you look down right in from (or behind) the battery onto the battery tray you will see a battery mount.
• Take a ratchet and an extension and a socket and twist that bolt out and the battery will lift up.
• That mount keeps the battery from moving and bouncing around.

• If you have any comments feel free to leave them here.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards,
Tony

Low freon for the summer, and low coolant for the winter. The heat and cooling are not related to each other. Separate systems

Replace the brake/stop lamp switch

The Thermastat has nothing to do with your AC becoming on at all because the Thermastat has to do with radiator fluids going into the engine to keep its high temperatures in check not your AC. You need to check the connection of the switch with a multimeter to see if current is getting to it and it is not then check the fuse for your AC in fuse box so see if this fuse is blowned. If the fuse is blowned tells me that there is a short in the wiring to the AC switch.

Is there a CHECK ENGINE light on? If so, find out what DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) was stored in the engine computer (ECU). If not, have the vehicle checked out/inspected by a qualified Hyundai Service Technician. This way you'll find out exactly what the problem is and what it will take to FIX IT.

Hope that helps

remove cam sensor clean it put it back in try the car if it still not right replace the sensor you may need to replace crank sensor as well when did it last have a timing belt replaced ?if its got over100 ,000 km on it and hasnt been done i would have it done if the belt brakes it can be fatal for the engine if its old then it may have jumped a tooth wich will put the cam timing out i would look there first turn the engine over by hand till the timing mark on the crank pulley is showing tdc remove the top half of the timing belt cover remove no1 spark plug use a suitable probe to check that no1 piston is at the top if so check the marks on the cam gears are in line with there marks if all marks line up the valve timing is ok

tire rotation about 29.95 depending where u go 32.95 for oil change depending where u go. depending on ur car the tuneup price varies any where from 75.00 and up.

With the engine cold and not running, remove the radiator cap and pour a 50/50 mix of coolant directly into the radiator filling it up to the neck. Leave the cap off and start the engine. Set the temperature control in the car all the way up into the red zone. The level in the radiator will drop as the pump circulates coolant to voids in the engine and the heater core. Top it off immediately. Do this for 1 or 2 minutes until the radiator stops taking fluid. Replace the radiator cap and make sure it is sealed tight. Let the engine continue to idle for a few minutes. If all is working properly, the radiator fan will eventually come on and start cycling. You should have heat in the car. If you have the tank too full to begin with, some fluid may leak out the top as it expands from the heat generated by the engine. That should subside almost immediately.

If the engine starts to boil over through the tank, shut the engine off and let it cool. Check if coolant appears to be leaking underneath the car (other than from the top of the tank). Note whether or not the electric fan came on or not. You may have a problem with the cooling fan, a bad water pump or sticking thermostat to deal with, which would explain why the coolant level was low to begin with.

Additionally, I suggest check if there have some engine temperature sensor, some model have this device and make wrong at start. Try to scanned the PCM to knowed if some fault code is stored there, some autoshop and autozone make this job for free.

Keep uspupdated.

When all of a given set of lights quit working at the same time, it usually is a blown fuse or tripped breaker. Fuses may be under the dash. Some fuses and breakers are under the hood. Most likely it is a fuse, under the dash. Fuses are all labeled. You should see the conductor inside the fuse is broken or burned into two pieces when you look at the fuse. To see that you need to pull the fuse from the fuse block. Replace the fuse with the exact same number! Good luck.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Gaker

You have some burned out switches & possible wires, you my need to take it in if it was me.

may be your oil strainer is stock up or your oil pump is damage.i recommend use the f2020 powerlube to minimize the noise.search to www.f2020technology.com

Clutch systems need to be closed and full to work properly. On some hydralic systems there is an adjustment you can make. If there is one it would be an adjustment on the clutch pedal itself, you can usually adjust the rod and length or shorten it so you can push the plunger further into the master.

If you know your master cylinder is leaking, that would be your problem. Replace the master cylinder and then bleed your clutch system as recommended.

Where your sunglass case is located there are a couple of screws to be removed, then remove the casing. There you will find a small square hole where you can crank the roof down.

Remove the front and rear sill plates. You can then pull off the middle panel.