20 Most Recent 2002 Land Rover Discovery Series II - Page 2 Questions & Answers

i have same probleme with my land rover, this trouble is intermitant wath can i do abs light traction control andhill descent if you have he ansher for me [email protected] thank you

Ok, you either have an expensive problem, or a very cheap one. And it all depends upon the number of lights on the dash.
If you have ABS and TC showing, then you may just have a diff-lock switch fault (and an intermittent H shaped amber light also which is the diff-lock indicator). This is a software issue with the SLABS ECU and is showing that due to diff-lock the ABS and TC are in a lower response setting. Later trucks don't have this problem (03 model year onwards) as the software was updated. The diff lock switch is about £12, and it's a bugger of a job. It can be done from underneath the vehicle (did mine this way) or from the cabin, and the switch is p/no PRC2911, and just unscrews. It's located just behind the diff-lock stud above where the front prop fits.
Your options are thus:
1) Remove the front prop. Work blind and try and change it by feel alone. Helps if you can clean the area off before too, don't want any rubbish falling in the box! Unplug & Undo the switch, IIRC it's a 12mm head, and a stubby spanner is the tool for the job. Remove, swap the lower nut from the old switch to the new one (important for the length) and put back in. Don't do up too tight, or it may shear off (as my friend did 2 days after I did mine! He kept tightening it...) Pop the connections on and the front prop and the fault should go away. You could also just disconnect the switch if you want. IIRC open circuit is no-diff lock anyway, but if that's not correct then make up a link with some spade connectors and link it out then.
2) Remove the centre console, drill the rivets and attack from above. Same tools needed, just you can see what you're doing.
I favoured Option 1. YMMV!

If however you have ABS, TC and Hill Descent (little picture of a truck going downhill) then you sadly have an ABS issue which suggests either Wheel Bearing, ABS Sensor Fault, or Shuttle valve. Best to get it to a dealer and on the computer for them to diagnose what exactly is wrong.

I assume the 'manual' you refer to is part of the Green M + S lights and not a manual transmission. If your vehicle is an auto transmission, your problem is possibly related to the XYZ switch on the left of the transmission housing. You cannot start the vehicle if the ECU thinks the vehicle is not in park or neutral, and the contacts in the XYZ switch provide the signal for the ECU to know this. Try putting the selection lever into P and then through the gears a couple of times. If the starter is turning then the xyz switch is not the prime starting problem. You are not getting fuel to the engine. This could be be a failed fuel pump, blocked fuel filter or the fuel pump inertia cut out on the engine firewall. This should give you some things to check before asking for the tow truck. Good luck.

Your problem is that now, the gasket glue is the only thing holding it . Use a SOFT hammer, rubber preferably, and tap the pan where it meets the engine. Once loosened, GENTLY pry it away from the engine , moving down and around the outside, using a wide flat screwdriver. It will drain fluid as soon as it starts to give, be ready for it.Leave two bolts, positioned on two adjacent corners in, loosely, so the entire pan doesn't fall away, spilling fluid everywhere. Good luck !

It could either be a switch or a fuse, The cheaper fix of course is the fuse,next would be the switch, the most expensive would be the motor

Sounds like Fuel or Fire is the problem. Check fuel pressure at the rail(s), needs to be minimum set point for your vehicle. (Autozone or similar can tell you the specifics) If that is good, then it is likely you have weak spark. 2002 says it is over 10 years (100K+ miles). If that is the case, and the Spark Plugs are original, then replace them all. Would not hurt to replace the wires too, but that can be put off as long as you do not damage them while replacing the plugs. Good luck.

IS YOUR VEHICLE A DIESEL ONE OR PETROL? IF IS A DIESEL ONE CHECK FOR ANY GLOW PLUG (S) BLOWN. IF IS PETROL CHECK FOR A FUEL PRESSURE PROBLEM,COLD START OR AND TIGHT VALVES.

Mr. White,for the Power Steering starting winning four things are happening. 1. not having Power steering fluid enough in the fluid can, Check it. 2. The Pressure and one way valve either is seized, blocked from any dirt, 3. The Power steering pump itself worn inside ( blades worn) or 4.any Dirt ( mud ) built up inside if the fluid never changed and makes narrow flow of fluid and dropped the flow pressure.

Check fuel pump, fuel pump relay, and also check inertia switch. In ertia switch is usually located inside the cabin on the driverside fire wall on most Ford products.

OTHER THAN A MECHANICAL PROBLEM THERE ARE 2 THINGS THAT KEEP YOUR CAR FROM RUNNING, 1 No Spark, 2 No fuel. To check fuel open the air intake and squirt a little fuel into the air intake if the car starts or at least fires you probably have a loss of fuel.. The spark problem, You need to find out if the spark plugs are firing.. if they are not firing the car will not start.. THEN YOU MUST FIND OUT WHY THERE IS NO FUEL OR NO SPARK, BUT FIRST Isolate the system THAT IS NOT functioning.

It sounds like there is a fault with the automatic transmission. you need to go to the dealer to plug in the tester and see what the problem is. All you can do is check the oil level, that is , if there is a dipstick and not a plug on the side of the transmission.

Hi. I assume that you already checked the thermostat valve. I believe that you have a beginning of head gasket problem or a small crack somewhere. The best test for head gasket, even being a time consuming test, is to remove all spark plugs, fill up the radiator, put one cylinder at top dead center, which means the cylinder is in explosion position, install a cylinder leak test hose attachment (from a cylinder leak tester that you can purchase a Harbor Freights) and connect a compressor hose. Observe if air bubbles comes from the radiator. Sometimes it takes longer to show up so be patience. I've had an Honda Civic that was taking over 5 minutes to shows bubbles. If it does, your head gasket is beginning to get bad. Good luck.

try to reset the computer manually..with the key on..disconnect the battery negative entirely.. then shut the key off.. reconnect the battery negative..turn the key to "on" position..wait a few seconds for the factory presets to go through cycle then try to start the car..

waterpump.

does it also clunk when you are driving along in 1st or 2nd gear and take your foot off the throttle?...maybe a unijoint.