20 Most Recent 2006 Suzuki Forenza - Page 7 Questions & Answers

if it is antifreeze your water pump is leaking and there's a recall on some of these from the Suzuki call dealer give Vin number to check they will replace free and new antifreeze and they will check for leaks free

sounds like oyur not getting enough spark check your battery first then your coil packs and plugs to make sure u are gettin the optumum spark

You must vacuum bleed it. You can buy the tool for about $40

you will have to adjust the position of the neutral switch so that it reads correctly when in neutral or park.

check the resister its the part the harness plugs into

i am not familiar with this model, but refer to the owners manual or a simple call to the dealer should solve the problem,

I have an 05 Suzuki Forenza, it was doing the same for me. I had to replace the tranny mount and my tranny lines were rusted. Haven\'t had the problem since. I have put $4000 into the car in the past 6 months. Suzuki sucks!!!

Suzuki should have stayed with just motorcycles. Anyway, You just had the oil changed. Check and see if they changed the filter also. They may have forgot or were just to lazy. Just a chance the oil filter is bad, I would replace it again(is the oil clean on the dipstick?). Add a higher viscosity oil. At 67,000 miles, you would have to drive dirt roads all the time, with no air filter to get sludge to clog the head ports. Which is slow drain of oil to the pan. The oil pump? well it could be, most likely not. I would say the oil sending unit is bad, but the knocking noise kind of throws that off. Knocking is bad, if it happens again, pull off and shut the engine down. One other thing to watch is the temperature gauge. getting really hot will cause knocking. Check coolant level and the thermostat.

the cost varies , by all locations on earth. as does LABOR.but that is LAST. first is the cause.it can be, the sendor , wires or guage.I think on this year, just wires and sender. are top reason.if you look close the engine can have up to 3 sendors for water temp.1 for ECU/PCM.1 for gauge.1 for A/C engine overheat and drop out.the answer is here.https://suzukipitstopplus.com/category/3-suzuki-service-manuals.aspx

double posted, backup one and read.

If it has the same engine and model #

these are computer codes. you may need to replace the computer

in the usa? be the first ever to post the country be the near first with engine size. all you posted is a body shell and no engine breather are on shells. if in usa/ , look up, see that hood sticker, for vacuum hoses it shows the PCV system (old school breather) post engine size . gas or diesel.

its busted. fix it do you want the list of 20 reasons? is it leaking is the fan belt missing or slipping is the radiator cap bad, missiing or loose (wait till cold) is the RAD actually full of 50% antifreeze? (cold checked only) http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-troubleshoot-an-overheating-engine.html google will find them all, every cause. http://asc-ind.com/cooling-system-information/common-causes-of-overheating/ or use physics?

1. the coolant will not circulate, or Rad tubes (in core) are clogged.
2. the Fans are dead. no air?, it will overheat, every time.
3. there are leaks. (causing low coolant and air pockets in engine)
4. there is steam, the engine head gasket failure deal.
5. late timing, due top cam belt slip, makes HUGE extra heat.
6. #5 can push a weak system over the edge (straw /camel deal)
7. The system fails to hold 14psi pressure due to bad cap or #3,4)

number 1 can be a bad pump , is it leaking green off its tip?

vast ways to overheat. do you want a list? got signs.? just the gauge or got steam... do TELL? if it really overheated, did the fans come on. did you read all the diagnostic steps on the FSM? (alldata.com) or at suzuki pit stop plus for 4 bucks? have you, tried to replace anything yet>? do you want to guess or TEST. one way is long and expensive , other is save money your call, most DYI , do the never done full cooling service, now. full flush and new thermostat. 6 year old thermostat are kind , END of LIFE now. signs: (rad id full of 50% antifreeze, look in rad not the overflow tank) COLD. 1: belt slips? to pump? makes noise or just slips? 2: fans never come on. 3: engine pings. (knocks or detonates) 4: steam or water spouting from RAD or side tank? 5: water in engine oil? or a/t trans? (dip stick end looks milky) 6: carbon dust in the AF , when looking on dead cold , rad cap off neck hole.. 7: guage lies, or surges. gauges do lie, or air in the block below STAT makes this happen, no sender or STAT can work in AIR POCKET. none. so did you really check the level cold at RAD cap off? 8: lost engine power? 9: try a new RAD cap yet, for 5bucks. (if the GASKET IS OK, IT'S OK) 10: if all the above works, Use any IR pyro heat gun meter, to see if all rad tubes, (hot) read the same, top and bottom if side flow rad? left and right,. each tube starts at about 180F and drops by up to 50F degrees. to 130F at the other end of tube if one tube is same temp end to end,it's clogged, if all that pans out. the pump is bad. like this one. http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/electrolysis1.jpg the gun http://www.fixkick.com/my-IR-GUN.gif for about 15bucks at Harbor Fright (pun) im sure i missed a test. but that happens as you proceed. as you gather evidence you will, do other test. or actions. diagnostic logic.

no engine stated no transmission stated. type and gear count. the transmission can have many solenoid, newer cars can have 1 or more. so which one? yours has 6. and are inside the transmission like 99.9% are. no symptoms stated, making help impossible. "CONTEXT"!!! you can read the manual like we do.. first. https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1066-2006-forenza-reno-service-manual.aspx here ill look yours up (me pretend in USA) bottom right see em?

Fig. 2.0L engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributorless ignition system is this what you wanted ?I hope it is and it helped you. Woody

give or take back yard mechanic 500.00 garage1500-2000

you sound like guy that works FSM free,? no books. why do that ,? (pain) i guess you get scan codes. and above is wrong. P0703. is it.? post the full codes, all of them all DTCs stored. then look them up in the FSM and what does it says. it tells you, to do more tests. to find true cause. my guess, you never said car drives prefect, the CEL glows, or the scan tools shows MIL active. right>? the hold is for ice. the hold prevents down shifts (dangerous) on ICE. with most feature of the TCM (tranny brain) lots of failures cross over. to shifting. lots. like engine overheated engine overloaded. engine speed, brakes on or off. cruise controls traction. and ABS. direction controls. (if present) so stop ignoring those codes and fix what it told you to fix fix the what is it, P0703... ??? the recall (sic) TSB TS-09-03129R summary:Suzuki vehicles: automatic transmission shift lever is loose in the shift gate and/or ignition key cannot be removed. The transmission gear shift lever does not hold firmly to the left of the shift gage as expected. and the 703, dont lie. it told you its fails and you ignored this fact. http://www.aboutautomobile.com/DTC/P0703 it's bad, replace or recalibrate the switch. and on newer cars the switch may need calibration after the replacement. owning a Chapter 11 car company car is a PITA. id sell it. i would and get a Toyota.

Chances are the problem is in the ignition switch. You might try electrical contact spray cleaner,most home depot or radio shack stores carry this.Give the connectors to the ignition "key" switch a good spraying.if possible detach the conector and spray as well.l dont know who is making these ignition switches now days but the PT cruiser made by chrysler as well as Honda cars are plagued with the same problems.give it a try,myseilf I re wired the air bag connection just to be sureI ran a new hot wire from the fuse box. good luck,Gary