20 Most Recent 2000 Saturn SL - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Are you sure it's not a squeeze clamp? Most likely it is not leaking from the clamp. Either the hose has a whole right next to the clamped area or the heater core is leaking. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

the compression rings are done

the green and the red will jell up in the heater core and will give you no heat

the sunroof will need to be replaced the cables are bad in it

the coil pack that cly 1 and 4 wires go to need to be replaced

it is on the back side of the engine right above the right side drive shaft

Torque converter is slipping. Check your tranny fluid.

it is the big black thing just in front the windsheild washer bottle

low or no coolant

let you find out what your is doing and if there is any problums

have car out of all gears do not push down on clutch padle and turn the key if the car start = bad safety switch if the do not start = good switch

yes it is under the a/c pump at the end of the rad hose held in by 2 ten MM bolts

If your looking for surging problems. Clean or replace the idle air control motor.

Your transmission is probably not even worth rebuilding and before you sink a bunch of money into it you should evaluate the repair costs v.s. what the car is worth overall. If you can do it yourself and get another transmission from a [pull it yourself] junkyard; you might consider that route. Otherwise, consider what you could sell it for "as is" to some somebody that can do it themselves when evaluating the situation. In other words, leave your emotional attachments to the car aside and don't get into a money pit. Take into consideration that it also may need a bunch of other parts like replacement drive axles.

Just put a spanner on the tensioner pulley (usually the smallest one) to turn it enough to get the belt on

If the belt goes around the mount then yes.

What is the EVAP code?

The O2 are not ready because it takes some time for them to complete there self check after clearing trouble codes. This will involve a few drive cycles. Once the evap problem has been resoled, the check engine light cleared, you'll have to drive it for a couple of days to get everything in the "ready" status. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

When they adjusted the brakes ,its possible they made it so you can now hear an existing issue. What's most likely happening is that your slave cylinder has frozen in one position. What this causes is for only one brake shoe to expand, not both. I'm assuming that they are drums in the rear. Replace and bleed both slave cylinders, problem solved. This exact problem happened to me about 6 months ago.

I'm guessing the antitheft worked then? Getting the codes and reprogramming a new switch, because it sounds like your switch is damaged probably beyond repair, is most likely a dealer only job. Be sitting down when they tell you how much!!