20 Most Recent 2002 Land Rover Range Rover - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Sometimes the float that tells the sensor how much fluid is in the tank sinks. When it sinks it is giving the impression that the tank is empty giving you that low coolant warning. You will have to replace the tank.

its not changing down because it doesnt need to ,what year and what model is this vehicle ,petrol or diesel

Here you have all step by step instructions & photos for timing chain replacement.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/876903

Good Luck!

When the fourth digit of the code is correctly entered the radio unlocks automatically. There is no "enter" step. If the code remains on the screen then you are entering the wrong code.

Assuming you have already checked the fuse, you next culprit on the list is liquid spill to this cluster. Happens all the time and fortunately easy fix. You can access the underside of this pannel by removeing the jockey box. (Five screws in the bottom of the center console box). The spills and other gunk accumulate over time and short or immobilise the switch(es). You may get some results with a can of compressed air without having to remove the box.

what model, if it of an old model check the points and distributer this is the only way water will switch it off.

Ok thats all 14 pages

Step 1- Check for trouble codes that may point to the failed componant. If you don't have a code reader, there are certain ignition parts that you can remove from the vehicle and take to a parts store and have tested. And the process begins. Honestly there is long list of possible items and unless you're mechanically inclined with diagnostic capabilities you could spend a lot of time and effort running coils and modules to the store to be tested. I presume you are doing proper maintenace at the recommended intervals re plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor etc. I think you might be better served to get it towed to a trusted mechanic.

May or may not be helpful, but this may have to do with the phone and/or the docking bracket you use. Check into the owners manual or WWW of your phone manufacturer. I experienced this same situation and it was due to the fact that whenever the phone was placed into the factory car dock it went into "CAR MODE" and caused an incompatibility issue with my bluetooth built into the Rover. I just stopped using the mounting bracket and problem solved. Good Luck BTW my phone was an HTC EVO 4G LTE (Sprint) at the time. Hope it helps.

A number of possibilities exist. Most likely related to the recent work. Could need further bleeding of the brake lines, additional fluid, even a stuck caliper or other dysfunction caused by the failure of the old master cylinder. In any event, start by contacting the mechanic. Any reputable shop will correct it either on site or have it towed in at their expense. Obviously for safety sake the vehicle should not be driven until corrected. Good luck!

Could be a number of issues. Hers a couple easy tips: get familiar with your "sport mode" switch next to the stick. This is basicall an overdrive switch. Consult your owners manual for details. Also, the p38 is not known for its "takeoff" speed. Its a heavy vehicle with a small block v-8. Ive heard lots of theories and stories of performance chips etc, but Ive never personally witnessed any of them work to an acceptable degree. Take comfort in knowing that few vehicles can hold a match to yours when climbing forested hillsides or racing thru Sahara sand. Its not a street racer so embrace the many strengths it does posess. Hope this helps out. Feel free to post more info/questions and Ill do my best to assist any way I can. Good luck!

This is probably a failed U-Joint or universal joint on your driveline. Probably the forward drive shaft (or propeller shaft as the Brits say) at the transfer case. This U-joint failure is not uncommon in the P-38 and usually occurs at 110,000+ miles or there abouts. The long term parking just contributed to the loss or drying of the lubricant causing a seizure and snapping of the u-joint. Not a huge job for the do-it-yourselfer with some level of competency but its a greasy one. Happy to help more if you would like to post additional questions. Good luck.

Without much detail in your post I offer these refreshers: An engine needs AIR, FUEL, & SPARK. Quick checks, (for the often tempermental/sensative Rover works) if you like to try before posting more info would be: a) AIR - check wiring to Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) which is built in to your air flow tube between primary air filter and intake plenum. Be very careful to not touch the thin wire screen you will find once opening this section of air flow tube. The screen is the receptor for temp and airflow sensors that the BeCM (brain) uses to adjust the fuel to air ratio at the injector. Spring for a can of MAF sensor aerosol spray from your local auto supply. Usually about $10. Read and follow instruction on the can exactly. b) FUEL - Determine that you have fuel pump/pressure. Turn ignition one click short of cranking (position 2) and you should hear the hum of the in tank pump for 2-3 seconds stopping with a beep indicator from the dash area. You can also check for pressure at the fuel rail which is an aluminum tube that sits on top of the engine, above the valve covers on each side. On the passenger side fuel rail you should see a valve similar to a tire fill valve. With engine off and a heavy towel handy to absorb any fuel expelled, carefully depress the center needle of the valve just as you would to let air out of a tire. Keep yourself out of the line of fire, the squirt can go about two feet. If you have pressure. Repeat the fuel priming procedure a couple times to restore pressure. With engine off repeat the valve pressure check at fuel rail. If you have pressure again your pump is at least working. c) SPARK - you may need a second set of eyes or someone at the ignition for this one. Pull the wire and plug from a cylinder on the passenger side of engine, i suggest the #8 which is closest to firewall. with the plug attached to wire place the sparking end near a frame bolt, engine mount or other grounding point, secure it there with a clamp or clip, then have your helper crank the engine. Lights off helps, you should see the electric spark arcing on the ground point as the engine cranks. IMPORTANT-do not hold the ignition wire while cranking and crank just long enough to determine spark and no more. Hope this helps, it will get you started anyway.

dirty filter drop the pan and replace it.